[David Coulter]

in reply to: Today discouraged at first, encouraged later #26536

I think it’s a great idea to have this all put together in a place that’s easy to find. Great stuff, thanks! dwc

[David Coulter]

in reply to: tuned arrows results #23774

Some years ago I had to retake college algebra. First day, I took my homework home and got stuck in about 10 minutes. I returned to the school and in search of the professor I discovered the room where the upper level math students, who were all studying to become teachers, did their homework. That’s where I did my homework from then on.
I’m also lucky to have a good friend close by, but this site has been a terrific resource. thanks, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: tuned arrows results #23737

Troy,
Thanks for the note. I’ll stick to using the paper fastened to the foam block.
Sooooo far, I’ve had little frustration. I am asking plenty of questions to make sure I’m on the right track, but so far so good. The dremel is cutting the shafts without splintering and the tuning is going alright. That said…. I’m really just getting started, so there might be a few bumps ahead. thanks, dwc

[David Coulter]

in reply to: tuned arrows results #23141

Ah, another question. This looks like paper tuning, where the paper is held a distance from whatever the arrow actually sticks into, so the arrow passes completely through the paper. I’m been using a piece of white paper, with the vertical line, but held against the foam block, which ends up with the arrow/bare shaft sticking out of the paper.
Can you explain the difference and advantages of either?
thanks, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: 35-pound longbow proves just enough… #23094

That is a beautiful photo. You should take it to a local printer and have some greeting cards made with it. Enjoy the fruits of your photography, too.

[David Coulter]

in reply to: PM problems #22618

Thanks for checking it out for us. If there’s any difficulty in the future, I’ll let you know. best, dwc

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Went looking for Bear, but found Grouse… #21926

That’s excellent. And, grouse don’t charge when they’re wounded…

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Questions about my bareshaft tuning today. #21901

That’s encouraging. I requested the free offer from True Flight for small feathers and they sent me, not only the 2 inchers, but some 3s and 4s. Wow, those 2 inchers are little!

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Questions about my bareshaft tuning today. #21690

Thanks, Troy. I fletched one today, leaving a little space. It’s raining here so I’ll have to wait a day or so, but I’ll keep you posted.
I fletched with 4 inch shields, since I ran out of 5 inchers, so I’ll see how that works. thanks, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: PM problems #21405

I have the same problem when sending messages, but have been receiving. thanks, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Arrow Question #21282

You’ll enjoy this site a lot. I’ve been tuned in here for a couple years now and have learned so much. It’s help shape the way I do a lot of things with my bows and arrows. Good luck, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Arrow Question #20687

I’m shifting to carbons, but I was shooting 2016s in both my 45# Wasp recurve and 46# Stewart LSS longbow with 175 and 205 grain heads, respectively. From my perspective that would put 2016s too light for a 55# bow, but try to find one on the cheap and give it a whirl.

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Arrow Spinner #20616

Thanks. A fun project on a rainy day. It’ll come in handy when I’m mounting my broadheads. Best, d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Ok, Fine…….bareshafting help. #18609

So, I’m bouncing between a few threads on bare shaft tuning and want to ask a question again for clarification. I’m good at beating a dead horse…
So, we get the bare shaft to fly to center then compare to a fletched arrow. I’m assuming that the fletched arrow has been trimmed the same as the bare shaft, correct?
Also, if we see the bare shaft fly to a different impact than the fleched arrow, we adjust the bare shaft and also adjust the fletched arrow?
I glued in my insert, so I’m taking it off the south end of the pole. If I need to adjust the fletched arrow, I’ll be refletching. No a problem if that’s the way it needs to be done, but I’ll skip the extra work if it is not necessary.
I pushed a 50 grain brass insert into the first shaft just to check fit and I couldn’t get the dang thing out. So I shot it into the block and, as you would expect, the insert and point now live inside the block…
Thanks for all of your help. d

[David Coulter]

in reply to: Questions about my bareshaft tuning today. #18541

Thanks to all the information posted here, I’m starting to tune some new shafts. I have Beaman ICS Bowhunter 400s, 50 grain brass inserts and 200 grain tips. I’m shooting a 46# Leon Stewart Slammer Special.
I shot a few full length shafts into a Black Hole foam block with a piece of white paper with a vertical line down the middle and a dot in the center of the line. The first shots were heading about 4 o’clock 10 inches out. I did several shots then put the bow away. Next day, I did a few more and they went to the same place, so I started trimming.
I’m using a Dremel with a standard cutoff blade, turning the shaft into the tool, then squaring up by butting the shaft into the face of the blade. Seems to work just fine.
It’s fun to watch the strikes inch closer to the center line as I take off an inch, then a quarter inch at a time. I got to the center line and retired the bow for a fresh start tomorrow or the next. It pays to go slow, as I don’t think I’ve taken off more than a couple of inches to move the strikes 10 inches.
So, I’m bouncing between a few threads on bare shaft tuning and want to ask a question again for clarification. I’m good at beating a dead horse…
So, we get the bare shaft to fly to center then compare to a fletched arrow. I’m assuming that the fletched arrow has been trimmed the same as the bare shaft, correct?
Also, if we see the bare shaft fly to a different impact than the fleched arrow, we adjust the bare shaft and also make the same adjustment to the fletched arrow?
I glued in my insert, so I’m taking it off the south end of the pole. If I need to adjust the fletched arrow, I’ll be refletching. Not a problem if that’s the way it needs to be done, but I’ll skip the extra work if it is not necessary.
I pushed a 50 grain brass insert into the first shaft just to check fit and I couldn’t get the dang thing out. So I shot it into the block and, as you would expect, that insert and point now live inside the block…
Thanks for all of your help. d

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