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in reply to: SE Idaho Shoot! #59316
Wahoo, you got any pics of Smithy showing his face? We now know what his wife and tent look like, and many of his thousands if knives, but in his long and glorious history here he acts like he’s on the lamb and refuses to show his mug. Surely he can’t be THAT ugly!
Or maybe he can? 😛
Wish I could have been there, to steal that pup if nothing else. Is it American, English, or Welsh springer?
in reply to: SE Idaho Shoot! #59195Is that Rio for sale? The one I’ve got in all but wore out and not near so pretty. 😆
in reply to: FOC, Tieing the threads together #58924Troy, while Woody Weights are great for adding weight up front and perhaps the only way to get EFOC with wood shafts, my limited testing taught me not to trust them as metal-to-metal glue links are relatively weak and adding more length and weight to the tip is in itself a weakening function; that is, a 3″ long piece of metal will be weaker on impact with an angled blow than will one half that length, even without the glue joint. I’m not at all to doubt the excellent and important work you’re doing on extending FOC to the logical max, I have to wonder if it doesn’t erode a major Ashby element to the bottom line of what we all want, which is a mechanically reliable arrow system that holds together under any possible impact situation, namely angled shots into heavy bone. Only way I’d personally trust a WW for hunting would be to braze the metal pieces together … or maybe JB Weld; I haven’t tried that. Personally I’ll take 20% FOC and an indestructible arrow-head system over double that for an even slightly weaker setup. Wonder what the good Dr. has to say on this point?
That’s a lot of shooting, Dave. I used to be that way and in the process blew out my left shoulder and had to drop a whopping 10 pounds in draw weight. But that turned out to be a left-handed blessing since it put me on the road to heavy arrows, etc. I really don’t think the number of arrows we shoot in practice has any direct bearing on consistent accuracy and at times can work against it. Fewer arrows, each shot with deliberate intent, I believe is better. But then, shooting arrows is fun and if you have an urge to do it and it doesn’t harm your body or lead to sloppy form, why not? I have so many aches and pains I am forced to be judicious about how much I shoot … but when there’s something special, like shooting with other people or at one of those on-screen live-action targets, it’s easy to get carried away. I believe all in all, when it’s possible that stump shooting provides both the best practice and the best pacing … a shot or two, then some walking, then more shooting, rather than just whipping out a quiver full one after another. IMHO
in reply to: Trail cam time again #57816Yes, it’s a spring pool, about three feet across and a few inches deep with clear drinkable water, the best “bear bait” in summer as they love to “swim” on warm days. I usually have the cam closer so that you can see the water and better detail on the animals but moved it back after having it pulled down repeatedly–apparently the tree I had it on was a favorite climber for the cub in the pics or another. Next time I go back there I’ll move it forward again. The blond bear on the log is scary skinny for this time of year and still wearing last winter’s long hair … I hope it’s OK. Ironically, while I was up there most recently, gone a couple of hours and had the regular camera with me, my wife had a big bear in the “yard” and was able to watch it foraging around for 10 minutes and could have had some great pics if she’d had the camera. Murphy’s law!
I use a Covert camera that cost about $100 a few years ago. I much prefer the smaller cams. This one holds 8 AA batteries and if I use lithium (the only way to go!) batteries they last all year. So far as all the camera choices, I go with Occam’s razor wisdom: use the simplest unit that has the features you want.
in reply to: question about eye dominance #57806Good to have you join us, Dave. I agree with Arne right down the line. If you are shooting well, keep at it. I am left handed (primarily, a wee bit ambidextrous) and right-eyed and have always shot everything right-handed. I can’t even imagine trying to draw a bow left-handed … I’d have to start with a 20# kid’s bow. 😆 But others seem to have no problem switching.
in reply to: Found these today #57193Ralph — Surely you don’t mean to claim that you have rules in Texas! 😛 That’s downright un-American! Seriously, that hole reminds me of many I saw on one of the very rare occasions when I went squirrel hunting with my workaholic father (all we killed was a rattlesnake who had committed no sin greater than being a rattlesnake). As we walked down the bed of a mostly dry creek with reddish sandstone bottom–rock shelf and small drop, over and over–most of the shelves had a few such holes in them, maybe not quote so big as yours, and neither the old man nor I had a clue and were trying to think of geological causes. Youth is wasted on the young! I later read somewhere that these circular stone holes were used to grind acorns and other hard nuts and that they were place in creek bottoms so that the shallow water could wash over and help to–what’s the word?–wash out the toxic taste. Clever folks, those ancients. I wonder where we lost our way?
Skinner– I use 4×3″ and love them. I bought a Little Chopper from 3Rivers, which are available in various feather patterns, for about $25, and chop my own from full feathers. If you do much fletching you’ll pay for the chopper right away. Plus, every little thing you can do for yourself is a satisfaction in itself.
in reply to: Heat gun glue for arrows? #56693Mike– selfnocks it is! Splined with osage for more strength, wrapped with sinew and (to be) fletched with wild turkey feathers.
in reply to: a few bucks #56687Nice bucks, Shane, and nice work on the video show! Guess I should revisit my cam’s instruction manual and try some video, though I’m so technically stunted I’d likely screw it up. Thanks for sharing.
in reply to: Trail cam time again #56677Taylor, that’s a great scene you captured!
Here are a few more that didn’t load the first time around:
in reply to: Heat gun glue for arrows? #54522Mike, I’ve used Duco for years. It always works for nocks because you’re dealing with bare wood. Where it fails is when applied over some or even many finishes, so I no longer use it for fletchings on wood arrows though it’s fine on carbons. At least in my experience …
in reply to: High FOC Vs. Speed #53847I think you have a superb setup for elk, moose, big bears, etc., but you’re over-arrowed for those little guys. I would consider dropping back to around 650 total weight, as much as possible up front. A real easy fix, or starting point, is to drop to a 225 TH or a 190 Meathead and reduce the weight of the screw-in adapter while you’re at it. I think you can get steel adapters down to at least 75 if not less. While there is no such thing as overkill with arrows, as Ed likes to remind us, there is such a thing as over-arrowing for smaller big game when it unnecessarily slows you down to the point you may miss shots due to jumpy speedy critters. On the other hand, I tried reducing arrow weight for the little AZ Coues whitetails and practiced with the lighter arrows all summer. Yet when the shot ops came I consistently shot over. So I reverted to one bow and one arrow for everything, since I don’t seem at all adaptable. But others are so it’s a personal thing.
in reply to: shaft sleeve fit problem with Tuffheads #53386Joe, put on your magnifying glasses. 😆 The sleeve is touching the back of the broadhead, snug together. There is a bit of brown camo on the sleeve that could appear as wood.
Yep, I reckon the solution is to sleeve the hunting and target arrows separately so that all have a good fit. These are just 2″ sleeves and Ed recommends at least 4″ to best prevent breakage. I tried that and just didn’t like the way it looked or felt when the back of the sleeves “bumps” over the shelf pad when drawing. For some reason these shorter ones don’t bother me at all. And the shaft that broke last year was only about an inch behind the head. Meanwhile, while I’m convinced that a good tight sinew wrap with Titebond3 makes a great protective splint, it tends to go on too thick and unevenly (because you have to splice together so many short pieces of sinew) with sharp little ththread ends sticking out. I will use that for the arrows for the selfbow and the aluminum shafting for the Elkheart arrows. Of course I could simply pull out my carbons and be done with it, but then I’d miss all the fun of pre-season messing around with gear.
in reply to: Oil rub arrow finish? #52759Ralph, if the rocks down there in TX are as hard as the average Texan’s head … no wonder? :P:lol:
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