[Troy Warner]

in reply to: LL Bean Anniv Hunting Shoes #11245

Dave,

The uppers are actually a bit stiffer with the unfinished leather. I have a pair of the 10″ and a pair of the anniversary boots and after waterproofing 3 times the uppers soften up very well especially in the high movement areas, but, they don’t seem so sag at all. Once the uppers were broken in I have noticed I actually prefer to wear these over the 10″ for a long day of pheasants or deer hunting, I can’t seem to figure out why that is. Maybe it’s just that I used them on my back country elk hunt and just like to wear the gear I used for that hunt.

Luck

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: LL Bean Anniv Hunting Shoes #57751

I ordered the anniversary boots back in August and had to pay 1.50 for the speed lacing hooks to be added. I just told them that if I couldn’t have the hooks I didn’t want them. I used them for my back country elk hunt and they held up quite well. These are my second pair, so here is my penny and a half of thoughts, if you don’t wear a whole size in regular boots I highly recommend to Oder the next half size down, say you wear a 9.5 order a 9 it will leave room for a pair of heavy socks but won’t be to loose with light weight hiking socks. If your feet move around in them, I recommend a tighter fitting boot for steep rocky terrain or your toes could get a rug burn from slipping around in them. (I had to tape my toes toward the end of the hunt so i could hunt all day). For hunting at home I use them exclusively until the temps get down below 10 degrees then switch to my schnee extreme packs. What ever you decide these boots give plenty of arch support,(extremely high arches may need to change out the removable insole) and the ankle support is good.

Good luck

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: My toes are frozen……. #48324

Schnees extreme pac boots and a good pair of wool socks, my feet stayed nice and cosy snowshoeing for late season deer and pheasants. I’ve been out in 15 below with those boots and they were great.

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Anyone ever use these heads? #53235

Look at razor archery they have some good single piece screw in broad heads. All steel. http://www.rayzor-vpa.com/main.sc

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Balance #43881

paleoman wrote: I don’ t disagree in theory. Are you saying throw your boots away when it’s 10 degrees out? If so, you first:D

That’s what the mucks are for.

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Looking to plan a Dream Elk Hunt #40823

I have hunted elk with a rifle most of my adult life with the exception of the last four years when I started my quest for an elk with a long bow. With that said even when I lived in south western Colorado 5 days wasn’t very long. After leaving Colorado for the service I have tried to get back for hunting at least every other year for the last 20 years.

On my hunts I try to get things set up so I have at least 12 days for my trip more if possible, 2 travel days to camp, 1 day to get acclimated and pick up last minute groceries, minimum of 6-7 days of hunting, 2 travel days home. Since I have all of the camping equipment now my actual cost usually runs at $1500.00 total. That is one either sex elk tag(550), gas, and food, maybe a motel if my friends aren’t home when I pass through. Could be higher if you want another tag like a bear or turkey tag. Now that 1500 is one my higher side.

Good luck

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Have You Gotten Lost? #37178

Depends on a persons own personal definition of lost. My definition of lost is some one had to come find me. So borrowing from the movie Mountain Men, Brian Keith’s character said “I ain’t never been lost…, I was God awful confused for a week or two, one time”.

So in the spirit of that quote – I’ve been confused for the better part of a morning in a very remote rugged part of Idaho on a recent hunt, and one other time, most of a day in colorado, in an area I actually grew up in and thought I new like the back of my hand.

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Let's see your feathers #48695

Crystalshrimp,

I am using steel force 300 grn screw in single bevel broad heads, they fly as well as the field points. I ordered mine from three rivers.

I have been shooting field points and small game thumpers as well as the broad heads with the same arrow with out having to make adjustments to my nock point or brace height, I just need to concentrate on my form and release. Concentrating to let off preasure on my third finger seems to help with my form and release, thanks Mr Breeding!

Oh… and remember to pick a spot.

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Let's see your feathers #47603

I also followed Troy Breeding’s advice and it makes a difference in the release.

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Let's see your feathers #47598

I have had trouble bare shaft tuning also and have made a fine set of 4 rock chucker arrows!

If your not drawing more than the 27″ your bow is rated at you may be over spined.

Having a similar set up 51.5@26, I ended up fletching 3 arrows(Easton traditional only 400) and starting at full length (32″) with 100 grn brass insert and 300 grn field point.

( This method is mentioned in TJ Conrad’s traditional bow hunters hand book, but he used bare shafts and fletched arrows, i just used the fletched shafts)

I shot three rounds of three arrows as consistent as possible on anchor and release, shooting as normal with a slight cant of the bow. If all three rounds went right of point of aim and showed a nock left I cut the shaft 1/4″ until the arrows where close to hitting point of aim and showing a slight nock left then I started cutting only 1/8″ or less until all three arrows where grouping in or immediately around my point of aim. They may look just a hair off by nock left or nock right in the target but all I or my helper( read deicated understanding wife ) can see while in flight is the fletching spin evenly all the way to the target. I ended up with a 731 grn arrow with 400 grns up front and a length of 30 3/8″ from valley of nock to back of insert.

I did have to adjust for nock high or low about every third cut so I would get a good consistent grouping three rounds in a row.

Good Luck

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Tuning struggles #42944

jpcarlson wrote: So the process goes on trying to get these arrows flying. I took advice and moved my adjustable arrow plate on the riser of the old bear bow out as far as I could while still allowing enough space for the arrow to rest on the shelf. well, i found the arrow I had been tuning was then to stiff for that much past center so I started backing it in. I found a spot about in the middle where I am still tail left, right impact indicating week spine.

My question is this;

If I am under standing this right, I am actually also tuning the shaft as i tune the adjustable side plate in and out, changing my distance from center shot on the riser, right? Can I find the sweet spot with the shaft I have been tuning (so I don’t have to throw away a good carbon shaft)where I am still slightly week,and make small trim cuts from there?

I guess I am reluctant to move the plate all the way out as I can move it out 3/4 of an inch or more and my arrow is pointing off into left feild something fierce!

Also, the shorter my tuned shaft ends up being, the more FOC I will have due to more weight up front and less weight in the back, right?

Thanks for any help guys!

Jans

If you decide to cut your arrows down since you are close to what you may need for spine I recommend that you not take off more than 1/32″ at a time to change your spine. It will seem a very slow process but patience in tuning will save good arrows from becoming rock chuck arrows.

Good luck

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Recommended arrow choice #29637

Thanks Dave, I am going to Idaho in three weeks for an elk hunt. I have been practicing out to 35-40 yards and the heavy arrows are fly very well. When I move inside my max range for shooting game, which is a self imposed 20 yards(these arrows fly very flat at 22 yards), I am putting 4 arrows inside a 3″ circle. When I practice with the broadheads on I have been inside the circle 8 out of ten shots the 2 that were outside the circle were out only by 1-2″. I am becoming more and more confident in these arrows the more I practice.

I have started looking for an arrow that will be lighter by 50 grns for deer season here in S Dakota.

Thanks again

Troy

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Recommended arrow choice #28258

Ok I was able to drop 12 grns on the 400’s by cutting the fletch down a half inch and trimming the wrap so it just wraps once with no over lap. They seem to fly even better with the shorter fetching. I am contemplating removing the wrap completely.

With everything I have read so far I believe that the heavy arrow is the way to go, I will just cut my max shooting distance on game down to less than 25 yards.

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Tuning struggles #15384

I just finished tuning my arrows, and after making one permanate stumping/rock squerrel arrow, I preach pateince especially when you get to the point your arrow is bearly off to the left, start cutting 1/8″ or less. I really recommend less. 1/8″ to much can make it to stiff. I prefer to leave my arrows just bearly to the weak side to compensate for a poor release and loss of grn weight due to sharpening broad heads.

For the tail high move your nock point down if tial low move nock point up. If it is radically high or low you can move up to 1/4 inch at a time but as stated above when it is close a 1/16th of an inch can make a difference.

The finger pressure idea is worth trying, but I have enough of a problem keeping equal pressure on the string and releasing completely clean without adding more for my simple mind to sort out.:?

I hope I didn’t get any of that backwards.

On targets if you know some one that heats with a wood pellet stove the bags the pellets come in work great for stuffing burlap bags, they are thick and heavy enough they don’t poke out the back side of the bag.

Good luck

[Troy Warner]

in reply to: Carbon arrow shaft choice #49941

Thanks guys the input has been helpfull.

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