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in reply to: Target backstop #28863
danhor7 wrote:
https://www.bupsports.com/products.cfm
It’s 4ft X 6ft
Anyone used this product?
Does it weaken (ie: fail to stop arrows) over repeated shots in the same area?
It looks pretty good on their website, if a bit pricey.
in reply to: pray for us #20023We know something about flooding here in Manitoba too.
My prayers will be with you.
Shalom
in reply to: Fletching color #12187Wexbow wrote: I can’t help but wonder if “unnatural” colours work better such as pink.
I’ve heard the same said for blue.
in reply to: Fletching color #64130My vey first set of arrows were fletched yellow and brown. I thought the yellow would render them easily seen. But I quickly discovered that when trying to find a lost stumping arrow, everything in the woods looks 31″ long, perfectly straight, and attached to yellow and brown.
When I took the hunter safety course, the instructor said that hunter orange is the most visible colour to the human eye. I then went to all orange fletch, orange crest wraps, and orange nocks.
(Now, everything on the forest floor seems 31″ long, perfectly straight, and attached to something ever so close to neon orange :?.)
in reply to: Arrows (attempted build-along) #63097Wolfshead wrote:
Why would you need to use acetone? I have not used that before.
Acetone is a GREAT solvent. It will clean off anything that might hinder the performance of your finishing products.
But be careful. It will disolve some things you may not want it to, like plastic!
And if you use it in an unventilated room, you’ll soon discover another use for the stuff :shock:, although you may not remember it later…
(Seriously, the stuff can fry your brain and is a popular inhalant. That’s POPULAR, not WISE. Heed all warnings, etc.)
in reply to: Thanks, Dave! #37012Thanx & all the best!
I hope we still hear from you here.
in reply to: binoculars vs spotting scope #33090For what my limited experience is worth, go with the binoulars. You’ll need something that goes with you and can be brought to your eye at a moment’s notice. Keep them around your neck at all times.
in reply to: Quiver help #22502Ed Bosley Jr. wrote: Contact info for Steve Cattsx1326 Hansford Fork Rd.
Maysel, WV 25133
304-587-4578
Straight from the Traditional Bowhunter magazine classifieds.
He’s got a great website too:
in reply to: Bird Points #25600I recently made some “bird” arrows but have yet to get a shot off. But for what it’s worth:
I bought some cheaper 100gr broadheads (2-blade, screw-in) and put scorpios (the judo prongs that slide up the shaft on impact) behind them.
in reply to: Making a quiver, need tips! #26728Make sure you build mock-up out of cardboard or cheap leather to finalize your design before you cut up the good stuff.
I agonized over the design of my quiver for a long time, and I don’t regret it.in reply to: Back vs. Bow Quivers #26723What I prefer is a back quiver with side extraction (like the “dawg ware” or “safari tuff”). I made one with enough pocket space to hold what I need for a day in the woods (if I pack light). In a treestand I just hang it in a manner that gives me easy access to my arrows and the pockets. With my arows completely covered, I find I hang up less in the brush than with a bow mounted quiver. I especially like how my quiver accomodates any style of arrowhead.
I must add that if I needed to carry a backpack (no elk treks for me, just farmland whitetail so far), I would probably go back to a bow mounted quiver.in reply to: Building up to heavy draw weight #59611TBMADMIN wrote: Is there enough interest from the rest of you for me to post it as an article for everyone to read?
I would certainly give it a read.
in reply to: Building up to heavy draw weight #58640Hi Stick N String! As I’m one of the less experienced archers & hunters here, please don’t inflate the value of my $0.02. But for what it’s worth…
A while ago I went from a 50lb bow to 70lb. I couldn’t say no to a sweet bow at a sweet price. I had to sell my lighter bow so I was quite over-bowed for a while. As Homer suggested, what I do to compensate for my sporadic practice is to draw my bow (preferably in front of a mirror, to watch for form) to full draw, hold briefly, and let down, repeating as stamina allows. It’s helped me. I also do upper body excersises.
As far as how much poundage is needed, I would think that even if you continue to hunt primarily with your lighter bows, practicing on the Martin would make shooting the other bows that much easier.
Happy shooting!in reply to: Hunting & Spirituality #50491Excelent responses all! While the concerns of Mr. Petersen & tracker10 (among others, I’m sure) were perfectly valid and well stated, I’m glad to see the respectful attitude that I’ve come to love about this group.
A part of me would like to comment on all of the great insights I’ve read, but nobody wants me any more long-winded than I already am, I’m sure.
I think that the hunt goes beyond food and sport for all of us, the question is how and why. I’m glad to see these diverse (they need not be divisive) thoughts articulated so well.in reply to: Wolf observation. #49879Smithhammer wrote: I believe there is no single thing we can do to better protect game levels, healthy ecosystems, and our right to hunt, than by protecting habitat in its entirety. On this, we should all be united.
Well said indeed!
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