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in reply to: ammo selection #13946
Fellers — for what its worth, I just set up some super-light arrows for longer-distance (out to 30 yards is long distance to me!) shooting at antelopes. With 160 grain STOS heads total weight is only 480 on skinny 21/64 tapered cedar shafts. Ain’t figured foc yet but point is with 160 broadheads these light arrows shoot far better than they ever did with 125 field points. Heavy or light shafts, it seems the more weight in front the better they fly, just like the good Doc says. bb 😯
in reply to: The Line In The Sand: Traditional Equipment #58421Traditional to me is “doing more with less.” That is, more effort and skill and devotion from me, and less dependancy on anything bought. So there are degrees of traditional. But as others have said, there is a “bottom line” when it comes to tecnology. If it ain’t a “stick and string,” it ain’t traditional in mhy books. And my bhooks is what I hunt by. bb
in reply to: New BIG Centaur Battle Axe Broadhead #58419Baraga — don’t mean to start a argument, but darn them sounds like airplane wings! Have you shot them at 20 yards in any breeze? Got piktures? Sounds like sorta a Gillontine for lopping off turkey heads. But for deer? But maybe you’re shoot a hundred pounds! Please post piks, bb
in reply to: What to do? #58414Lousy — off-topic, sorry, but I like your name and am thinking, since you’re a trad bowhunter and posting here, that first you’re joking and eat wild meat ever nite – and/or second (still you’re joking) you understand the difference between hunting and killing. So maybe even if you’re in fack a lousy killer, your probly a great hunter! Sorry I can’t be more clearer, but trust that you and others here get my point — killing ain’t hunting and while a great hunter may be a good killer you can be a “good” killer and alousy hunter. Just watch them TV shows! Otherwise I doubt this site will want to get into the posting of buyer-seller problems and think maybe if this don’t get fixed soon, any broadcasting of the problem is best to do in private with PMs. But what do i no? Just ask my wife! b b
in reply to: your opinion on proper form #58411Boy Bob, are you gonna hear plenty “what works for me” with this question. But in the end what will that mean for you? As you said, how you do it sure seems wrong. For one example anchoring below the chin puts the line of sight and the line of flight at wonky angles! But hey, if you shoot good, who cares what works for others? Me, I like a 4′ stabilizer on a 2′ Matthews arrow-shooting machine, with lazar sites and a “bow-pod” to anchor the 23-pound monster to the ground! 😛 To each his/her own, so long’s it don’t cheat the animal and further gut the heart of hunting. bb
P — new short bow, and now new pack in your future? Either you got a raise, married well or inherited! In any case congrats and more power to you, as you’re planning to use it well. In my longish life I’ve found that the pack don’t count nearly so much as the packer. If you’re in great shape almost anything that don’t fall apart works great. There’s “best” and there’s “best for the bucks.” IMHO Bison Gear’s wool packs are the best hunting packs … but not enuf room for backpack hunting. Are you looking mostly for a camping backpack, or a hunting pack, or both at onct? I have a old one, can’t recall the name right now but it is a nylon pack with tons of room and outside pockets, waterproof, on an alumineum frame. You can easy take the pack off the frame and fold down a shelf for packing meat. It was about a hundred bucks maybe 15 years ago and still is my first choice for backpack hunting. Seriously what you’ll likely have to do is stick your hunting pack onto your backpacking pack, as no hunting pack is a good backpacking or meatpacking pack, and versa vice. My 2 sents but with a zillion years and miles of experience. What’s most important here ain’t what pack you get, but that you actually want to walk into the wilds alone with your house on your back. More power to you Patrick! bb
in reply to: Campfire and friends #54710We’re waiting …:D
in reply to: When and why do you replace your glove? #46171I can’t hunt with a tab because I can’t wear a glove, even with the finger cut out on the shooting hand, comfortable with a tab. I buy shooting gloves large enuf to pull on over a thin glove and works great. Like Snubby I prefer the nylon tip reinforcers, for one thing they work great when wet while leather don’t. Tried “Skookum” tipped-gove once and it’s the best release I’ve had and OK when wet, but wears out REAL fast so don’t recommend that. bb
J (nice hat!) — I’ve had a Bohning ballistic plastic jig for years without a moment’s problem. Think it was around $40 but that’s been a while. Since I enjoy the slow relaxed job of fletching arrors — stick a feather on and forget about it for 20 minutes, then aother, so’s only one an hour comes out — I’m perfeckly happy with the one-sticker. Unless i run it over with the truck I expect it to last my lifetime, especially since I’m a smoker! 😀 bb
in reply to: 40# Recurve and a Buffalo #36487I saw this on the “campfire” forum, and say again here that as we age (sigh) we shoot liter bows so this info is Really good help. Thanks and keep on keepin’ on! bb
in reply to: Wood Arrows, single bevels and EFOC #36485US too! Bring ’em on! The aluminum exturnal reforcements for wood shafts that some are using probly are real good … but if your a hopeless woody shooter somehow it just don’t seem right. Can’t help ourselvs! A really heavy broadhead and cedar shafts with reinfored front ends — not so much for weight as to keep from breaking behind the head — could be the answer. While is clearly works for them what are set up to do it, internal inserts and all that “shop stuff” ain’t never goning to appeal to the mass market of hunters. And that seems like the best end goal — to change the whole “tradition” of what a traditional arrow should be … something us average folks can order off the net or get at our local trad shop without having to hock the wife and kids (tho that might not be a bad deal in some cases :twisted:) I’m sorry for my English but reckon you get what I mean. bullyboy
Bedrock — are you from Utah, and/or a Abbey fan? Anyhow, your no nuisance as that’s my job (or so say my wife!). I’m not sure from your post exactly what you are asking. All I know is that I’m old enouf to have tried ’em all and strap-on bow quivers do the job for me. Must be 5 dozen compnays making those, so shop around. If your shooting a hevy recurve like a Black Widow, you can handle a larger 5-6 arrow bowquiver. For self bows and lighter recurves and longbows, the smaller 4-arrow jobs is best. Avoid the old kind where you have to slip on over the limb tips. Rubber strap-ons are best. At least for me. Welcome! bb
in reply to: skeletons in your closet #36462Johnnytwo — I can sort of echo wat Dave said about the ‘void’ in elk, at least dead ones laying on their sides — big space up there on top! Maybe different on live deer for shooting purposes but in any case a hi shot like that ain’t no good shot, no way! Void or none. “low-front,” get to the heart of it! bb
in reply to: 40# Recurve and a Buffalo #36457Dr. A — a professional bowyer friend of mine told me lately that in recent years, the average weight of recurve and longbows he’s been building on custom order has dropped from 60-65 to 50-55, as the average trad bowhunters age “matures.” So your info on how to maximize the dangerusnous (to game!) of slow-shooting, lighter-draw bows is Really Important! More now than ever before. If we are “mature” and ain’t listening to you, we are fools. So much thanks to you, sir. bb
in reply to: Dave's bull — Ashby performance report #31330Wow this is great info! I gotta start carrying a camera. If these single-bevel heads and heavy arrows whack through elk and buffalo shoulder like that, they should slice through whitetail bone like butter. Welcome back, Doc Ashby!:)
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