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  • David Petersen
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      Welcome to tradbow.com, bowhunter81. I just returned from a trip north including a few hours exploring the Oregon Trail above Farson in WY. While there were metal trade points, those in the photo above don’t look like any I’ve seen and appear to be “home made.” And what would be the most plentiful source of scrap metal scattered in the wake of the white invasion of the West? I’d say both barrel hoops and wagon-wheel rims … plus maybe the odd lost or discarded shovel and other tools. I’d be interested to know what sorts of tools the Indians used to cut, shape and sharpen this scrap into broadheads, and where they got them.

      David Petersen
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        Justin — I won’t enter the nutritional discussion, but will say that LeRue wrote some good and informed books but much of his info was second hand … from true researchers like Geist. In my books, and while I liked LeRue’s work, there is no comparison so far as knowledge between the two, with Val Geist way on top, in another whole class in fact. And too, another top-end bio friend of mine is fond of saying “Bergmann’s rule isn’t a very good rule.” Canids are a classic example of where it fails, with the farthest north species being the tiny Arctic fox. IMHO, it makes sense in lots of cases but leaves a lot of room to differ as well. About diet–which must include naturally occurring minerals in the soil and thus forage, when we’re talking about cervids–I can comment re N. American elk “subspecies” insofar as Geist and other respected elk experts feel certain that if you took a sample population of Yellowstone elk and plopped them down in central CA, and took another sample of Tule’s elk from CA and put them in CO, in a few generations the Tule would be big as Yellowstone and the Yellowstone dwarfed to Tule size. Which is to say that nutrition is a major player in size and can’t be ruled out. It’s all fun.

        David Petersen
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          I went throuhg an ABS Ashby phase and killed elk slick with ’em. But then so did I with Brown Bear, Tusker Concord, Tuffhead and others. Back when I used the ABS it came only in screw-in, so no way to increase weight with an adapter as you can with the Tuffhead. It was also very hard and the edges chipped on test shots through fresh elk scapula, though very minor. I used to say the BB was the best single-bevel head for the money because it was basically an ABS design (which, like the Tuffhead, is basically a Steel Force design but with much cleaner ferrule) but not so hard and much cheaper. But in the end I can only repeat what I said before here–that right now IMHO the Tuffhead is best and better than the ABS even if price isn’t considered (though the ABS is superb), and the redesigned Grizzly now promises to be the best single-bevel for the money. One thing to consider (among a million other things) is that the thicker heads–ABS, BB, Tuffhead, Steel Force) have a wider bevel shelf which provides more torque and bone-splitting power than does thinner blades like the Grizzly. This all of course is simply one man’s–not opinion, but in my somewhat extensive testing and elking experience. There are SO many excellent double-bevel heads available today, it gets really complicated.

          David Petersen
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            Hiya Alex, and welcome here. Yes, you can buy DIY for elk in most CO units, esp. on the West Slope, which I would recommend over the Front Range but maybe I’m biased. A bit over $500 for either sex elk, or half that for a cow tag. While I can’t think of any books on DIY elking, per se, there are lots of good books and articles on elk hunting, and TBM has over the years run at least a few DIY articles, which I’m sure Robin, our beloved Webmother, will soon provide links to here. Otherwise, it’s just camping and hunting. My first advice is always the same: talk to the FS and DOW folks in any area you’re considering hunting in, to find out where you can go to get away from the damned ATVs. Even a short backpack in to camp can make a huge difference in your experience and hunting luck. Later in the month is more pleasant and productive than early. Enjoy, Dave

            David Petersen
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              Fallguy — IMHO there is no broadhead currently available that compares to the Tuffhead. I am curious about the new Grizzlies and posted this thread to let folks know about them primarily as a “public service” because they promise to be a superior head at a bargain price, and lots of us need all the bargains we can find. But I’m sure I’ll be sticking with the Tuffhead … again, IMHO. Dave

              David Petersen
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                Hammer — You’re a hoot, as always. That’s why I always pack a bunny grenade.:D

                David Petersen
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                  in reply to: Evening dog walk #52272

                  Hiram — I’m sitting in Bondurant, WY, just south of Jackson Hole, before heading into the park tomorrow in hopes of seeing grizzly and/or wolf kill elk calves (an old hobby), in the home of an old friend who grew up on a WY sheep ranch and she agrees with Kirk, as do my observations and many talks with biologists … domestic sheep pretty much put an end to all things wild, except predators, and the sheep herders take care of that. Right now this place is overrun with Uinta ground squirrels because the fed trappers came in and killed all the coyotes off the adjacent public land last winter to “clear the way” for grazing this summer.

                  David Petersen
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                    Prowler — A bunny is a lot harder to hit than a grizzly! Congratulations.

                    David Petersen
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                      in reply to: SBD bowstrings? #44016

                      Fellers — I use the standard 8-strand SBD string and the center serving fits most arrow nocks perfectly. For recurves you can order the servings below the end loops with a special cushioning wrap (couple bucks extra, best I recall) that prevents string slap and also reduces string shock to the limbs. That’s what I did for the K-Mag.

                      David Petersen
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                        in reply to: Evening dog walk #43162

                        Brennan– No, they are very fancy high-bred horses in fact, pastured on a ranch across the valley from us. I’ve seen this for at least 30 years, if not often, with elk getting in with horses and even cows. If the horses were the least aggressive they would easily run the elk off, but they don’t seem to know the elk aren’t white-butted horses. You’ll also hear plenty of true stories about rutting bulls approaching people on horseback (and more than a few get killed for this mistake), apparently thinking the loud hoof strikes and thumps are other elk. You never know what animals are likely to get along well under favorable circumstances …

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                        David Petersen
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                          Seldom– your avatar photo makes you look a lot like Ed Abbey! And your name sounds vaguely familiar. Small world filled with coincidence, I guess. 😛 Even the old blue truck in the background sure resembles the one Ed and I used to cruise around the LaSals above Moab in. Like this July 4, 1987 …

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                          David Petersen
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                            Cigars and tequila shooters!

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                            David Petersen
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                              in reply to: SBD bowstrings? #42894

                              M — Yes. I have SBD on all of my bows including the K-Mag, for quite a while now. Flawless, so far as I can tell. However, I would carefully inspect the limbs and nocks and tips for any hairline cracks, etc., and use a FF-type string only on perfect bows. Mine is a ’68 model.

                              Stretching update: These strings are advertised not to stretch, but they do stretch. Just not so much or for so long as most other materials. Even steel cable will stretch some, because it’s twisted and the twists tighten under pressure, increasing length. It’s hard to get too excited about something as simple as a bowstring, but these are the best I’ve ever used.

                              David Petersen
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                                Post count: 2749
                                in reply to: Wood and FOC #35774

                                Kirk — Yes, you are right. The shaft is 29.5″ Sitka spruce, with 4×2″ fletching and a 300grn Tuffhead glue-on. Best I recall it came in about 21.5% FOC. I don’t think it can get much higher due to spine restrictions. I’m shooting a 53# longbow and the shafts are 85# spine. I believe I can shoot through elk just fine with that setup and plan to try and prove it this Sept. But a heavier bow would push the spine requirements beyond the limits of all but the heaviest wood species, and you also want the lightest wood you can find, so that’s the pinch. My personal bottom line is that yes, if you try hard enough you can get just barely into the EFOC category with woods, but for serious EFOC and UEFOC carbon is the only way to go. I shoot both, depending on mood. Also remember that 650 grains “minimum heavy bone threshhold” has priority over FOC. Get that and a good two-blade head and a bow with respectable poundage and speed and you’ll do fine. Years ago when I first started down the Ashby road of personal experimentation, I shot completely through a bull and the next year a cow, using the exact same arrow both times: 740+ grains of hickory with a wimpy 125 double-bevel Wolverine head. The next year I hit a bull in the shoulder with the same set-up and the head broke in half about halfway from the point and bounced out of the elk. Of course the Wolverine at that time was a single leaf of steel all the way to the tip and should never have been on the market for dummies like me to try and use on elk. That’s another advantage of the current generation of heavier single-bevel heads: they are thick and the steel is hard and they’re darn near industructable. Sorry to get long-winded …

                                David Petersen
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                                  in reply to: new to archery too #34563

                                  Hi GBlue and welcome to tradbow.com, the friendliest hunting site in the known universe. I saw the same thing Joe mentions — your arm is high. It also appears that you may be torquing the string sideways at full draw, which could be a result of the high arm. So check those aspect of your form first. Beyond that it could be a release problem … we all go through phases where we just get sloppy. And too, there’s bow tuning. Since you’re new, do you have anyone who knows stickbow set-up to check it out? Brace height, string nock position, and matching arrow to bow all can mess you up. Since you were shooting OK and now are not, it could be that the string has stretched and the brace height is now too low. In order to get consistent accuracy with a stickbow there are certain elements that function basically like front and rear sights on a gun. Those settings have to be checked once in a while for consistency. I’m sure you’ll get lots more and better advice here soon enough. You’ll get it worked out, no doubt. A great backyard hobby. I would shoot even if I didn’t hunt. Dave

                                Viewing 15 posts - 1,186 through 1,200 (of 2,568 total)