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in reply to: Selway slide on bow quiver #141580
Hi Ty
Welcome to the forum and ditto webmoms comments. The problem really shows up using carbon arrows, as you might imagine as they are the thinnest shaft. I usually get the smaller size .
Yes on pushing the broadheads deeper. More protection less wobble — as you’ve discovered.
Scout aka Ray
Richard
I do the same thing, if I am carrying a heavier bino while actively hunting —
I sometimes use the across the chest carry – set up lower – or tuck it inside a hunting shirt– to keep it out of the way while coming to full draw . Depends on size of binos off course.
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Longbow FOC wood & carbon set up for deer #141447Hi Drew
Good to hear from you. Looks like you are pretty well set for fall hunting adventures. Switching from a compound to trad longbow is a tough learning curve, but it sounds like you’ve sorted it out well. I have owned /used hill style longbows in my past – classic way to go ( Stephen will be proud). Currently I shoot RD ( short) longbows – haha. A razor sharp broadhead from a finely tuned arrow is always what we want, more foc is good . This is especially true at close range ( less paradox better penetration). Your hunting style sounds made to order for tradbow. Closer is better – most of the time. I actually practice slooow smooth draw, so as to lessen spooking critters at these ranges.
I am not sure which arrow is going to be used with which bow but they sound excellent. I shoot in a similar weight class ( bows). I only have one bow using a wooden hunting arrow, for it I had to go up in spine ( from where you are) to get good tuned flight with the tuffhead (Tuffhead/ Meathead) are what I currently hunt with also). I am shooting almost the same gold tip set up you are for 2 of my bows and it works fine ( deer / javelina).
When you are successful- give us a full report.
Scout aka Ray
Looks like Vortex is the hands down choice among members. They have become a popular Marque.
I like the idea of the 10x monocular for the western archer ( or anywhere for that matter ) especially the way R2 is using it, less bulk than binos and less obtrusive, but still allows checking interesting things at longer ranges.
Scout aka Ray
Yes on lighter weight glass – I currently use a 9×32 Pentax for wandering around stalking binos – they live in my truck. I found them on a birding site ( yrs ago), I highly recommend visiting and checking out their bino reviews. Last month’s tradbow had an excellent primer on glass ( 3cs of good glass). As I get older eyes I find the need to look thru the binos outside with glasses on. Although most companies products accommodate prescription glass wearers – some are better than others.
Out here in the West, I do a lot of glassing at long range. It is hard to beat the high end euro* binos/ spotting scopes for this, especially in low light. I have Swarovski , Zeiss, leica, 10 – 15x binos [ I also use leupold(12x) haha – they are not cheap anymore either]. I am not rich, I picked them up over my life ( traded/ used / new). The intermediate to higher priced companies ( Vortex- Nikon- leupold etc) are starting to challenge this – having glass that is realistically comparable, at a better price point. Imho. Buy the best quality, lightest glass you can afford. My first good hunting bino was a 9×50 Bausch and lomb 1942 Buships ( Navy) beautiful optically but heavy. Just some other thoughts ( ramblings ?) from a different part of the country.
However the older I get the less I like to haul heavyweights ( literally and figuratively) around the mountains, till I start glassing — then I am glad I brought them –
* in the olden times these binos had the best warranty ( they would fix them for free and didn’t care if you were the one who purchased them .
PS
I am thinking about trying the miniatures again – they are definitely easier to carry and keep out of the way when shooting ( good for the woods and the final stalk especially) . In the past you could only find good ones at the pricy end ( and they had their limitations)- i am going to look around at what’s available these days —
Scout aka Ray
I have only listened to a couple, but will have to try the ones you mentioned, since this form of comm is the latest “happening”. Being of the hearing challenged I find talk radio more difficult to deal with – but got to keep moving forward –. Thanks for the heads up David.
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Arrow build help needed #141030David
I found the same thing to work best . I built stumping arrows out of carbon w/ collars and they hold up very well. Sounds like you are ready for the fall! I shoot R/D long bows ( actually short ones- centaur and shrew) also . Starting to ramp up my shooting for the fall –
Good luck ( Beuna Suerte) to all this coming season —
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Arrow build help needed #141011David
I am shooting a 68 – 70 spine tapered cedar shaft 29″, with a 225 tuffhead attached ( 31.75 shaft with head ) 3 5″ shield fletch. 658 grs total weight – shoots good out of my 53lb shrew.
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Arrow set-up suggestions? #141008Hi David
Yes, on starting at the head and working back —
Sounds like you got your arrows the way you want them and flying true. I Havn’t picked up any new bows, and I am happy with my current set up – for the moment anyway.
Depending on the bow – I am running meatheads / tuffhead up front in a 675 -720gr arrow ( axis / gold tip )28+ foc. Wanted above the bone threshold. Shoot fine out of my bows to 25yds ( my max).
Scout aka Ray
David
I have only heard good things about the vortex product lines . The binos I have looked thru are very clear. Happy viewing! Excellent choice for the woods. These days i have to check and make sure the bino is easy to use with glasses. Most of the better ones are.
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Arrow build help needed #140991Outstanding, glad to help -have fun shooting them
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Arrow build help needed #140936Hi Kit
Did you start at this length of shaft ?
If it is just a little bit Nock high right – try adjusting your nock ( lower) point and ( lowering ) brace height slightly — this can handle minor adjustments.
Yes, I saw you were a southpaw
Scout aka Ray
in reply to: Fletch-tite ??? #140842Richard
I use the Bohning premium feather fetching tape. Basically 2 sided tape on a roll, put it on a feather, pull off the backing, place it on the shaft, put a dab of glue fore and aft and your done. I have some practice shafts that the feathers are almost worn off, but they are still stuck on the shaft. Takes s little knack to get started but it is pretty simple and not as messy.
Scout aka Ray
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