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You are right. That arrow shows terrible grain run out. You ahould violate no more than three or four rings for the whole length.
I like wool. I like camo. I like wool camo.
When it’s 65° in early bow season I don’t wear much wool. In later season or in January and February a nice wool outfit keeps the chill off. The pattern is less important if it is in the closet because it’s too warm or too cold. Be flexible.
Gigglemonk wrote: Are those custom scales on the izula? I really like that knife
Semi. BladeHQ offers them. The same rough Mikarta Esse and RAT use on their knives. I really appreciate the added grip. I had it paracord wrapped and after one deer it was a odor trap.
Not what you want in a neck knife.
Here’s another one of my favorites. A “Camper” laminated steel blade from Brusletto stuck in a piece of antler with iron pins (finishing nails) and a sheath I made. This has been around the block a few times and remains a great camp knife. About $25 in materials – if that.
Here are some of mine I think highly of.
My neck knife – my Rowan (Esee) Izula in a flat Kydex sheath. I have field dressed several deer with this one and it does it well.
Third from either end in this image – a Kershaw Knockout. I REALLY like this knife as a general purpose every day carry. It opens one-handed (and fast – spring assisted opening) and the blade is all sorts of handy for most tasks.
The SAK on the bottom is a Victorinox Camper – I keep this in hip pocket beside my wallet at all times. It has dressed many deer over the years and is all sorts of handy for multiple tasks.
And my Benchmade Activator 201. D2 steel that took forever to get sharp but has not been resharpened in two deer and many other tasks. This seems to be an ideal belt knife.
“Stumpkiller” is a camp name that come from a canoe-in bowhunt where we would meet at lunchtime and eat and then do a bit of roving. I liked the stump shooting as much or more than the hunting and got to be somewhat notorious for “delaying” hunting for an excuse to stump shoot. My mentor was a fantsatic shot (former NYS Champion archer) and, after a 80 yard shot that I connected and he (rare) missed he said: “C’mon “Stumpkiller”, lets go hunting”. The label stuck and I have gone by that on bowhunting and muzzleloading forums ever since.
I miss him greatly.
R2 wrote: So I’m betting the best anyone can do is follow the advice others have given to use for starting points. Sad to say about that old bow, I checked her over very carefully, strung her, put her down to go fetch some arrows and she blew just laying there.
I have only ever had one bow “blow apart” in my hands and it was a heartbreaker. The fourth shot on a used Red Wing Hunter I had just purchased and BANG! I always go slow with any unfamiliar bow, and this was with a B-50 string that I had let “rest” after stringing and worked back a few inches at a time and let-off until I got to my (over 29″) draw length.
The problem is you never know how a used bow was treated. A few hours closed in a car in the summer or a dry fire or six in its past and he laminations can be degraded. Mine had an arrow nock shatter and the arrow want to one side and the bow tips went everywhere.
The original Red Wing Hunters have scary fine tips. But boy, do they throw arrows.
Ouch! Upper
Lower
Happily I found a replacement of exactly the same draw weight! These are the four weight flyrod of the bowhunting world. I have two others of the later pre-Head and Head era. Best bow ever.
