[William Warren]

in reply to: arrows "porpoising" #11789

Knocking point could be too low or too high. Should be roughly 1/8″ above center. Also check that your brace height is correct for your bow.

[William Warren]

in reply to: classified ad ?? #11785

I also sold a bow. For some it might be a one or two time deal. Maybe folks are hanging on to their bows waiting for better times.

[William Warren]

in reply to: stringing a longbow #11409

I’ll take a stab at this one….
If it was made recently or commercially made it should have the AMO written on it somewhere. Otherwise depending on the the brace height (avg 6″ – 7″)the string could be anywhere from 4″ to 6″ shorter than the bow’s overall length.

[William Warren]

in reply to: Got some work to do….. #10787

Finally, after a bunch of shooting, I’m rewarded with a nice first group this afternoon from about 15 yards. 20 yards is about my personal limit for deer but if conditions were right I might take a 25 yd shot but I need more shooting for that.

Just need it to cool down a little more…….

[William Warren]

in reply to: I lost my first deer this weekend… #10767

Todd,
Sorry to hear of your lost deer. Brings back my own memories and feelings. From your description and my own experience, a deer that humps up is hit too far back. This will be a fatal hit, however, it will take some time. The best advice if this happens is to let the deer lay perhaps until the next day unless weather would force you to take up the trail sooner. I learned this the hard way and beleive me, it changed the way I look at the shots I take or don’t take. Good advice from Steve, mull it over, learn from it and then let it go.
Duncan

[William Warren]

in reply to: Wood Arrows & Removing Nocks: Lesson Learned #9641

Call me crazy, but I would work some wood glue under that sliver, tie it down, let it dry and put on a new knock. Of course, if you don’t feel comfortable doing that then don’t do it.
Otherwise, I would save that shaft for scrap. If I break one at the point I just cut a piece from the donor shaft and add it to the broken one the same way you would add footing.

[William Warren]

in reply to: October is closing-in. #8287

Check! and double check!
Thank you George for thinking of us all.
Our season began today with cool air and overcast skies, my kind of day.
Good luck to All!

[William Warren]

in reply to: predator bows #61766

LimbLover wrote:
All three of the predator takedowns I’ve seen shot were silenced on the limbs and on the strings and they all made that sound. My Samick Phantom was a quieter bow. You are right though – it could be a braceheight thing.

FYI – two of them were being shot 3-finger under. Predator doesn’t tiller specially for 3-finger under shooters as an option. I have a feeling this has something to do with it.

Of course what sounds quiet to my old ears might sound like a thunk to your young ears.:D And we have to consider that your position while others were shooting may give you a different perspective on the sounds coming from the bow. It helps to get some one to listen while you shoot to see if it is really quiet or not.

[William Warren]

in reply to: predator bows #61763

I have never weighed it, but its quite a bit heavier than any of my other bows of which two are take downs and one of those is 2″ longer. I like the looks and style of the black widow that has a long bow handle. Ever shoot one of those?

Never shot a Widow.

[William Warren]

in reply to: What type of bow and arrow will you use this year #61753

Starting out with my 50# Predator, cedar shafts with 125 gr Zwickey 2 blades. If successful with that, I may switch over to my 48# Hickory selfbow with 5/16 hickory shafts and 100 gr Zwickey 2 blades w/bleeders. Bow quivers on both bows.

[William Warren]

in reply to: Shipping a collectable #60485

Good Ole USPS. If it fits, it ships! 😯

[William Warren]

in reply to: Worm Holes #60453

Cody wrote: Just split my new Hickory log open and the wood is filled with the small worm holes all through it. My question is how bad does the affect the bow?? I imagine that its weakens it quiet a lot but this is my first try at cutting my own log. So keep going or cut it up for firewood before I waste a lot of time??

A hole back to belly can be dealt with as Clay showed us in his build along last year. A hole crossing side to side will result in a failure. Same thing happened to me a few years ago. I made the bow anyway to see what would happen. It broke while on the tiller board. Just slowly gave way. Nothing spectacular.
It is important to remove the bark from Hickory and bring it indoors to a shop or closet to keep the beetles out of it. I think the eggs may be laid on the bark but not sure. I harvest my wood in winter, get the bark off, and bring it inside the shed. I’ve had no problems there.

[William Warren]

in reply to: broadheads #60435

I’ve used Bear razorheads, the original Snuffer and Zwickey 2 blade and 2 blade with bleeders. They are all good blades. I have killed deer with all of them. My thoughts on the 2 or 3 blade choice is I would only use 3 or more blades with bows 55# and up but I would use a 2 blade with any weight bow. Just my 2 cents.

For broadhead removal, always use a vise. heat the head and most times gases built up from the heating glue will expel the shaft from the head. Some you might have pull out after heating.

[William Warren]

in reply to: Snake skins on my recurve limbs #60408

Patrick wrote: [quote=Steve Graf]Do it yourself, with snake skins you harvested yourself. It’s not hard. If you buy the skins, you can get a pair of rattlers for $50.00.

Put the word out to friends that you want dead copperheads. I get 1 or 2 a year that way. But this year I haven’s seen any myself or gotten that call.

If you want someone else to do it, I hear Morrison Archery will do it. But it costs…

Copperhead skins look awesome! I corresponded with Bob Morrison earlier this year about this very thing. He charges $115.

Yikes! I’m going snake hunting.

[William Warren]

in reply to: predator bows #60402

LimbLover wrote: Every predator bow I have seen was a really smooth drawing, fast shooting bow, but the takedowns are PLANKS. By that, I mean that they are really heavy. Lots of wood.

I also notice that they need quite a bit of silencing. They make a really weird THUD sound when you shoot them. At least the take-down models do.

But it’s a pretty plank and no heavier than my Hoyt T/D. I like to think of it as strength training for my right arm. 😀
Show me a bow that does’nt twang or plunk with nothing in place to silence it. Home made wool silencers or home made fleece “tarantula” silencers coupled with leather string groove pads made mine super quiet. And of course a properly adjusted brace height.
Out of curiosity, how much does your bow weigh? My Predator weighs 3 lbs with a full quiver and set up to shoot.

[Author]

Posts