[Snag32]

in reply to: NALS #22270

Big Lake is near the area where the shoot is being held. There is camping at the lake also. We will be able to use the ski lodge and it’s kitchen. So I believe there will be a catering service for those who don’t want to cook. I’m looking forward to this one!

http://www.taoregon.com/nals14flyer.html

[Snag32]

in reply to: Tuffhead lost and found #27301

David Petersen wrote: Skinner — Forgive me if this is old news, but since your head did come off the adapter … another current thread in this forum recently was discussing the best metal-to metal glues to attach heads to adapters and I thought, but didn’t post to say, that if you don’t do a dandy job of cleaning both the male and female parts with acetone or alcohol, it doesn’t matter what kind of glue you use because you’ll still have an oily bond that likely will fail. Like most else in life I learned this the long, slow, painful personal way. With clean parts I’ve never had any glue fail, including heat-melt which is my favorite since I sometimes want to change insert weights. Congrats on the cow. I’m eating cow meat too this year, in fact in about half an hour with dinner. 😀

I go one step further when mounting heads and points. I like to use a conical metal wire drill bit to ream out any stuff adhering to the inter walls. I dip the bit in acetone or alcohol and then into the taper. Really cleans them out and ready for gluing.

[Snag32]

in reply to: Yew Longbows #48106

Talk with Allen Boice at Liberty Bows. He’s in Roseburg, Or. and has some great yew and great bow designs. Everything from D shape to R/D. Love his bows.

[Snag32]

in reply to: Re-tuning my arrows #38412

Your arrow length is plenty long enough. If by adding weight you are getting a better bareshaft result all you can do is keep adding weight until you are slightly weak. Then by adding the fletching it will stiffen it up slightly.

[Snag32]

in reply to: Re-tuning my arrows #38275

What length are your arrows cut to? BOP? If you are drawing to 27″ you are shooting about 37#@27″. Might have to go longer on the shafts if adding point weight isn’t satisfactory.

[Snag32]

in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #35675

I like heads in the 125-160gr range. The Eclipse heads are my “go to” heads. They are tough and keep an edge well. I recently bought a pack of the 190gr Tuffheads “Meathead”. Impressed with the construction and how well they finish the bevel and edge. But I do wish they would come out with one in 150gr. The STOS heads are good for the price as well. The lower priced heads need more frequent attention to the cutting edge.

One head I will never buy is the Grizzly heads. I was asked by a customer to mount some of these on his arrows I was building. When I got them in I was shocked as I inspected them. Out of 6 heads there was half of them that were visibly curved…not from shipping damage either. I tried heating them up to straighten them…they snapped when pressure was applied. NOT impressed! For the price there are much better heads out there.

Eclipse heads fly great, sharpen nicely, and are strong. For the price I have’t found a better head.

[Snag32]

in reply to: Arrow makers #35188

Cost of materials have gone up and make it hard to make and sell quality wood arrows for less than $100 a dozen. Might check out….

http://www.WildernessCustomArrows.com

[Snag32]

in reply to: Tuning wood shafts #57159

The nock alignment is for safety reasons too. If the nock is aligned with the grain, instead of perpendicular to it, when shot it can result in a split or exploded shaft! Very important to get this right.

[Snag32]

in reply to: wood shaft spine ? #57154

http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/WoodChart.pdf

http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

The second link is for a spine calculator that allows you to input tip weight, arrow length, etc. It is a very good tool as long as you input the correct info! 😀

Hope this helps.

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