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in reply to: Homemade steel broadheads? #34189

Maybe but I have more time than money.

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in reply to: I might have my first Hunting Partner!!! #34187

So much for the weaker sex theory:shock:

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in reply to: Homemade steel broadheads? #33781

FUBAR wrote: I have made them from circular saw blades and from industrial bandsaw blades

Interesting. How well do they hold up? Any idea how hard they are? I read up a bit on making knives from them, but some folks say the cutting tips are the only “hardened” part.

What kind of finished weight did you end up with?

How did you go about making them?

Is that enough questions for ya?:D

Thanks.

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in reply to: I might have my first Hunting Partner!!! #32932

The ONLY downside to this, is now everything costs twice as much, There could be worse problems I suppose :D. Hang on to that one. My wife doesnt hunt, still love her. My brother found a woman that loves to hunt more than him, if thats possible.

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in reply to: Working with carbons for FOC #32716

OK made another one. My wife is starting to wonder if I still live in the house:D. This one came out at 282gr, so I am not gonna push my luck. it’s 2 /34″ long and fits between the top two in the previous pic.

So it took taking another inch off the arrow (now 29 1/4″) to get the right spine, and lo and behold, I moved the target to 20yds and the nock hits straight, not high any more, I am a happy camper…..

Now I just need to get my broadheads in so i can weigh the setup. I figure if their numbers are accurate (170gr head, 100gr insert) that when I glue them up, it ought to be real close to 180gr.

Looking at the good Dr’s chart, with 29 1/4″ arrows, and balance point is 5 1/2″ from back of head, that puts the calculated point 9 1/8″ from actual center. That puts it right at 31% EFOC. Also, without the feathers (yes I am aware it will change the above numbers, but not enough to bother me) it weighed 660gr, so it’s about near perfect.

I also, tried a couple different setups on my compound (old Mathews Q2XL) and it shows weak spine, which is perfect, since due to the Whisker Biscuit arrow rest I use, I have a few inches I can play with. That way I can use the same broadhead on either bow.

Even with all the “extra stored energy” of the wheel bow I have had some shots on whitetail deer, that I felt penetration was less than stellar, with the previous setup. This ought to put it into a whole new category. In addition, even the wheel bow seems quieter.

I have never been a fan of the super lightweight arrows, even for compounds. Once it was explained to me, by a dealer, that the only useful purpose they serve is to quicken the needed repairs to bows, I decided to stick with moderate weight arrows to get the best of trajectory and hitting power. With the wheel bow, and sights, etc, that become pointless. I can set the sights for actual drop, and the rest, like shooting traditional, is up to me. I need to know the yardage or get closer. Closer is always better.

For now, I will go on the experience of others far better and more knowledgeable than me, and figure that when I get the shot, and make it good, the arrow will do it’s part, probably better than the one that loosed it.

I still need to get back in the shop, little at a time, and make a dozen or so inserts, and about 6 or more field points, so using the bow, this season is not very likely, especially, for this zone. The archery only time is long gone, and we are dead in the middle of gun season. VERY early seasons here in zone A of CA. Frustrating , but what do ya do? So for now it’s me and the ’06.

Sure I could most likely order them, but then I wouldn’t get any more badly needed experience with my lathe.

Once I get this all done, I will surely have to look at trying to make my own quality broadheads. might be a pipe dream, but no dreams, no advancement, right?

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in reply to: Working with carbons for FOC #32099

Well I am getting closer! There is either an inconsistency in the gr per inch of the steel, or in the machinist. Maybe a little of both.

Here is a pic of the three I have made so far.

from top to bottom,

388gr 3 1/4″

240gr 2 1/4″

175gr 1 1/4″

I also took the rasp to the shelf of the bow, to put a radius in the front and back, so see if that helps with this cursed nock high issue. Nothing else has cured it.

I sprayed it over with some clear poly, and will rework the way the shelf and pad contact the arrow.

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in reply to: Arrow test details #32090

I guess good ideas refuse to go away! I wasn’t aware of those arrows, but I must say, I am not surprised. The forefathers of modern archery were full of ideas, and made remarkable strides even though the technology wasn’t there to help some idea reach their full potential.

A CNC machine could spit these things out in about 45 seconds each.

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in reply to: the on going talk about bareshaft tuning #31946

J.Wesbrock wrote: Wexbow,

When you have that long of a draw length, trimming arrows isn’t much of an option. For me, finding arrow to accomidate a 32″ draw length can be tricky.

Why would he trim arrows, if they are too stiff spine already? He needs to add more weight to the points to soften the spine.

Taterman

I was going to ask here if anyone thought a flat shelf could be the culprit. I think I will try that on mine. Less contact is better anyway, as far as I am concerned.

This is the first bow I have had the nock high problem with.

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in reply to: Homemade steel broadheads? #31938

I did the search, and although some interesting articles came up, none seemed to mention home made broadheads. I googled it too, and everything I saw came up with guys using typical galvanized mild steel sheet metal.

I will keep looking, but seems like it shouldn’t be THAT hard. I realize it’s not something everyone can do, but seems like SOMEONE ought to have been able to figure it out.

The search goes on.:D

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in reply to: Arrow test details #31699

I was playing around the other day with wood arrows and steel insert. I chucked the arrow in my lathe and bored a 1/8″ dia hole about 3″ deep. Then I made up a field point with a 1/8″ rod on the back, where the 3/4″ section that screws into an insert, would normally be. My version of Woody Weights I suppose.

What I envision as ideal is a point like that except instead of a point, it would be drilled an tapped as an insert. It would also be super to have an “arrow shaft diameter” sleve as part of this, and slightly trim the shaft to allow the sleeve to cover it. That would give a greater FOC and make a much stronger wood arrow as well. If I can ever figure out how to add the sleeve to this as a one piece unit, I will build one. The tip of the shaft is NOT tapered, by the way.

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in reply to: Working with carbons for FOC #31664

Well i used my 3″ guesstimate to make another field point with a goal weight of 270 or close to it. It seems 3″ is a tad too much. It actually came out to 388gr, juuussssttt a little high :D. This evening I will make another one. I want to keep the heavy one as is, cause ya never know. Besides I can always take weight off, but its a real pain to add weight back on.

So it continues on for another chapter.

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in reply to: Which carbons? #26478

Ok went by the new Dicks sporting goods yesterday, was curious about what broadheads they might have. Sad. Never seen so many expandable broads in my life. I have never been a fan of those, even when shooting my compound. Just a gimmick, IMHO.

Anyway, they had a sale on arrows, so I got a dozen Gold Tips, Devastator or something like that. 8.2 GPI, the 55/70. Got a dozen for $45 pplus tax, just under 49 out the door. I figure even if they don’t work with the recurve, they should work with the compound.

Also checked and I have some nails that just fit, so I can make some heavy inserts for them too:D.

Just wish I could figure out how to make a decent screw in broadheads, then I could save some real $$$. I see Dr. Eds are machined, now if I only had a friend close by with a CNC machine….:D. Seriously seems some types shouldn’t be super hard to make. I can figure out the body, but the insert section is the tough part.

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in reply to: A slap on the wrist… #20938

OUCH!

Yea that brace height is way too low. good advice above.

Most likely the bow will shoot better, and quieter when it’s correct, also.

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in reply to: Giving it a try #16618

J.Wesbrock wrote: Handirifle,

A lot of folks rave about tje Harbor Freoght saw, bit I’m not sure which blade they’re using. I don’t think you could go wrong with that saw. If I didn’t have the Dremel setup, I’d get one for myself.

Hey, I had an old carbon shaft laying around, one that had a boogered up end, so I dug out the HF saw with it’s std steel, metal cutting blade, the one it comes with.

I tried it on carbon and aluminum. Cut them slicker than snot!

Nice smooth edges, no burrs on either. One nice thing about the HF saw, it comes with a screw type clamp, that is grooved in the center allowing for perfectly square cuts. The arrow can be held stationary, while the saw moves in a perpendicular motion.

When on sale, they are around $16.

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in reply to: Giving it a try #14271

Has anyone ever used the metal cutting blade setup on the Harbor Freight cutoff saw? I am talking about the little $15 orange colored saw they sell.

I have that and the dremel, but the clamping system and straight down cut of the cutoff saw is preferred.

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