[Hiram]

in reply to: Custom building a 2 piece stainless steel broadhead #34539

Hopefully, I did not discourage you Daniel! If I did, except my apology. I commented on the steels, not your project.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #32706

My method would be considered much more “Anal” than Greatrees! Not knocking his way at all. I just do it different. Wish I had my computer problems fixed, so I could post up with pics. My jig is based on the string being 17 inchs longer. I start the top loop 9 inchs from the longsest end of both bundles. I pinch it off there with my Hemos and start the twists. I twist them in tight, with a clockwise direction till I get the desired length of the loop (longer with recurves) so it will slip over the wider limb. I tend to like my loops only as long as I absolutly need them. I also taper off six strands of B-50 from my center peg to pad the loops. I integrate this into the loop, which is 18 inchs long to match my string tapers. I lay this doubled into the string before I clamp my Hemos to start the loop. I also wax my string down before I remove the bundles from the Jig. This enables me to keep the strands together. I like to twist in my loop, then cross to the same side (color) when I start my main taper. I tie the main tapers in under pressure from the eye level hook I mentioned in another post. I try to keep all the Tags twisted into the main bundle so I have a strong and good looking string after I am done. I pull the entire length of string while hooked on the “Hook” and make sure they are even on the un-finished end. While I am doing this, I try to take out any twists in the Bundles. I clamp the top Bundle with the Alligator Clip before I start this so I do not un-twist my top Tapers. By taking out the twists and any length inconsistancies, I will have a very tightly made string, settling in, and creep will be deminished considerably. I then start the other end and do it 8 inchs from the longest strand. I have marks on Jig to show these measurements. I also end my serving similar to Greatrees with the exception that: I use a serving tool, and apply my serving very tight. I like to wind my serving on clockwise, or over the string, and I go more turns to keep the Tag ends of my serving secure. I pull them tight with pliers before I cut them off.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #30642

Get it on Ray! I am having a hard time uploading pics. I may have to wait till my laptop gets repaired. I only have a notebook. My jig uses the 17 inch longer method. I have made strings without a jig myself. Flemish twist strings are not hard to make, it just requires attention to keeping things the same length.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #29337

I use a jig because it usually affords a tighter more precisely made string. I also like the ability to cut tapers into the string ends. The Jig I use has the string length in inches marked for the center peg adjustment. these string length adjustments are for Long Bows, which is three inches shorter than the length of the Bow. If I have to start from scratch on the strings length, I measure from the back of the Bow (front) while unstrung, from the string nock slots. I make my Recurve strings four inches shorter. I also like to use the clamps I mentioned earlier, along with a Hook on the wall at about eye level, to really twist my strings up tight! I employ the Hook to blend in the tapers and twist them in tight. I found that a tightly wound string will settle in quicker, and stay put after it is shot in. Another reason I use the Hook method, is that after the top loop is completed, and the tapers are twisted, that I can pull the entire string tightly before the bottom is twisted in. This produces a string that has even tension on all the strands. I will work my hand up and down the string and pull it tightly along the entire length to assure this. The bottom ends are then held to that “tensioned length” until I clasp my large Hemos on the beginning of the bottom loop location to begin the loop twists. I like a neatly twisted up string, that is tapered down on the bottom of the loops. This not only looks good, but makes for a long lasting and precise string!

[Hiram]

in reply to: Spot and stalk quiver #29323

What it boils down to is that of convenience. Hunting which demands a day pack, or pack, makes it difficult to attach arrows tot he side or back. Thats why its easier and more accessible to just put on them on the Bow. Long Bows crave the extra weight to stabilize the Bow a little too.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #29142

Hey Ray I will give away a method that will end you ever having to pull the end through again!
When you start your serving just loop it over and wind over it about ten times and pull the tag tight with pliers. Then just serve until you are within a half inch of the end. This method requires that you serve clockwise from left to right. It may be reversed though if you want to go counter. When you get within the half inch of the end, just pull off about eight inches of serving toward you keeping the your winding tight and hold onto the loop with your left hand keeping it tight.Now throw the server over the string at the far end of the loop and serve about ten winds in the middle of the loop onto the string. Now pull the serving tool through the loop and throw it over the left side of the loop you have been holding with your left hand. Let the server dangle on the left side and wind the loop onto the serving thread end that is crossed over to left. Wind it on clockwise on top of the serving end you crossed over the left side of the loop until you run out of the serving you wound on from the middle of the loop. Now all you have is the serving tool directly connected to the end because you have wound it on from the inside of the loop and made it endless. Pull it tight and cut it off from the front of the server. Leave a tag to burn off with a lighter. Walla you have it served without having to pull a tag end loop through. 🙂

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #28410

Hope I can manage some photo uploads in the next couple of days. I will try to do this with an explanation accompanying each photo. Off to Photo Bucket to create an account.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Flemish strings #28404

Hey Ray I use about the same things. I like to use bowstring wax to keep my strands together after cutting the end splices. The best I have found is the string makers type wax available from string making sources. This stuff is pretty tacky compared to regular string wax, and will insure the strands stick together. That being said, regular string wax will suffice. I have also found that a very useful tool to hold the two strings together in the initial stage of starting the two bundles together to form the loop is a large pair of hemostats. These are about 10 inchs long and have the locking clasps on the bottom.I slide some peep sight tubing over the ends to grasp the strings, and the tubing also protects the strands. Another handy tool is the small alligator clips. I also slide tubing on the jaws of a couple of these to clamp off the finished end of the first braid before I start the other end.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Make a Flemish twist string? #28071

OK, will get on it as soon as I get the photo posting secured.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Longbow Strings #22451

See what I can drum up.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Longbow Strings #21704

Anyone for a Flemish string making thread? How bout a jig thread?

[Hiram]

in reply to: Prayers needed #21700

Prayer sent!

[Hiram]

in reply to: NEW TO ME – NORTHWIND FLATBOW #19217

Martin Savanah!

[Hiram]

in reply to: Ideal Broadhead weight #16063

Sounds like plans to shoot through everything!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: ? re: altering a bow's weight #16054

All along the way, you must try to keep your tiller within reason while doing this. Start by marking two points, preferably at even points at the fade outs and measure your tiller. Bet it is positive by a little, say 1/8 to 1/4. Do you shoot split or three under? Split is better with a little positive tiller, generally. Now you have the points measured to check periodically while you sand. Since you are not a Bowyer, I would recomend a sanding block and several grits of sandpaper from 80 on the sides to 120 on the glass. I would narrow the sides all the way to the tips first, evenly as you go and measure often. I would string it from time to time and check for centering too. I would reserve sanding on the back (front of the Bow) primarily for tillering. Use dial calipers for measuring the limb width and go slow! Harder to put material back on than taking it off. Or, better yet, sell it and buy a cheapy in the right draw weight LOL.:)

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