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  • David Petersen
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      Don — You are right considering scent in the breeze. I am referring to residual scent left as we walk along, and I know absolutely I can control it with rubber boots and elk pee, and that the waterproofing spray I once used on leather/nylon boots almost turned a herd of elk inside out in panic when they crossed the point in the game trail where I crossed half an hour before. It’s residual scent I’m concerned with here.

      Bruce — a $20 bottle of whisky? Either you drink cheap rotgut or it’s a mightly small bottle. Cool

      David Petersen
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        Post count: 2749
        in reply to: Is it possible ? #46472

        You will almost certainly be required to buy an outfitter’s license — which are limited in some states — and provide insurance, etc. I’d check these things out before dreaming further. Best luck.

        David Petersen
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          Post count: 2749

          Well thanks. Alas, I’ve never been much of a word-pumper. More like a drip [sic] … takes me forever and twice that long when I can find a season open somewhere.

          David Petersen
          Member
            Post count: 2749

            Newbreed — Welcome to tradbow.com. Like I keep telling folks, most of us are consumed with hunting right now so don’t think nobody cares if you’re not flooded with answers right away. I just returned from a week gone hunting myself. Brother, there are countless longbows and recurves you can pull that far with absolutely no problem. It’s hardly a specialty item. For example, a 56″ Shrew would accommodate you. Your budget will mean you either have to buy a factory bow — dont’! — or shop used for a good custom bow, which I recommend. Others will chime in, I trust, with specific suggestions for good models for a long draw, Keith Chastain specializes in them for example, but I think more helpful will be hints on how to shop for good used bows. I’d start with the classifieds here and (if necessary Wink) on other trad bowhunting sites. If you get serious about a particular model, google the maker and call him to ask about draw lengths. That will get you started. Best luck in your hunt. Dave

            David Petersen
            Member
              Post count: 2749

              Man, I’m getting deja vu on this one. Anyhow I agree with Smithhammer. Heavier heads make an arrow fly better and penetrate better and kill better. I’m currently shooting the 225 Tuffhead with 125 steel adapter and 100 grain brass insert on CE 250 shafts for a total arrow weight of 691. This much weight and FOC is not necessary for whitetails but in my books is necessary for clean kills on elk every time, and as we Ashby disciples like to say, There is no such thing as overkill in an arrow set-up. I am currently awaiting the forthcoming 300-grain Tuffhead. I find that my arrow trajectory, thus accuracy out to 20 yards or so, doesn’t change until I get closer to 800 grains. I’d shoot for a total weight around 650 with 20% or better FOC and a good single-bevel two-blade and you’ll kill whitetails like clockwork and also be ready for elk … unless you’re trying to do it with less than 50 pounds draw weight. My 2 scents. dp

              David Petersen
              Member
                Post count: 2749

                For the answer to why some folks can consistently shoot well in practice, yet consistently miss when hunting, we need look no farther than to the sister thread “I got the shakes.” Of course it’s not necessary to actually be shaking. Rather, we “get shaken” and lose our composure and concentration. I personally believe the most common reason for this form of buck fever is fear, either conscious or subconscious, that if we don’t shoot “right now” the animal will disappear and we’ll have missed the opportunity and we won’t see any more game and hate ourselves forever for being “over cautious.” I know that’s been my problem when I’ve done a post-mortem on my own hunting misses. And it’s a tough one to overcome because sometimes it’s true that it will be your only chance that day. Bottom line is that it’s loss of concentration and form due to extreme pressure, most or all of which we put on ourselves, leading to rushed shots. I agree with suggestions above to practice on blank targets, picking a different spot each time. And I believe in doing all we can to run through a last-moment mental checklist of the basics before releasing: full draw, solid anchor, pick a spot, follow through. The other primary reason for missing is taking shots too far. No comment.In any event I’ll leave it to you guys to find cures for all the trad bowhunting world’s problems while I’m away for a week — gone whitetail hunting!

                David Petersen
                Member
                  Post count: 2749

                  Hi Partner and welcome to tradbow.com. There are lots of folks here who can points you in good directions, though most are busy hunting right now so be patient. For starters, definitely buy The Bowyer’s Bible, VI. Best money you will ever spend on the path to bowyerhood. I’ve made quite a few osage board bows backed with bamboo, most of them deflex-reflex. All you need is a 2×6 for a glue-up form. It’s a good combo. Dave

                  David Petersen
                  Member
                    Post count: 2749

                    You’re a clever crastsman, Duncan. Thanks for sharing in such detail. Dave

                    David Petersen
                    Member
                      Post count: 2749

                      I’m in agreement with all above, except …

                      I don’t make enough arrows to justify a multi-arrow jig, and rather enjoy the slow, catch-as-can process of applying one feather at a time, waiting half an hour, applying another, etc. It seems more enjoyable to space out the activity this way, among other things I’m doing. It’s a good thing to do when there’s no rush. I use a cheap plastic Bohning jig, have for eons, and it has performed flawlessly.

                      You’ll also need a tapering tool — an inexpensive device like a pencil sharpener that puts the proper taper on each end of the shaft. And other than glue, that’s about it. What you save on your first dozen arrows, if you don’t go in too deep for starters, will pay for the equipment.

                      Overall, I suggest you google Dave Doran at Archery Past in Bend, OR, then give him a call. Dave is the best and will listen to your questions and suggest alternatives without trying to sell you anything. Doug fir for heavy arrows (Surewood) and Sitka spruce for lighter arrows seem to be the choices these days of many experienced arrowsmiths. Determining spine is the only really challenging part. As light as your bow is, finding the right shafts will be a bit more difficult. Indeed, the Bowyer’s Bible has a big section on arrow making, far more info than you’ll need, but I don’t recall which volume — maybe VI? Enjoy. Dave

                      David Petersen
                      Member
                        Post count: 2749
                        in reply to: I got the shakes! #29970

                        Long ago, when I was shooting heavier and cheaper bows (factory rather than custom, which tend(ed) to stack), and the first time I bugled in a bull, I was so shook that I couldn’t come to full draw–just felt suddenly really weak in the arms. Had to let down with the bull standing broadside within range, drooling and staring at me, and try again. Second time I made it, and the shot was good if not perfect, but my next bow went down a few pounds in draw weight. I’ve heard many experienced hunters proclaim, “If I ever fail to get buck fever when close to a big game animal, I’ll quit hunting.” Oh well. I rarely get “bucked out” any more and don’t miss it one whit! The fact that you got the shakes on a doe I find oddly … uplifting, like getting the most on a personal level from every special moment of life and to hell with that other kind of buck fever — antler addiction. I’ve often wondered, if we were not allowed ever to show or talk about the antlers we take from bucks and bulls we kill, how would that affect our passion for collecting them? I think I’m pretty neutral on the issue, but it’s a good question to kick around anyhow. Meanwhile, let’s enjoy every shake we can honestly come by. Cool

                        David Petersen
                        Member
                          Post count: 2749

                          If all the above good options should fail, just get it off as good as possible and reposition the shaft in your fletching jig so that the old glue line remnants lie between the new feathers. This presumes, of course, that you’re not one of those pathetic neurotic perfection addicts. Wink

                          David Petersen
                          Member
                            Post count: 2749

                            I have the same compliment, and same questions, as Duncan. And any idea the hardness of the steel?

                            David Petersen
                            Member
                              Post count: 2749

                              tzolk — I haven’t a clue. But someone here surely will. And welcome! Dave

                              David Petersen
                              Member
                                Post count: 2749

                                Gorgeous, Steve! Let me know if you decide to market those. dp

                                David Petersen
                                Member
                                  Post count: 2749
                                  in reply to: PSE Longbow? #25630

                                  Skinner — I think the problem isn’t that it was a longbow, but that it was a factory bow, IMHO. I’ll spend my money on a used custom bow, long or recurve, any time before spending the same or less on a factory bow. In the old days when I couldn’t afford anything else and there weren’t many customs around, I had factory recurves and every one stacked, was noisy and just disappointing. Again, in my experience and IMHO.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 1,486 through 1,500 (of 2,570 total)