[tombow]

in reply to: Trad-Bow arrow speed & KE #24826

True my previously less knowledgable mind has been turned askew by being bombarded with “KE”, less so with speed. The (to me) numbers shown in the advertisements for the new compounds, relative to speed, are ridiculous overkill. Sure all bowhunters, regardless of tackle, want to make a quick clean kill. This is the reason for my questions, as I have come from the C bow world where there is enough KE to penetrate a refridgerator and the arrow will be there before you hit the trigger on your release. It is the lack of experience on my part concerning traditional archery harvests which makes me grasp at the straws of KE, something about which I have some knowledge and a bunch of experience with harvests. I do find myself moving from the technical into the more philisophical mindset as my traditional career evolves. Bottom line: I want to do my best to make a quick kill when I chose to wield my weapon of choice toward a game animal. When that has been done, then I will enjoy the “meat of the matter”, both physically and philisophically. Thanks for all your input. Sometimes I ask questions which I have an inkling of the answers to but it helps when those answers are fortified by the knowledge of others with more experience than I. Again, I thank you all.

[tombow]

in reply to: How to deal with mosquitoes? #18973

archer38 wrote: The repellant in the Thermacell is derived from the crysanthemum flower and (I’m told) harmless. I live in Northern Ontario, Canada and my family outfits bear hunts.

You’ve never seen blackflies until you’ve tried to skin a bear in Northern Ontario in early June. Thermacells work !!!

So shouldn’t I just bring FLOWERS when I go hunting?? Then I can give them to my wife when I come back home. DOUBLE BONUS!!:wink:

[tombow]

in reply to: Switching to carbon help #18969

Check out Stu Miller’s Dynamic Spine Calculator to see how the 100 vs. 125 gr. point effects the 3555’s on paper. You probably won’t see a big difference in flight, unless one of the combinations is very close to what you need. Of course, shooting one head, then switching to the other and shooting will tell the tale. Best of LUck!

[tombow]

in reply to: new looking for any advice #9141

Check out videos on shooting form on youtube. I have personally been taught one-on-one with mobow or Moebow who has several videos on rotational draw. Look one up then look at the others that he has posted. 3″ groups at 20 yards is pretty good shooting, well within the realm of hunting accuracy. You are doing well if that is your consistent 20 yard group size.

BEst of Luck.

[tombow]

in reply to: More on Fletching #48575

No problem there-guy. If arrow flight is good, consistent then I’d say that is something to cross off the culprit-list. You could try the powder trick, dust your arrow, feathers and all, shoot it then look at where the powder is missing and for powder on the shelf. That will tell you where the contact is, how much feather is hitting something, how much shaft is hitting something. I would then tune ( tweak brace height, nock point) until I had the least amount of contact. In theory, the least amount of contact means that you could lessen any effects on arrow flight and get cleaner feathers in the bargain.

DISCLAIMER: I’m by no means telling you what to do. Just putting ideas down to give you something to think about it. Hey, If I say something smart (ya, like that’ll happen~!) and it gives you an idea, well Yipee!

[tombow]

in reply to: More on Fletching #47878

Is the damage happening on the first shot with a new feather? Again, have you bare shaft tested so see how the arrows without feathers fly? I spine checked my carbon arrows this week and found that what I suspected was true, the arrows on paper (specs from the company) matched what I was looking for but bare shafting said the spines were stiff. The spine tester results showed that my 500 spine shafts were actually showing 400 spine. What arrows are you using? Do you shoot split fingers or 3-under? Maybe your putting alot of downward pressure on the top of the arrow IF shooting split or something is causing the nock end of the arrow to smack the shelf resulting in feather damage. Perhaps move your nocking point around a bit and see if you can get better flight. Feathers are so forgiving but my theory is that there is an extreme amount of pinch pressure between the shaft, the feather and the shelf to cause the damage. So many possibilities. Some bows shoot better with a slight elevation to get the arrow just a bit off the shelf. Put a bit of something under the rug maybe and see if you get better results. Experiment and Good Luck!

[tombow]

in reply to: More on Fletching #43866

I would guess that you may have arrow tuning issues if you are getting consistent damage to feathers. Have you paper or bare shaft tuned? Just saying, if the feathers are hitting the bow on each shot then something in the arrow paradox is incorrect. ARe you having feather damage issues with field points also or just broadheads? And where is the damage on the feathers themselves, leading edge of the quill?

[tombow]

in reply to: OK, you guys/gals have ruined me…. #43222

When I was a wee youngster, fishing/hunting-stuff catalogs were extremely exciting. All the fancy lures guaranteed to catch fish, fancy camping gear, cool! And fishing and hunting magazines were what I read most. Now-times I go to Cabela’s to find the stuff I’m interested in and find myself, like ya’ll, not buying a durned thing, ‘cept maybe a copy of Trad Bowhunter Magazine or some feathers. Their stuff just looks cheaply made and overpriced compared to the glossy pictures in the catalogs. And their traditional archery supply is relegated to a couple shelves and a few bows that seem to have been abused to no end. Guess I’m just not in their demographic as far as customer-base goes! I’d spend money their if they had something I wanted to buy. I’d rather shop at Mom and Pop’s Archery and talk with people who know what a “old fashioned” bow is all about and what arrows I should use with it. So when does my next trad catalog arrive?? The other ones are plumb wore out!! Wouldn’t do it any other way! Color me trad!

[tombow]

in reply to: A whole new take on ethics #42824

rwbowman wrote: I LOVE THIS BAR!!

Where we can thoroughly discuss the supreme absurdity which surrounds us each and everyday. But it is so great to be able to share these thoughts with like minded individuals. Crimeny Sakes Alive who’d a thunk there’d be others who, like a bow string, are just a little bit twisted like I am. Uh, sorry if I have insulted you….I done gone bow crazy!!!

[tombow]

in reply to: A whole new take on ethics #41676

CH doth have a point, regardless of how much we HATE that there is such B-U-L-L oney as purchasers of $100,000 deer “tags” and those who are all too willing to take their money. It is Free Enterprise in it’s most perverse state (of so called “deer hunting”. Let’s face it: there is every shade of color to what people think is acceptable behavior or ethics.

Let me go on the record as saying I whole heartedly disagree with this practice of engineering antlers. When’s the pedigree’d dog show going to be replaced by the pedigree’d DEER show?

Personally, I have numerous bow trophies to my credit and most of them have no horns at all and that suits me just FINE.

Oh and I WILL be chasing rabbits…..

[tombow]

in reply to: Indian Mohawk 55# bow #39827

Dacron would be the way to go, it has a bit of stretch to it that the bow will not have a problem with, FastFlight would likely be a big no-no, due to the lack of stretch. Don’t want to do damage to a new-old bow.

[tombow]

in reply to: new to archery too #39822

Welcome to a great pastime It may just become a huge part of who you are, a fiber of your being if you will. I would whole heartedly agree with what has been replied to you above. Another good book to look into is “Shooting the Stickbow” by Anthony Camera, a very detailed book on shooting,equipment and proper equipment set-up. I would urge you to get rid of the vanes ASAP as feathers will be much more forgiving of slight changes in shooting form. Shooting a bow is all about consistency and moebow has some great videos on YouTube concerning proper form.

The sudden change in accuracy would have me looking toward equipment issues. Check your arrows for damage, bent shafts, cracked nocks, etc. Also look at your string for broken fibers. If the string is damaged, or at least not in good condition, it may be stretching which will cause your nocking point to move and your brace height (distance from the deepest part of the grip to the string when the bow is at rest, strung but not drawn). You will learn many terms and please ask questions! You will find that trad archers are a wealth of information and are all too willing to help you out to understand the ins and outs of the magic of archery. Best of Luck!

[tombow]

in reply to: Right Wing Fletching #39807

Not familiar with the Bohning Right Clamp. With my Bitzenburger, I have a Right Wing clamp (“Right” is embossed into the metal of the clamp) that only accepts Right Wing Feathers, at least that is all I ever use and it works fine. On the feathers that I purchase, mainly Gateway feathers and always right wing, the quill or base of the feather extends to the left when sighting down the feather from the nock end or “fat” end toward the narrow end. Hope this helps. I do know that left wing feathers seem to be more popular and sometimes right wing feathers are a special order because the feather suppliers tend to have left wing feathers only.

BEst of luck

[tombow]

in reply to: HOW MANY HAD TAG SOUP AFTER TURKEY SEASON/ #34567

And I’m sure a lot more satisfying to shoot (the shrew). When it comes to turkeys, you just don’t know what kind of mood they’ll be in, one year they are running in to your sets, the next year, it’s like the live in another country! C’est la Vie, I guess! But travelling through the spring woods is a journey worth while, no doubt about it in my mind.

[tombow]

in reply to: Wood arrow specs #34352

Thanks fellahs. Yup, I have been ALL OVER the stu miller calculator since I discovered it. So far I have received responses which tend to indicate that guys are using a bit heavier spine than might be indicated by bow poundage. In other words, 55-60 pound draw weights using 70-75# spine shafts. Interesting. Is this case where heavier spine yields quicker paradox-recovery and better downrange flight?

Thanks again and best of luck,

TomBow

TomBrissee

[Author]

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