[James Harvey]

in reply to: Material for arrow rest? #55401

3rivers sell a stick on variety of brush rest.

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Arrow Shafts #53129

Shane, the Doc said in terms of durability ‘good’ hardwood shafts were the standouts, with forgewood and tapered hickory as the two standouts. Apparently there was daylight between those two and third place, laminated birch. Which is a pity as lam. birch is pretty readily available.

The numbers were something like 30% failure on heavy bone strike for C shafts vs 3% for the hardwoods.

However, for achieving high FOC, low gpi carbons like easton powerflights or bloodlines are obviously very appealing. My small experience has been that investing in robust internals pays dividends. Brass single piece adaptors/inserts are available from the tuffhead shop and other trad shops in a range of weights. I have also started using Al footings recently (again from tuffhead shop) and as yet I haven’t had any failures from brass internals with Al footing, but it’s early days I guess.

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: "The Good Hunt" update #50925

I am looking forward to it. Thanks for the update Dave 😀

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Birthday gift in the freezer! #50468

Well done Alex 😀 I also love the historical reference. Thinking about those who came before us is one of the great pleasures of our endeavour I think. Knowing hard men walked the very trails you walk? That would be a rare treat I suspect.

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: NewbieQ: Martin Saber TD Recurve Assembly #49858

I may be misunderstanding the first question but you’re asking if the limb with weight markings is the lower limb? That’s the convention. I’d either give Martin or the shop you bought the bow from a call and ask about the foam pads. Then you can get shooting 😀

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Tuffhead testing #49842

Webmother wrote: I emailed them to check and it was bounced back as a closed email address. 🙁

I emailed them last night and got a bounce as well 🙁

Doc, thanks for the epoxy advice, I’m glad I asked, I really thought 30 minutes sounded slow 😉

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Tuffhead testing #49382

Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: The key to decreasing glue failure is good shaft and ferrule prep and fit, and the use of slow-cure epoxy.

Doc, when I hear slow cure epoxy I think 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy. Is that the kind of stuff you’re talking about or is it something else?

Also, I’ve only found one place online that sells ‘Forgewood’ shafts, Alaska Frontier Archery (http://www.alaskafrontierarchery.com/Arrow%20Pricing.html). Are those the kind of shafts you’re talking about? They’re very reasonably priced if they’re the toughest shafts getting around.

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Tuffhead testing #48344

Alright, here a couple of good images from the last few days…

This is about my favourite image, because this shot wrecked a couple of things.. The shaft actually failed just in front of the fletching, which I suspect must be the consequences of an earlier impact weakening the shaft there. I don’t remember a particular impact but I’m pretty rough on my arrows. You can see that the head only penetrated about an inch before it was stopped in it’s tracks (courtesy of a gnarly joint and head failure), perhaps that excess energy just had to go somewhere. You can see the tail end flying past in the still taken from video.

Here you can see that head after it was excavated from the bone. I’ve shot these heads through a couple inches of bone before but hitting the gnarly joint where it did was not kind to it… You can see the head bent sharply right in front of the ferule. I guess this is where the near full length ferrule of the Tuffhead earns it’s money.

This is one of the outback’s after shooting through the thin flat part of the humerus. I haven’t touched it besides rinsing it off and it looks immaculate. I’ve ruined a few of these over the years and lost even more, typically where I’ve seen them fail is the thin arms extending back past the screw getting bent out of shape. I’ve never seen one bend in front of the ferrule like the one above did.

Here is something that Dave et al have reported as a common failure but I have only just encountered myself. It is a failure in both the Al insert and the steel adaptor. The cause was a glancing strike on the long part of the bone. I’m not sure if the damage occurred when the head struck the bone and was deflected away (impact was hard enough to cut a long gouge into the bone) or if it was when the shaft struck the bone after the broadhead passed by. I believe this is the kind of bone strike that Doc Asby’s data showed a 30% failure in C shafts compared to 3% failure in hardwood shafts.

There’s nothing revelatory in that, just confirmations of other’s reporting. I’d love to try some tuffheads on some decent hardwood shafts. From reading the good doc’s findings that ought to be about the most absurdly tough hunting arrow getting around.

Jim

PS

I really want to shoot the tuffhead at something stupid (like concrete) but can’t come up with any reasonable justification for it 😉

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Shot Placement #47708

Arne knows his stuff. The vertical/horizontal lines tool is a good one. I’ve used it successfully.

Another tool you may consider if you have an Iphone is a free coaching app (I use one called ubersense) that you can use to record yourself shooting. I call out the the fall of shot before firing the next arrow, which allows me to watch my form on the video playback and see what impacts my failures in form have on the fall of shot.

Good luck with your shooting 😀

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: using peroxide for blood trailing #46591

That is a great bit of knowledge you shared there Jason. Like someone else said, the dry leaf at the end blew my mind. Great stuff.

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Tuffhead testing #45674

Just a little update, I’ve been shooting more beef shoulders and humerus’ (humeri?) and thus far I have one definitive finding. The 300grain tuffhead is indestructable. I’ve been breaking shafts and other broadheads at a fairly high rate of knots and I’ve only been shooting the one tuffhead and it just needs touch ups on the edge. If they weren’t so darned expensive to get out here I’d be dropping this experiment and jumping straight into ‘tuffhead vs block of concrete’.

Anyway, I hope to have some decent pics and comparisons to share before long 😉

Jim

PS thanks for all the kinds words fellas 😉

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Making bow quivers #45575

Looks like a store bought, well done 😉

Jim

PS

Huzzah for photobucket success 😀

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Just for Fun! #44166

Cameron wrote: Jim – I have never participated in any type of target comp. And the reason I started doing this was to build confidence in my shot and to measure improvement

Cameron, I have never shot at a round target comp either 😉 But I saw a very impressive archer talking up the NFAA 300 as a means for just what you’re saying, where every shot counts for something in practice and you have measurable improvement AND measurable breakdown throughout the practice, so you’re fighting physical and mental fatigue.

I particularly like the way you’re scoring though as it makes that kind of practice a bit more directly relevant to our endeavours. Rather than simply adding up numbers.

Jim

[James Harvey]

in reply to: lessons learned #43702

jasonsamko wrote:

Pee BEFORE you get all dressed up, nothing worse than having to pee bad and then having to fish thru 11 layers of clothing to get a handle on the situation.

Jason, I read a great quote from Shackleton that from memory went: “One of the greatest challenges of Antarctic exploration is getting 2 inches of manhood past 4 inches of wool every morning.”

You reminded me of that 😉

[James Harvey]

in reply to: Just for Fun! #43692

I like it Cameron, like an NFAA 300 round. But I like your ‘scoring’ system.

Jim

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