[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Bow Building 101 – Osage Selfbow Part 1 #38918

Here’s the next one. Y’all may want to grab a bag of popcorn cause this one’s a bit longer.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Bow Building 101 – Osage Selfbow Part 1 #32907

If anything I cover in this series doesn’t make sense, or needs more explanation, let me know. I want to refine these as much as possible so tell me where the flaws are. Do I spend too much time on something, not enough, etc. Is there something else I need to show, or at another angle? anything.

ch

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Calling All Boyers #17792

Dennis wrote: the tiller from less than 1/8″ to 3/16″. Now I’m having a heck of a time setting up my nocking point.

so you’re saying that the upper limb tiller was ~1/8″ greater than the bottom, and now you’ve changed it to 3/16″???

What do you mean by having a hard time setting up your nock point? What’s the arrow doing?

I’m not sure how upping the posi tiller by 1/16 will affect your nock point, but if you need to, start over, and start high.

ch

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: hunting for finished osage bow cheap #15547

David Petersen wrote: it’s not “will they break” but “when,”

Dave, I must respectfully disagree. A well-made bow will last a lifetime, whether made of wood or glass…. As long as it’s not mistreated. A well made, but mistreated, bow will not. Mistreatment means different things for wood than it does for glass. Leaving strung for instance. Leaving stung though, won’t cause a wood bow to break, just loose cast by increasing string follow. Personally, I never worry about a bow breaking once it makes it through the initial “breaking in” period. I’ve seen numerous mahogany colored osage selfbows that shoot as well today as 20 plus years ago when they were made.

So rest easy on that bow of yours, it ain’t gonna break – at least not before you and I do. And, if for some reason it proves me wrong, I know where you might be able to find another one.

ch

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: In need of assistance #15527

try the USFWS. They usually have some pretty good stats on hunting. I’d imagin bowhunting as well.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: It's getting CLOSE! #11544

What unit is your tag for? I hunted the river bottom down river from Twin Bridges off the SF a few years ago. Lot’s of birds, and not too many hunters if you walk away from the road a little ways.

Up here in north Idaho, we’ve got birds comming out our ears. Last year I probably called in 25 plus toms. I was having so much fun calling and filming that I never even took my bow along. Just followed my partner around with a video camera. Got some good footage, but no good shots. This year, we’ll rethink our run and gun stratagy. Probably have to consider a brushblind or something if we’re actually going to get a shot on film. Could have killed a mound of birds with a shotgun, but then, what fun would that be..

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Help with camcorder purchase #51815

30 fps (actualy 29.97) is standard frame rate for many cameras. You will be able to find one that will shoot 24,30, and 60fps with good quality and at a reasonable price. Anything above 60 and the quality is going to drop sharply.

If you shoot at 60 fps with a high shutter speed, you should be able to stop motion effectivly.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Primitive Spot'n'stalk #12597

blacktail wrote: i have to agree with others GREAT video…and the hunt was sweet…my questions are about the gear you used…what kind of bow, arrows and head did you use…thanks so much for sharing….john

Bow – pacific yew english longbow

heads – Magnus I think

Quiver – bobcat, plains style

outfit – braintan buckskin breeches, homemade muslin shirt died in walnut hulls, buffalo hide (commercialy tanned) mocs.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Primitive Spot'n'stalk #12590

Thanks guys, and nice critique. The two vids I’ve posted were put together several years ago. Since then I’ve got a much nicer camera and tripod as well as refined my techniques. Anyhow I’ll have a website up soon with more, and better quality, short films.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Strap-on tree steps #60361

I used to have a few but I don’t know where they ended up. I used them a bit if I needed an extra step or two, but I’d think they’d be pretty difficult to set up for climbing much more than that. The ones I had used a hollow poly rope that came was threaded back through itself and cinched down like a finger trap (if that makes any sense). Anyway, hanging on the side of a tree 12′ up and trying to hook a strap around the trunk and hooked back to the step takes some dextarity, and a few choice words.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: I missed you guys! #47025

hey man. Tell us what you’ve been up to.

I killed a little doe whitetail in November and was able to get it on film. That’s all for me.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Bamboo Arrow Shafts #25829

I think Pine Hollow sells raw cane shafting.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Bow Making Class #21469

https://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=D30FD993-1422-1DE9-ED3CA78BDEB5BB73&page=1

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Boots for CO Elk Season #11358

They are great for slipping through the woods(no pun intended) quietly. Back when I hunted on flat ground the lacross is all I wore. I wore holes in the bottoms of several pair.

I bought a pair of Danner pronghorns a while back and, while they’re a comfortable and lite boot, the gortex is a joke. I’ve warrantied 2 pairs that started soaking up water like a sponge after 2 months use. Even with reglar grease. Anyway, I think it’s time for a change.

[Clay Hayes]

in reply to: Boots for CO Elk Season #10344

I used to buy the lacross rubber bottoms similar to the ll beans, but found they don’t have much traction in the steep country. Dave, how are the beans on a slope?

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