[tombow]

in reply to: HOW MANY HAD TAG SOUP AFTER TURKEY SEASON/ #34348

WAYNE!! Got to say it–got to get out as much as you can to kill birds.

If it weren’t for tag soup some years, why, I’d STARVE!

Some times it seems easy to kill a turkey, other times they will drive you nuts, hanging up just out of range, or they see your decoys from 1/2 mile away and are gone, or they see your eyeballs move and, SKEEdaddle. From my experience, it ain’t easy but durned if it ain’t fun, too!

Better luck next time. Were you hunting out of a blind (commercial or “natural material” blind)? A ground blind makes it much easier to get them close.

Look at it this way, you may not have gotten a bird but you supported your state’s wildlife managers.

[tombow]

in reply to: Tuning wood shafts #33148

pewanogo wrote: Got into building wood arrows myself after reading so much about it in recent articles by G Fred and others. I had great success in the build and the performance as they shot great and were super quiet but……. was shocked to find after all the work (fun) and artistry of dipping, cresting and fletching that my carbons built up over 100grain heavier. All along I figured the woodies would come in heavier but that was not the case. The woodies shoot great, and fun to build but not the weght that I expected.

Can you give us some specs such as: Shaft material, where you got the shafts from, finished arrow length, broadhead weight, which bow(s) you shoot them from, etc,? I’m going to start a new thread so I don’t hijack this one!

Thanks!

TomBow

TomBrissee

[tombow]

in reply to: Fletching tips #29961

My fletching has all been on 10% aluminum, 90% carbon shafts. I like to roughen up the end of the arrow to be fletched with light sandpaper, then clean with Acetone. I use a Bitzenburger jig to fletch my arrows and have had excellent luck. I use Lock-tite super-glue type gel, purchased a local hardware stores and have had excellent luck with adhesion and durability. The gel allows me to place the glue on the feather with precision, which I then smooth out a bit to create an even layer for the full length. I am a “thrifty shopper” and have found no need in spending more money on other fletching-specific glues. I have found that cap-wraps generally provide a bit more adhesion as referenced by previous posters, and they allow much easier removal in case of the need to refletch.

G.Fred Asbells’s book “Instinctive Shooting” contains the chapter (Chapter 10) “Handcrafting Wood Arrows” which will give you detail on wood.

“Shooting the Stickbow” by Anthony Camera also has a chapter 10 which is about fletching and is highly detailed. Both books are worth the money so I would suggest adding them to your collection.

I, too, like to cut down the leading tip of the arrow at an angle, and when I fletch I add a spot of insurance glue on the tip to add a bit more durability at that point.

I have not YET attempted wood arrows but I can’t say I won’t (see my wife rolling her eyes as I buy more “crap” to feed my traditional addiction).

Good Luck, YOU CAN DO IT!

TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: New to Archery #16408

With trad gear, arrow spine can be pretty critical. When I was getting my arrows figured out, I went through several sizes of aluminums, trying to find the right spine. I had to use heavy heads in order to get them to fly well. If you are just getting back into it, I would suggest working alot on form at close range. The DVD “Masters of the Barebow 3” has lots of good info on shooting blind-bale or blank bale which means shooting at a target which is about shoulder height from a close distance, say 10 ft. Then you work on shooting form, gripping the bow correctly so it doesn’t torque on the shot, using proper back tension, etc. Consistent form leads to consistent accuracy. There are lots of form videos on YouTube to get you started.

For targets, I use a large garbage bag filled with plastic sheeting and shoot blunts. The blunts minimize penetration and allow for easier removal from the bag. I hang the bag from the rafters in my garage and then shoot close up. Getting your correct form figured out will help later when you start shooting longer distances. It’s all about teaching your eyes and hands to work together to put the arrow where you want and getting a good release so the bow can do it’s job. I think some folks start out with good intentions but don’t pay enough attention to shooting form and they get frustrated and decide that it’s too difficult and give up. DON’T GIVE UP.

You are better off spending a little money on properly spined arrows, instead of trying to go cheap and finding out later that you have to buy different arrows because the spine isn’t right for your bow.

Best of luck,

TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: Toelke bow pics #62272

elliot,

I have yet to order a Whip but hope to be doing so at the end of this week. I spoke with Dan the other day and I will be ordering a 62″ Whip in the low to mid 50# weight. I will tell you after spending a few hours with him that Dan Toelke strikes me as someone who will go out of his way to make sure that you get a bow that will fit you and your style. Well worth a visit with him to meet him and shoot his great bows. As far as the cross dominance goes, I’m assuming you mean that you are left-eye dominant but a right-handed shooter or verse-visa. I know that some folks might squint their dominant eye a bit to get the other eye to take over dominance or just shoot so much that they are getting the proper sight picture and have trained themselves to shoot in spite of the cross dominance. There are ways to get around it.
Again, contact Dan Toelke and get your hands on one of his bows. I have not heard a single negative word about Dan or his bows. On the contrary, nothing but glowing reviews. He might have some good ideas to help you with your cross-eye-ed-ness.
Best of luck,
TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: Info on tuning your bow #57598

The easton tuning guide is good. I’d suggest to work on your form alot. I made the mistake of trying to find the right arrow (aluminums) before I really had consistent repeatable form. Start up-close to the target 10-yards or so and don’t be too concerned with where the arrows hit, just focus on form, gripping the bow from shot to shot, good use of back tension when shooting and feeling the shot, NO peeking at the arrow to see how it is flying because that will cause you to move or alter your position. Just hold the bow and your focus until after the arrow hits the target. When your form is consistent, then you can start the real tuning.

It helps to have someone around who can watch you shoot and can tell you if your are making slight mistakes in your form. Of course, if you feel your form is good by all means start tuning your set-up. Just remember, do what works best for you. It doesn’t hurt to get set-up suggestions from other shooters but don’t make the mistake I did by thinking that my brace height had to be exactly x-inches or had to match how another shooter had their bow set-up. Every body is different so do what works best for you.

A few book suggestions: Shooting the Stickbow by Anthony Camera, a very thorough book on shooting form, tuning and equipment styles. G.Fred Asbell’s books Instinctive shooting and Inst. shooting 2. I also have the DVD’s Masters of the Barebow 1 & 2 which has various shooters and the styles that they use.

Best of Luck and Nice Bow, Man!

TomBow

[tombow]

in reply to: Montana Trad bow shops #31225

Thank you Larry. Hear that it’s a 4-hr drive to Lewiston? I’d love to see the place but don’t know if the rental car will be headed in that direction…maybe. Knew a guy who had a nice Robertson longbow, might be worth the trip. Thanks again.

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