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    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      So here are some pics of my arrow shoot today. All shots are made with the same arrow set up, shooting verticle at 5 yes and then at 10 yds. Shots at 5yds. All shot center and kicked up an d to the right. All shots at 10 yds. Were perfect holes without mock kick but groups were to the left and a bit high. So what are your suggestions. At 20 and 30 yds they are hitting their Target.

      attached file
    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      Here’s a better pic. Excuse the mistakes, I’m typing on a cell phone.

      attached file
    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      Final pic…. What say you?

      attached file
    • Ed Ashby
      Member
      Post count: 816

      What are we looking at? Are these bare shaft shots? If all shots shown are bare shaft, move out to a longer range and see where they are hitting. It looks like you are showing a strong spine, assuming you’re right handed. A few shots at longer range will tell for certain.

      Ed

    • Br549
      Post count: 15

      Good morning from Florida, I would say by looking at the last pic, there are a couple of issues at play. The first is a low nocking point, and the second would be a weak shaft or maybe a clearance problem. I would start with the nocking point first by adjusting it up 1/16″ at a time until the low tear is gone. After that, I would probably try increasing my brace height a twist or two at a time and see if that gets rid of the tear to the left. I would try that before I made any adjustments to my arrow weight, but that’s just me. Good luck-Chris

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      I agree with the Dr.

      The holes show slightly stiff. Try the longer distance shots. If that still shows stiff, try dropping the nocking point on the string a tiny bit. Lowering the nocking point will allow some correction. Otherwise, you will need to add point weight.

      Troy

    • Br549
      Post count: 15

      Morning Doc, you may be right, I may just be looking at them wrong. So if it is, I would do the exact opposite of what I said the first post. Chris:lol: I guess that’s what happens when your blind in one eye, and can’t see out the other!

    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: What are we looking at?
      Ed

      Sorry I took so long to reply. All these shots are from my fletched arrows. I just shot from 2 distances and figured out that at 5yds my arrow is still in paradox, explaining why they all have a high and to the right nock kick. At 10 yards the same arrows are paper tuning pretty nicely but high and to the left, without the nock kick. So I’ll be starting over again next week with the same arrow set up at full length and trimming down. I finally think I have an idea of what I’m looking for. Would you agree that I trimmed a little to much of my arrow ED? I figured at 5yds id have the same arrow flight as at 10yds.

    • David CoulterDavid Coulter
      Member
      Post count: 2261

      Ah, another question. This looks like paper tuning, where the paper is held a distance from whatever the arrow actually sticks into, so the arrow passes completely through the paper. I’m been using a piece of white paper, with the vertical line, but held against the foam block, which ends up with the arrow/bare shaft sticking out of the paper.
      Can you explain the difference and advantages of either?
      thanks, d

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      DWC,

      I’ll srugg my shoulders and say any type of tuning is better than just pickng up and arrow and shooting.

      Personally, I’ve never been a fan of paper tuning. Thats just me.

      CS said those shots were done with a fletched arrow. In my book that is somewhat of a lost cause. Simply because correction is started by the fletching the instance the nock leaves the string. Bareshaft tune a shaft as close as possible then fletch. Then at 10yds I’d almost bet you the holes would look like they were done with a bullet rather than an arrow.

      I know the ones of you that are new to bareshaft tuning are very flustered. I’ve been in your boots and know what your going through. Thats why I say don’t try to learn this in just afew hours. The more you do it the better at it you will become.

      Troy

    • Crystalshrimp
      Post count: 125

      Troy Breeding wrote: DWC,

      CS said those shots were done with a fletched arrow. In my book that is somewhat of a lost cause.
      Troy

      I thought I had baretuned these correctly prior to fletching and shooting. But at the time, I’ll admit i did not know what I was looking for. These pics were the results of poor bareshaft tuning. All my little bullet hole shots were a tad high and to the left. So if im reading right, I cut off a bit to much shaft and caused my arrow to be to stiff. I already ordered a few more arrows from the shop and will bareshaft tune the same arrows with a keen eye this time. So Fare that is 4 arrows down and 3 more to go. Hopefully ill get it right this time. Here’s my plan Troy. (set up some butcher paper with a line down the middle and a sticker in the center for reference, something to aim at. Shoot some bare shafts till i get around 2 inches to the right of my center line, then i will check my elevation and tune my string nock accordingly. ONCE my groups look a bit right of the center line and dead-on my aiming point, I’ll will then fletch and compare results) Goal is to have these pretty bullet holes @ 10 yds out to about 25 yds. That is about all i feel comfortable shooting at this time. If the results arent good then it looks like ill start over.

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      CS,

      Might I suggest you adjust the nocking point while your bringing that shaft to the 2″ space rather than doing it afterwards. If your shaft is kicking up or down while doing the tuning it needs to be corrected at that point. Just do it one step at a time. If your seeing a tail high and left kick adjust the nocking point then shoot some more before cutting the shaft. It’s kind of like the building addage of measure twice cut once.

      Also, never make two adjustments at one time.

      Another thing to remember is, if in doubt shoot some more before doing anything.

      I ususlly shoot 10 to 15 shots before even considering any adjustment. If I’m still not sure, I’ll shoot even more.

      Troy

    • David CoulterDavid Coulter
      Member
      Post count: 2261

      Troy,
      Thanks for the note. I’ll stick to using the paper fastened to the foam block.
      Sooooo far, I’ve had little frustration. I am asking plenty of questions to make sure I’m on the right track, but so far so good. The dremel is cutting the shafts without splintering and the tuning is going alright. That said…. I’m really just getting started, so there might be a few bumps ahead. thanks, dwc

    • Troy Breeding
      Post count: 994

      When I started shooting a bow many moons ago I had no one to ask. Later on I found and older gentleman that was willing to help. I was always asking question and apologizing for asking so many.

      He would always reply “son the only dumb question is the one your too lazy to ask”.

      When Mr. James passed I felt like I had lost my best friend. From that point on I was left with trial and error.

      Troy

    • David CoulterDavid Coulter
      Member
      Post count: 2261

      Some years ago I had to retake college algebra. First day, I took my homework home and got stuck in about 10 minutes. I returned to the school and in search of the professor I discovered the room where the upper level math students, who were all studying to become teachers, did their homework. That’s where I did my homework from then on.
      I’m also lucky to have a good friend close by, but this site has been a terrific resource. thanks, d

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