[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Footing for gt 7595 traditional #16018

skinner biscuit wrote: Anybody foot a Gt 7595? Would a easton 2213 work?

The outside diameter of that shaft is .311. A 2213 inside diameter is .3178, that would work perfect. If not, a 2212 is .3198. I’ve never done it on that shaft but do do it on my beman mfx’s, makes em really tough.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Broadheads #12689

Well ok I reckon. I don’t have any idea who is a sponsor and who isn’t so I’ll list em all.

Grizzly edge rolled over, next one broke.

Abowyers tips rolled over

Grizzly stick Maasai heads broke but still managed penetration to the fletch.

Magnus stinger penetrated to the fletch but bleeders were like butter, main blade still sharp

Steelforce Phathead(steel ferrules) penetrated to the fletch and bleeders became useless after about 5 shots, main blade still sharp.

Single bevel steelforce with aluminum ferrules, blade held up, ferrules spread out, didn’t break but blade no longer was aligned true and flopped around.

VPA Penetrator penetrated to the fletch but did develop small nicks on the edge after a few shots.

Tusker Concorde, 155grs mounted on an aluminum ferrule was shot repeatedly, around a dozen times I reckon in an attempt to get it to break… it never did and the blade remained as sharp as when I started. Penetrated to the fletch every time.

Did not test the Tuffhead.

3 blades:

Vpa long head, 18″ of penetration.

Vpa long head, vented, broke.

Vpa short head, 10″ penetration.

Nap Razorcap, penetrated to the fletch, no damage.

Now on the vpa 3 blades the ferrule size is smaller than my .290 shafts with brass inserts, so they arrows appeared to hang up going thru the bone. The razorcap ferrule is much larger than the arrow so they did not hang up.

Hope that helps

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Meatheads and carbon arrow sleeves #53225

I use a 1″ footing over my skinny shafts that have a 50gr HIT insert. They are tuff as hell, I have not broken one yet.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Broadheads #53221

Not to get off the subject at hand but I think I can help with this 3 blade verses 2 blade thing.

Earlier this year I picked up a couple of fresh cow shoulder blades from my local butcher. These babies were still wet like what would be found in a live animal. I proceeded to shoot 3 blades, 4 blades, single bevels, of various manufactures at 15 yards with my 54lb Morrison. Overall weight of the arrow was about 580.

Short 3 blade heads penetrated about 10″. Long 3 blade heads averaged 18″, vented 3 blades broke. 2 blades and 4 blades, although the bleeders would no longer cut butter, averaged 28″. Single bevels also averaged to the fletch.

However, the edge of one brand single bevel rolled over, 2 other single bevel brands broke, and another was shot repeatedly over and over trying to get it to break or get dull, it never did. This head is now my broadhead of choice.

But, one particular 3 blade penetrated to the fletch quite a few times and remained sharp enough to kill. But I understand that head has been discontinued, it was a Razorcap. The key I think is that the ferrule is a larger diameter than the arrow shaft, otherwise the shaft hangs up in the bone and stops penetration.

In almost all cases, when the real heavy part of the shoulder blade bone was hit, that was the end of it, very few heads made it through.

I did not shoot either one of my 150gr werewolfs because I only have two left.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Bright Fletching/Wraps and Hunting #50805

Yellow and orange for me for the last 30 years, never been busted because of it.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Broadheads #50799

I tried the glue on 2 blades a few years back. The weight was off 10 grs per head, I hear he got this fixed though. Then I tried the 150gr Werewolf broadhead single bevel, killed a cow elk with that head, they flew great and I really liked them. Then he made some changes to the werewolf design and the 150gr head thickness went from .050 to .035… that was it for me, I sent them back.

They do come sharper than hades though!

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Come on Feather Joe. Tell us a story #48829

Nice work! I love it when it all comes together like that.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Recurve tiller #38373

I thought 3 under was even tiller and split finger is about 1/8″? No?

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Is 10 GPP enough for elk? #46615

South Texas wrote: is there a real significant difference in speed? Ive been looking at these foam core bows for a while now but Im not sure if it will make a real big difference.

I like em, they feel smoother but the sound at release is more tinny. You can get them quite though. Speed wise you’ll gain 3 to 5 fps but couple that with a static limb design and it gets closer to 8 to 10fps.

Back to the original question, I shoot 12grs per pound out of a 53lb bow for elk, that’s 636 grains. Way back before the Ashby studies I shot 10grs per pound with two blade heads. It worked but I only took broadside shots.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Remove inserts from carbon shafts #11022

Archer38 wrote: would the bag trick not be a risk of splitting a carbon shaft ? Not sure, just a thought. The pressure of the fit could split the end ?

No, if its that hard to get the insert in go to a thinner plastic, maybe saran wrap. I have found that with 100 grain brass inserts I’m usually tearing the plastic off after they are half way down or it ends up to tight. 50’s are ok the shim the entire thing. You have to experiment a little because not all inside arrow diameters are the same. Goldtips for instance seem a little bigger than most.

Joe, I’ve never tried that type of target but it sounds like your right, cut the nock end on that one.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Remove inserts from carbon shafts #9929

Here’s something you might want to try in the future. Instead of gluing the insert in use a plastic sandwich bag as a shim. Place the bag over the end of the shaft and insert the insert, it should go in fairly tight and quite often I have to push down on the shaft with the insert on solid ground to seat it. They won’t come out if using a bag or foam target, hard foam like a 3d target they might. Then you can just take a pair of pliers and pull them out by gripping the field point. Trim the shaft, reinsert and away you go.

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: tuning ? #11702

David Petersen wrote: I second Steve on the likelihood of form, esp. release issues. I sometimes wonder if it would be helpful to use a trigger release for bare shaft testing. Has anyone here tried that? I just ordered a dozen shafts in three spines and am looking at some bare shaft tuning myself.

Now that might be worth giving a go, it sure would eliminate my sometimes crappy release. 😀

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: using test weights #56997

Over the last couple of years i’ve picked up quite a few bows in my quest to find the one. During the tuning process with all these bows, all around 53@28, each bow seemed to like a certain spine. Scanning my sometimes poor memory, I had a take down longbow like 500 spines, a couple other bows like 400’s, and the only one I have left now likes 340’s. All these bows were set up to shoot 250 to 350 grs up front. Granted shelf cut varies on a lot of them but running them through something like stu’s calculator and coming out with different set ups that all should work, same stiffness according to the calculator, did not yield the same result. If a bow liked 340, for the life of me I couldn’t get a 400 spined arrow to shoot well without going down to 125 or 100 gr heads, when in theory, according to the calculator, it should have worked with 150’s or 175’s.

My present bow that likes those 340’s will shoot a 100gr variance in tip weight, which is kind a cool really. Screw on a 200 head and go hunt deer with a 550gr arrow then screw on a 300 gr head and go hunt elk. 😀

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Steel Master Broadhead Sharpener #48107

Etter1 wrote: [quote=2blade]I have one 😀 works like a champ for single or double bevels but i never could get it to work right for treesharks. 😯

Work up a real good burr first with a steel file. Just push straight up on the blade. Then use the instructions with the sharpener. I’m afraid of touch them now.

I was going up and towards the front or back depending upon which side I was working on. But I don’t have any simmons heads now so…

[Dan Jackowiak]

in reply to: Steel Master Broadhead Sharpener #45884

I have one 😀 works like a champ for single or double bevels but i never could get it to work right for treesharks. 😯

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