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in reply to: Let's See Your Fletching #15427in reply to: reflex/deflex #50739
T-roy wrote: I asked this question roughly a month or so ago and did not get much of a response. I am just curious what is the point of reflex/deflex bows? I understand that recurve bows are shorter but hold the same power. I am just wondering what are the pro’s and con’s of a reflex/deflex bow and why are they better than a traditional straight limb bow[/size]?
Sorry, you are wrong…..he stated R/D bows are “better”…..
Here is mine:
My Altoids Survival Kit
http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com/2013/06/my-altoids-survival-kit.html
My stove:
http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com/2012/07/home-made-backpacking-stove.html
in reply to: reflex/deflex #50488Better is subjective….I prefer the straight limbed bow despite the few feet per second they give up to R/D bows. I like my Hill styles “better”. 8)
in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #59005in reply to: Pulling my hair out over quivers. #56898Get a Hill stye backquiver and learn to use it and break it in properly. There is nothing better to hunt with than this style. HH had it right and was a pretty good hunter.
Don’t skimp on a “Cheap one”…. get one from a manufacturer that knows how to build a proper Hill style. HHA still sells them as do others like SunsetHill (Nate Steen).
The design and heavy leather that is conditioned to form to your back keeps your arrows from making noise or rattling around together. I can bend over and touch my toes with the quiver almost completely upside down without arrows from falling out.
I have a “how too” in the works for using and conditioning a new quiver for publication and after it is out there I’ll post a link…..but look into it. Besides, there is nothing more classic looking or faster on the shot than a Hill Style.
in reply to: Squirrels and Flu Flu Fletch #55544Duncan wrote: Do you drill out the primer pocket and shaft for the nail?
Yes, drill out for whatever size nail you are using.
in reply to: Squirrels and Flu Flu Fletch #52028Yup .357 casing with a nail in the primer hole cut off and ground to a short point. It is long enough to get penetration on tough squirrel hide, but short enough that it bounces off most trees.
Adds a little weight also.
in reply to: Squirrels and Flu Flu Fletch #50140in reply to: Yew Longbows #19967– Stay downwind (keep some unwaxed floss on the tip of your bow)
– Never look them in the eye.
– Do not move unless they are looking away or behind a tree to draw.
– Be calm…they sense tension.
– If you know where they are headed, head them off and let them come to you.
in reply to: Canting the bow #28652Some food for thought.
#1 – Keep your bow shoulder pointed at your target….always….high or low.
#2 – Your shooting should be natural and comfortable, leaning into the shot sligtly with head tilted.
Schulz said Howard Hill would vary the cant of his bow depending on distance….long shots were almost straight up and down. From a tree ot close ranges he would almost “lay the bow over flat”. I beleive both he and Howard hit pretty regular because they followed #1 and #2 above as a rules of law.
in reply to: cool air an' squirrels #17330in reply to: wool or camo? #12025in reply to: goose'n the longbow #58080pothunter wrote: Now I’m jealous, its hard to beat an evening on the coast after waterfowl.
Lying out under the moon after fighting geese is my next favorite.
Our season started on the 1st. but I wait until we get a frost.
What is the broadhead you are using?
Are those DIY decoys.
Mark.
Old flambuae floating shells…some are missing heads as they are not made anymore. The boxes are homemade. The broadhead is a razorhead.
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