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  • David Petersen
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      Post count: 2749

      Nuss — I’ll bet others are like me … basically ignorant of the details. If they’re teaching with compounds — well that becomes a very complex and difficult topic! And safe to bet they are. So please fill us in on some details, provide a website, educate us so we can kick it around. Thanks! dave

      David Petersen
      Member
        Post count: 2749
        in reply to: Trapezoidal Limbs #29772

        Thanks, Gregg. Always good to get info from the experienced horses’ mouth. As a shade tree bowyer you’d think the advantages of weight reduction toward limb tips would have occurred to me. A signal it’s been too long since I built one. Dave

        David Petersen
        Member
          Post count: 2749
          in reply to: Trapezoidal Limbs #29299

          I know that Shrew “traps” their longbow limbs as a way to do fine-tune tillering. The design may have other advantages I’m unaware of, but it’s done for practical rather than aesthetical reasons, though I like the way it looks. I’ll invite Gregg Coffey, who builds Shrew bows, to come on here and explain further. Patrick, you never seem to run out of excellent questions: a Zen archer’s “beginner’s mind.” 8)

          David Petersen
          Member
            Post count: 2749

            And let’s not forget about USED! The free classified ads here could benefit us all with a lot more activity, coming and going.

            David Petersen
            Member
              Post count: 2749

              Konrad, check out the Great Northern Field Bow. http://www.gnbco.com. At $295 I don’t know of a better bang for the bucks. It’s a no-frills yet attractive deflex-reflex of ash or bamboo with osage riser and brown glass limbs. I just checked the catalog and they currently have several bows in stock from 31 to 45lbs, which is as heavy as this bow comes. I shot Field Bows at Kalamazoo a couple of years ago and was impressed all around that they could produce such a sweet bow for the price. If anyone else is making an equivalent bow for the bucks, I’d love to know about it.

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              David Petersen
              Member
                Post count: 2749

                Duncan — I have a friend who seals his selfbows with bee’s wax, just as you suggest. My question is — do you rub it on from a “cold stick,” or does it work better to heat it before applying? And doesn’t it give as much shine as a dip finish would? Thanks, dave

                David Petersen
                Member
                  Post count: 2749

                  Konrad — need more info. Like, what draw-weight? There are some amazing bargains in lighter-draw bows you won’t find in heavier sticks. Is this a serious question because you are shopping, or just curious what folks think? dave

                  David Petersen
                  Member
                    Post count: 2749
                    in reply to: Bow choice help #26075

                    Jarhead 🙂 —

                    We all sing the praises of our favorite custom bows, and only rarely do we hear anyone complain of performance or service these days (not counting factory bows, but true small-shop customs). Since there are so many good bows out there, the only way you can accurately decide is to shoot as many as possible and see what feels best for you. I know that’s easier said than done, since so few of us have trad archery shops nearby that stock several different brands. But if you can attend your local or state trad group shoots, that’s the place to meet lots of new bows, many of which you’ll never have heard of. And given your side I don’t think mid-50s draw weight is at all too heavy. Have fund, dave (Semper Fi)

                    David Petersen
                    Member
                      Post count: 2749

                      Voodoo — now THAT’s dedication! 8):D

                      David Petersen
                      Member
                        Post count: 2749

                        Well said, M???? 🙄 The only Teflon coated heads I’m aware of are Eclipse. I’ve toured the factory and seen the excellence in every step for myself. Even so, it’s just a coating and it does wear off fairly rapidly with use and resharpening. To avoid “wear off” it would have to be solid Teflon. But to be fair, I do all my practice shooting with broadheads into a dirt bank, which wears fast no only on the coating but the heads as well. Ashby’s tests have demonstrated that a good Teflon coating improves penetration, though not to the extent of other arrow-system elements. The new STOS heads (out a year or so now) have “carbon” coating but I’m yet to see any reliable reports on how it performs vs. Teflon, via either penetration or wear-off. Since I oil all my broadheads and oil the foam in my bowquiver before every season, I don’t worry about it one way or another. But a valid question, Patrick, deserving a serious response. Whether I know anything or not remains in doubt — but I am serious! 😆 dave

                        David Petersen
                        Member
                          Post count: 2749

                          Clay — I know a guy who has tried burnishing and waxing, and both work to keep out the moisture that causes not only the fuzziness you mention but swelling and warping. Only downsides are that both add to an arrow’s shine. But then so do most finishes (which I deal with by lightly buffing with steel wool to remove the shine but leave the protective finish). Only guys I know, including me, who regularly don’t finish their homemade arrows and when they make ’em for stumping or small game, both of which lead to fast arrow turn-around, so to speak.

                          David Petersen
                          Member
                            Post count: 2749
                            in reply to: javalina outfit #16453

                            Turtle — there have been some great posts here in the past, maybe under Big Game forum, on how to do your own public lands pig hunt. I mean, they’re running wild all over souther AZ and NM and certainly no more challenging to research and hunt than feral hogs, which for the most part and private-lands pests that require paying for access. Either way, best luck. dp

                            David Petersen
                            Member
                              Post count: 2749
                              in reply to: Ghilli suit #16449

                              Seriously and no put-down intended … are you guys sitting out in the middle of fields or deserts with no shade or natural cover, that you feel compelled to resort to such obviously and admittedly bothersome human-bush costumes? I do not say this to feel superior, believe me, but merely because it is how it is, to wit: I wear a mix of old camo garb, dark-colored pants and dark plaid shirts and jackets, while gradually replacing all remaining camo with more traditional garb … not because it’s more traditional but because I can find steal-deals on used wool pants and plaid shirts in thrift stores, wear the same stuff I wear hunting without embarrassment if I need to stop in town for something, but mostly because IT WORKS. Sit in deep shade with good cover behind you (low cover in front is a bonus but unnecessary), sit still as possible always and don’t even blink when game is close, and in general practice good old-fashioned woodsmanship and you don’t NEED no Ghillie suit, high-end camo, Quadruple Bull blind or any of the “modern hunting” rest. Also it puts the hunting-skill onus on us rather than on the stuff we can buy (or make), saves us lots of money we can use for tags and trips, and lets us travel through the woods light and easy. Again, my intent is not to hijack this totally valid thread or to suggest “my way or the highway.” It’s just that every time these gear topics come up I’m left to plead longingly: We don’t need more gear. We need more personal committment to hunting hard and hunting smart!” Or so he says. dp

                              David Petersen
                              Member
                                Post count: 2749
                                in reply to: Making an IF #10801

                                Kegan — it seems that few of us here have experience with this issue. Please share your results and educate us. 🙂 dave

                                David Petersen
                                Member
                                  Post count: 2749
                                  in reply to: arrows #10797

                                  Hunter1 — Either buy or borrow some 145 and 160 heads, either field points or broadheads, no matter. Try those and go up even another step in weight if you can. In short, experiment a bit and shoot the heaviest heads that fly well with those shafts, assuming you prefer to stick with the same shafts. A wide assortment of head weights is an inexpensive and essential part of every serious trad archer/bowhunter’s kit. Locally, the only sporting goods shop that handles bows sells only compound arrow-launchers and doesn’t even offer heads over 125. So you may have to get from a friend or mail-order. If you do go up in weight it’s a good time to switch to 2-blades with harder steel (50 rockwell at least). Experimentation with various arrow set-ups is great fun for me and I have little patience for those who say “if what you have works, why bother with looking for something better.” But then, this old fart has little patience with anything! As your signature quote says: “He who dares, wins.” 😛 dave

                                Viewing 15 posts - 2,221 through 2,235 (of 2,570 total)