Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: You can hangup the straight jacket #48732
Troy,congratulations! You said you were going to do it,and you did.It is amazing what purpose and conviction will accomplish.Will you have the AIRHAMMER at Kazoo?
in reply to: How Many Over 55 #40875[quote=Troy Breeding]Joe,
I did the same thing several years ago. Increasing my bow weight about 3# a year until I was confortably shooting 72#. I made a new set of limbs at 75# and had just started shooting then when my shoulder went snap, crackle, pop.
Even though the cause of my shoulder problem wasn’t from shooting heavy bows, using them didn’t help.
Hopefully I will be able to work my way back up over time. At my age I still have time to make that goal and save for the Oz hunt as well.
…………………………………………………..
TROY you have a better chance to make the OZ trip than I do with Cape buffalo.
I was jokeing when I posted about the Cape buffalo trip.:) (75lb bow less 53lb bow diveded by 2 lb a year will put my age at 84). Pullling a 75 lb bow at 84 and killing a Cape buffalo would probably break some kind of record!:lol::lol: What the heck going for record is a incentive:lol:
I do thank you for having confidence in my abilities.
I always in trouble When I am kidding people take me seriously and when serious they think I am jokeing or they don’t pay any attention at all .:D
in reply to: How Many Over 55 #38801It is pretty hard to compete with all you young guys (including David P).:D
I will be 73 in two months. I normally shoot a 53# longbow but have recently been working my way up so I can hunt Cape buffalo. Hoping to get up to a 75lb long bow. I have been working my way slowly about 2 lbs a year. I am going slow as I have to save the money for the trip.:lol::lol:
Always keep the dream alive! You have to have something to look forward too:)
in reply to: bow materials #23734Andrew,
You might consider calling and visiting with several bowyers to see what they recommend. May be you could narrow down what you think you want; material, style (RD or straight limb ,wood ,ect.).
The folks at Howard Hill are helpful. I have never bought a bow from them nor am I recommending their bows but I do know they are great to work with. In the past when building bows I bought raw bamboo and yew laminations from them. They are a family company and real nice people.
May be you could talk one of the bowyers you visit with into letting you try out (test drive) a bow. I am sure there would be an expense but still probably cheaper than trying to get to a show.
in reply to: lefty shooting wood arrows #18198George, I really like the way you illustrated your response! Great idea:idea: If you had a scientific keyboard with a lot of symbols you could make a living doing this.:D:D
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #16666[quote=wildschwein]I was wondering if anyone here had any ideas as to what spine range a person would need in a 30 inch POC shaft, to get a 200 grain broadhead to fly accurately from a 35# (near center cut) longbow?
wildschwein
Going back to the original question of what spine you would need the answer will probably be is you will have to experiment.A lot will depend on how much weight you end up with up front.If I would make a guess a spine range of 50 -55.
with 200 grn up front. At least that would be my starting point. Normally s spine for a 35# longbow would be 40-45 the old rule of thumb of use a spin 10# heavier than the bow.
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #16590I would have to agree that accuracy trumps arrow set up ,foc, total arrow weight, , speed…..,ECT,ECT. Arrow set up is designed is to improve the result of the shot after it is delivered accurately
I am not so sure however that a heavy arrow contributes to accuracy problems. In the example that Steve uses at 110 ft/sec less arrow speed the arrow in a 28’ draw would only be on the bow fractions of seconds. Probably enough time to move the bow hand to give decreased accuracy but I feel that accuracy is more a function of form which arguably should be improved using a lighter bow. There are multiple reports that efoc actually improves accuracy for various reasons which I will not get into .
Steve is dead on about deer ducking arrows. I think more times than not though it is the reaction to arrow in flight sound not the sight of the arrow. If you were hunting antelope and shooting long distance that would be different.
Shooting foc arrows may allow an archer to reduce the feather size thus having potential to quiet the arrow and reducing that potential problem.
Every archer has made conclusions about certain subjects based on their own experience and that is the way it will always be. It is pretty hard to argue with proven science. Given the choice between heavy arrows versus a fast light arrow the heavy arrow for killing power wins out every time.Again check out the formulas for kinetic energy and momentum
Give me a extremly fast uefoc arrow and I would really be happy:D:D
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #16161wildschwein.
It is true that your bow may perform sluggishly with a heavier arrow you have to be the judge of that.
Your thinking is correct however that a heavy arrow will give you more killing power out of your 35# bow.
Playing with the formulas for kenotic energy and momentum found at http://tuffhead.com/education/formulas_momentum.html
You will see the heavy arrow will outperform every time
I used two seniros KE= kenotic energy P= momentum
1. 500 gin arrow with a velocity of 150 ft/sec KE= 24.98 P= 33.3 ft.lbs
2. 400 gin arrow with a velocity of 160ft/sec KE=27.73 M=28.42
Without getting into a lengthy explanation of KE vs P
you can see that reducing the weight of the arrow by 100 gn and increasing the speed 10ft/sec the KE is slightly increased and the P is decreased.
Momentum is what causes penetration .Momentum is what kills.You can play with the formuls until you find a arrow that will perform from your bow with killing power
GOOD LUCK
in reply to: bow materials #62512Andrew I am going to assume you are refering to a laminated bow with fiberglass on back and belly.
I have built laminated bows under clear fiberglass out of all the materials you mentioned and have combined yew with bamboo and osage with bamboo. I also have used action boo under glear glass . they all preform well.
I love the look of osage under glass but it does not make a real fast bow.Osage combined with bamboo core is great.
A bow made completly of yew laminations is light in hand and makes a nice shooting bow. It can also be combined with bamboo to make a good shooter.
In general i think it really comes down to what you like and how it shoots for you . It is best to try out several bows.
If you would get a chance and could arrange it the Traditional Expo in Kalamazoo Michigan in January would be a good place to see and try a lot of different bows.
There are many varibles that make a bow wood, length ,limb design ect. Some times it gets confusing
If you were not talking about a laminated bow just disregard the last 3 paragraphs:Din reply to: Deer Calls? Or Just Blowing Hot Air! #51075Speaking of calls I bought a wheeze call the other day. I took it out of the package and called using the recommended method. Two short blast and one long. Nothing………no sound!
After many tries I was ready to take it back to the store….Luckily there was a video with it. I put the video in the computer and to my surprise and relief I found that a wheeze is just a rush of air. I was real embarrassed:oops:.
I have had some luck with grunt calls and bleat calls but I can hear them and so can the deer. Has anyone had experience with the wheeze call or is a joke being played on hunters:Din reply to: howard hill archery #50954If you were going from a recurve to a hill style bow there might be a learning or adjustment period .I found that there is only a slight learning curve between switching between a Hill style and a Reflex/deflex but not that much to be concerned about .
I personally feel that a straight limb bow is easier to shoot and more stable than r/d bows. I also feel they (HILL) are more sluggish (less speed) than r/d. Under 20 yds I have found that I shoot the Hill bow better than a r/d . It is kind of like comparing a straight limb selfbow to a laminated r/d bow .There defiantly is a difference. I have made and shot a lot of self bows probably why I like Hill bows. That being said I have shot for the last 5 years a take down r/d long bow:D
After reading what I just wrote I am sure I just added to the confusion. 😀 But we are not here to make your decision just add more food for thought? All I can say is an archer “can never have enough bows”in reply to: Heavy grain broadheads #45668G……
I will make a stab at answering your question. I am sure others will chime in even with contrasting ideas. I think that the first step in the decision process will be to determine what your goal is. Do you want a high FOC arrow or do you want a heavy arrow .Or do you want to try both heavy arrow and EFOC
I shoot a 55# Bear Grizzly recurve bow. My actual draw weight is 60# at 30″ I am going to try 75-80 spine cedar shafts to start out. Sound good?
If you are striving for a UEFOC arrow it will be hard to obtain that with wood arrows as the options to add a lot of weight up front are limited to the tip and possibly an add on such as woody weights. For UEFOC you need carbon arrows
If you just want a heavy wood arrow than you might give consideration to woods other than cedar..There are many you could investigate.
If you are striving for a wood arrow in the range that Dave mentioned “650 grain and 20% + FOC than cedar may work .It will depend on the weight combo (arrow+tip) .
You could go for both weight and EFOC by using a cedar arrow and as much weight as you can get glued to the front getting the FOC in the mid 20%
Which arrow material you decide on wood ,carbon or aluminum I would recommend that you strive to obtain at least a total weight of 650 grains total arrow weight .Dr ED Ashby has gleaned from his studies that the threshold to obtain bone penetration is 650 grains and higher. FOC or weight up front does not help in bone penetration but does out perform in soft tissue. However an arrow that exceeds 650 grain total weight and the FOC is exceeding 20%+ would be ideal. A very good place to start.
To answer more directly you question if you use cedar arrows in the 75 to 80 range they probably weigh in around 400 to 500grains(guess) I have no idea if the spine would work it will depend on the weight up front. You could be over or under spine .Sometimes you can purchase samples of arrows of different spines for experimentation.
in reply to: Heavy grain broadheads #44996Switching to a heavy arrows and /or EFOC requires a comment in time,effort and some times expense.It is very seldom one can add 100 grains up front of their arrow with out a spine change.Hopefully shortening the arrow as suggested, if possible, will suffice other wise you will have to experiment with different arrows thus the expense.
In my opinion the effort and possibly expense is well worth it for the reasons described by others .
If shooting instinctively you should stay committed to that set up for all archery practice.I often here archers comment that they use lighter arrows for 3D .If you you use the heavy set up all the time shooting reasonable distances is not a problem as Dave P.described in his post.
Good luck and have fun!I am sure if you switch you will never look back unless it is to reflect why you did not switch sooner.
Steve, I gladly pay for a larger site if that should be the case.But if cost becomes the issue I will not cut back until your photo is posted.
Persistence is a virtue and I believe you were blessed with it. Good Luck!
in reply to: They say you cant go back #27854Great story.Memories like that are to be cherished and the story passed on to the next generation.
-
AuthorPosts
