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in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #39195
I have been using 125-grain Ace Standards since 2004. Over the past nine seasons, I’ve put them through some incredibly tough bone on big game animals ranging from whitetails to elk to moose (sans a few spine shots, all on the exit side). I have yet to so much as dub the tip of one of those heads, let alone actually damage one. If there’s a need for me to use a tougher head, I have yet to see it.
Prior to switching to Ace Standards, I shot Zwickey Eskimos and Deltas. I loved them, and they held up extremely well. Come to think of it, I never damaged one of them in an animal either. I shot the original Zephyrs for a while and liked them a lot. If I had to pick a broadhead I’d never used for the upcoming season, I suspect I’d go with the 125-grain Eclipse. They look extremely bomb proof. Regardless, there is certainly no shortage of excellent broadheads on the market these days.
in reply to: Favorite Traditional Web Searches #36986DWC,
You may want to also check out http://www.mytractorforum.com. I found a ton of good info there when I got my old John Deere 214.
Back on topic…there are also some good traditional archery / bowhunting pages on Facebook. If nothing else, I really enjoy looking at other people’s photos there.
in reply to: Favorite Traditional Web Searches #36846If you’re looking for excellent YouTube videos, I’d add Jimmy Blackmon’s to the list.
in reply to: Bow Tiller #34114Building out the strike plate will make the arrow act stiffer, not weaker. When you buld out the strike plate, the arrow must flex more (i.e. be weaker) to bend around the bow and fly straight. If the arrow is too stiff to flex around the bow properly, it is overspined. If your arrows are already overspined, building out your stirke plate will only make the problem worse.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf
in reply to: Target Panic #31703The only thing that worked for me was a clicker.
in reply to: what quivers do you prefer? #30006I prefer bow quivers. For the last several years I’ve mostly used a Great Northern Quick Connect, but the Bohning Kwikee is another of my favorites.
in reply to: from the home page #18733I apply a thin coat of WD40.
in reply to: Arrow Weight Question #15651Alex is absolutely correct about the gpp. Your current arrows should be somewhere between 8 and 9 gpp, which with a 26″ draw length, shouldn’t even begin to approach causing a problem. I’ve shot wood bows with that gpp at my 32″ draw length and never had a problem. Truth be known, with your success thus far, I wouldn’t change a thing.
in reply to: What's in a Name? #15162Mine is the result of a German farmer stepping off the boat in 1861 and deciding to change the spelling of his last name. He should have just put a “t” in there too. Everyone else does. 🙂
in reply to: Good for Illinois ?? #15080Let’s clear up one important point here. The reason why these operations are still in existence in Illinois is because of antis getting in the way of our state’s bowhunting organization several years ago. On the heels of CWD being discovered in Illinois, we could have easily (or rather, more easily than today) had a captive cervid shooting preserve ban. My understanding is there was a bill set to be introduced until an anti-trapping group decided to throw their two cents into the mix. The end result was a bill that would have, for all intents and purposes, ended trapping in this state. Apparently it removed the distinction between shooting an animal confined in a pen from one caught in a trap.
This isn’t a case of HSUS having to clean up trash that hunters refused to handle. This trash wouldn’t even exist today had their ilk stayed out of our way several years ago.
in reply to: All-wood bows: let's see 'em #11909Alex,
Is that the one Paul Brunner made?
in reply to: How many bows do you have? #11907I actually had to stop and think about this one. For the overwhelming majority of my shooting, I use the following two bows:
Hunting bow: TradTech Titan riser with Winex limbs. Pulls 56# @ 32” and sends a 500-grain arrow 200 fps.
Target bow: Spigarelli BB riser with SF Ultimate Carbon Pro limbs and a bunch of other stuff set up for IBO Recurve Unaided class. It pulls 44# @ 32” and shoots a 242-grain arrow 235 fps Please don’t ever try shooting an arrow that light with a bow not designed to handle it. I also use it for competitive paper shoots (since I’m too cheap to buy a second target rig), but it’s primarily a 3D setup.
And then we have the rest:
Chek-Mate Hunter II with two sets of limbs: 53# @ 32” and 67# @ 32”.
1960 Wilson Brothers TF, 42# @ 28”. I use it for small game hunting.
Thunderstick MOAB longbow. I think it pulls 53# @ 31”, but I don’t exactly remember. I hunted with it for part of one year, killed a deer and some small game with it, and it’s hung in my basement ever since. It’s a nice bow—extremely fast—but I’m more partial to recurves.
Root Game-Master, 45# @ 28”, mid-60s vintage, was my grandfather’s hunting bow. I’ve put several deer in the freezer with it too.
Root Pendulus Supreme, 35# @ 28”, mid-60s vintage, was my father’s target bow. My wife used to shoot it when she still shot a recurve. She won quite a few trophies with that bow, as did my father when he was young.
Root Brush-Master, 45# @ 28#, mid-60s vintage, was my father’s and great uncle’s hunting bow. I used it for bowfishing before finally retiring it several years ago.
Root Game-Master, 45# @ 28”, early 60s vintage. Bought it off eBay. My current bowfishing rig.
Two home-made recurves with a few different sets of limbs. I use one occasionally for small game, and the other I retired in 2006 after using it to take half a dozen deer, a hog, a moose, about a dozen grouse, and a bunch of squirrels between 2005 and 2006. I figure it doesn’t owe me anything else.
Two bamboo-backed osage longbows I made in 2001 (I think). I used to have three, but gave the best of the bunch to a fellow in Ohio. The other two I’ve used to take a few squirrels and a bunch of carp.
One rawhide-backed hickory longbow I made in 2000. I used it to kill a whitetail doe a few days after I tillered it and really haven’t shot it much since.
in reply to: Bare shaft practice #11614Two excellent tests for consistent form are bare shaft shooting at normal distance and fletched shafts at long distance. If more people imcorporated one or both of those routines into their practice, overall accuracy would greatly improve.
Well done, Alex.
in reply to: Traditional only arrows #56966Troy is correct; 300s will be far too stiff for 50# @ 28”. The Traditional Only shafts are the old Beman ICS Classics with a different label. I’ve been shooting Beman ICSs for over a decade and like them a lot. They’re extremely durable, consistent, and the price is good. I shoot a high performance recurve pulling 56# @ 32” with full length 340s and standard weight inserts with 125-grain heads. In order to get 300s tuned correctly with the same bow I need to put about 275 grains up front (did it once to test a few things).
Unlike some other manufacturers, Beman/Easton uses the actual spine deflection for their carbon shafts (Easton aluminum/carbon shafts notwithstanding). So a 300 will have a spine deflection of .300 measured at 28” centers with a 1.94# weight (which is different than the 26” centers and 2# weight method used for wood shafts). For your setup, I would suggest 400s if you want to play with extremely heavy heads, or 500s for tips in a normal weight range.
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