Home Forums Bows and Equipment arrows "porpoising"

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    • dlbarr
      Post count: 22

      OK, so I’m building a new batch of arrows and it’s been awhile since I did this. My recurve draw weight is 55# @ 28″ but my draw length is actually somewhere 26″-27″…closer to 26″. I bought cedar shafts from a reputable supplier, 50-55# spine weight. I’m getting some stable arrow flight but not always.

      Is it OK to get arrows at a heavier spine weight than your draw weight? Like 55-60# for my set up? Anything else that could be causing eratic arrow flight?

      Thanks.

    • William Warren
      Member
      Post count: 1384

      Knocking point could be too low or too high. Should be roughly 1/8″ above center. Also check that your brace height is correct for your bow.

    • dlbarr
      Post count: 22

      Yeah, my nock is right there, about 1/8″ above center. My brace height is supposed to be 7-3/4 to 8″ and I have it right at 8″. Can’t figure this out…

    • John Carter
      Post count: 71

      I draw 28 on the dot,I use wood arrows that match my bow wheight and try to shoot 125g heads,,,45lb @28=45-50.
      At your draw length I would use a 45-50 spine for a 55lb @28 bow myself,,,have done in fact.
      I know that goes against a lot of popular opinion,,but it was how I was taught an it’s always worked for me.
      For extra FOC,,,tapper the shaft.

      Plus that nocking point hight as well.

      John.

    • dlbarr
      Post count: 22

      John Carter wrote:
      For extra FOC,,,tapper the shaft.

      Sorry, you’ll have to help me here….FOC? Don’t know what that is. Thanks for your input.

    • Patrick
      Member
      Post count: 1148

      Usually porpoising is corrected by moving your nocking point. That’s my recommendation. There’s always more to a setup than just hard numbers. Sometimes you just have to experiment.

    • William Warren
      Member
      Post count: 1384

      I’m not completely up on FOC either but I do understand that a heaver tip can possibly solve the problem. It’s part of that FOC formula.
      Are you shooting off the shelf or using a rest? Please describe.
      As John mentioned it could be your arrow spine. Sometimes you can get away with a stiffer spine but I usually stick with the spine weight that matches my bow weight. If your draw is shorter than the 28″ standard you might have to try some different arrows as John suggests until you find the right one. Is there a shop nearby that will let you try some arrows or an archery club?

    • dlbarr
      Post count: 22

      Duncan, I’m shooting off the shelf. The arrows I’ve had prior to this batch were built from shafts over 20 yrs old…I spent quite awhile away from archery…when I got going again, I built those from supplies I’d been carting around for a couple decades. Those arrows were bought from 3 rivers but I don’t know what spine weight they were. They did shoot fine however. After I used those up, I ordered the current batch from Rose City. So I guess I’ll have to do some comparison shooting with other weights. Don’t know of a club locally, but will nose around and see if I can find one.

      BTW, I considered getting some tapered shafts from Wapiti Archery down in OR. But I already had these ordered when I found Wapiti. Thanks for the input.

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