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  • SlowBowInMO
      Post count: 13

      Patrick wrote: Of the three, which would be most trouble free:
      Port Orford Cedar
      Douglas Fir
      Hickory

      I think most would agree POC is tops for being user friendly, but that would depend on what you consider “trouble free”. If you are willing pay a little extra for top quality shafting (not common in POC anymore) and you don’t consider being a bit fragile “trouble” POC is your wood.

      For readily available true premium quality shafting that is tougher and heavier than cedar, but still easy to work with the Surewood Shafts in Douglas Fir are “da bomb” and my personal choice.

      Hickory has it’s merits and detractions but based upon your post I really don’t think it’s what you are looking for.

      SlowBowInMO
        Post count: 13
        in reply to: Hog Huntin' #31075

        I love hunting hogs! About as much fun as you can have with a bow in your hand. I will add don’t shoot one like you would a deer, their vitals are very low and forward. Try to place your arrow directly above the front leg/knee about 1/3 up the body, and take nothing but broadside or quartering away shots.

        Properly hit hogs usually go down very quickly, there’s even a good chance you’ll hear it go down. Anything other than perfect shot placement makes for a long day…I have helped track a number of hogs which I’m certain we would have recovered had they been deer.

        SlowBowInMO
          Post count: 13
          in reply to: spline tester #25229

          I’m with Dennis, I believe the spine tester Kevin makes is the king of the heap. They are still for sale, they are called the Spine-O-Meter Mark II, do a google search you’ll find them.

          SlowBowInMO
            Post count: 13

            As an aside for those interested, I’ve done a fair amount of testing with the new Elites as we have considered carrying them. I am convinced the glue on’s are the better heads at this point.

            If you were to look at the glue on twin to the head pictured above, the 125 gr glue on, I believe it would have fared better than the 150 pictured. I’m not saying it wouldn’t have been damaged, and certainly I’m not disputing Ashby’s work regarding 3 blades or Woodsmans (I love his stuff). What I am saying is if you’re going to shoot a Woodsman Elite, I’d take a hard look at the glue ons over the screw ins.

            I’m currently using a few 125 Elite glue on’s mounted to steel adapters, which I believe are a stronger set up then the dedicated factory screw in versions.

            SlowBowInMO
              Post count: 13

              If a deer had no bones at all, the best shot is still not in the shoulder blade area. I’m all for tuning a set up for maximum penetration, but I can’t for the life of me see a good reason to intentionally shoot a deer in the shoulder regardless of the set up.

              SlowBowInMO
                Post count: 13

                I have tried it a few times for deer. On one occasion I had a number of deer pass right through the area with zero reaction…and I had enough of the stuff out that I could even smell it.

                Never tried it on hogs, that’s interesting.

                SlowBowInMO
                  Post count: 13
                  in reply to: Bug Spray Conundrum #8254

                  I use Repel brand Permanone. It is an insecticide not a repellent and it works fantastic. I used to get hundreds of chiggar bites and now I seldom get more than just a couple a year. It works great on ticks too.

                  You spray it on your boots and clothes, not your skin. It doesn’t repel them, it just kills them! Best of all it really works and lasts for a couple weeks too. You can get it in the sporting goods dept. at Wal-Mart.

                  SlowBowInMO
                    Post count: 13
                    in reply to: Carbon Mystery #60184

                    Shooting carbon arrows out of trad bows is fine, shooting DAMAGED carbon arrows out of any bow is NOT.

                    Any arrow that blows up on the bow was most likely damaged previously due to an impact of some sort.

                    SlowBowInMO
                      Post count: 13
                      in reply to: Arrow Spine #58834

                      If your bow was a cut past center recurve I’d think your arrows a pretty good match, but they may be too stiff for your longbow. How deep is your shelf cut? It makes a huge difference in spine requirements. Is your bow a high performance hybrid or something more like a Hill? What string material are you using?

                      SlowBowInMO
                        Post count: 13

                        Wow, he sounds like a walking real life TV show.

                        I like Todd’s advice, and I’d also suggest you just let it lay. I’m betting he’s eventually headed for burn out, or will wake up one day and realize he’s not having any fun. Either way I’d let him take his own path and hope one day it comes back and crosses yours, at his choosing.:D

                        SlowBowInMO
                          Post count: 13

                          I really like 4 fletch as well, but had to switch back to 3 when I went to 3 under about 10 years ago. Unfortunately 4 fletch distracts my sight picture at full draw when I shoot 3 under.

                          They sure look good though, stabilize fast and I liked being able to shoot your arrow any way you want.

                          SlowBowInMO
                            Post count: 13

                            Well done, we have similar tastes you could have easily made those for me. Love the Surewoods, the camo feathers and I’m pretty high on those new Elites too.

                            SlowBowInMO
                              Post count: 13

                              I have used both and you really can’t go wrong with either one. Both are very high quality and fly very well too. Forced to pick between the two I’d opt for the Stinger, which IMO penetrates a little better.

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