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in reply to: Mechanical Broadheads #19522
If you choose to shoot a teeny shaft with piddly fletch you need a broadhead that isn’t a broadhead until it reaches the target.
To me that’s just an argument against teeny shafts and piddly vanes. I’m a Stos and Magnus II fan, myself.
in reply to: Dec/Jan issue #19518Mine still hasn’t arrived! It’s not fair.
in reply to: Dang Squirrels!!! #13107Great thread.
The best bowhunting shot I ever made was a red squirrel that was chatterring at me and running between two hemlock trees as I sheltered under a third one in the rain. After about an hour or so of his “CHEE, CHEE, CHEE” alarm call I was getting pretty fed up with this little guy and swapped out my broadhead for a blunt. As he ran along a horizontal trunk I led him and popped him in motion from 18 yards. We were both astounded.
No, I did not eat him; but for 10 years or so his tail hung from my back quiver.
in reply to: NY opening day #11106David Petersen wrote:
Charlie — I’m curious about the arrow wound between her front legs. I’m guessing it’s an exit wound and you shot her at a steep angle down, from a tree? DaveThanky, and yes, it was from a tree stand.
Busted.
I’m about 15 feet up and this deer was perhaps 10 yards from the base of the tree. But there’s more to it. My first shot was lethal but high (High rib near the spine and one lung). It “zinged” her enough (to borrow from Darren McFadden) that she went down instantly (only the second time that has happened for me) but continued to struggle. 20 years ago I had a horrible experience of a similarly hit 8-point buck regaining it’s feet and disappearing into a swamp. I searched for three days in waist deep water and never recovered it. That was not going to happen again. (In fact, I sent another 15 years before I again hunted from a treestand). That bad memory and the fact that it was raining and I’m fair but certainly no uber tracker made the decision for a second shot in her the sensible thing. That is the one that exited low between the legs.
I believe the wet limb covers, wet wool puffs, string and fletching made my first shot a bit of a “blooper”. I dressing her out and found massive bleeding, but a high hit with no exit can be an iffy blood trail in the best of conditions. Second shot passed through and buried the broadhead 1-1/2″ in a tree at ground level – and that is the one that passed through the heart. I went back today and dug that out and it will fly again.
in reply to: NY opening day #10154Good on you!
Found an obliging doe myself today.
45 mph gusts and 20 mph in between and raining two days after a full moon. Not what I figured would be a good day.
in reply to: Bear Kodiak Hunter #44229I run my K.Hunter at 7-3/4″. As a rule of thumb start at 1/8th of the AMO length.
in reply to: Sad to say….. #13237Heck, if we can’t bait ’em we’ll just have to make the fenced antler factory enclosure smaller. 🙄 Or put windows on both sides of the roofed and bench seated shooting blind. We could be out here all day waiting to shoot a buck. 🙁
in reply to: Camp Fire Trick #10453There was a song in the 70’s about an earthquake they had there . . .
“Shake, shake, shake. Shake Djibouti. Shake Djibouti.”
in reply to: Broadhead Edge #9375If the mechanics is the same as a knife blade the radiused edge carries more strength at the nose, as the head’s width is carried forward a bit more. In practice most heads of the Zwickey style (Zwickey, Magnus, Stos, etc.) have a tripled nose which gives way more strength than the radius alone. Then you look at other successful designs like the Hill and Simmons that have a negative radius. There is likely a practical trade-off between penetration, cutting, ease of manufacture and plain ‘ol “this looks good”. There is no question that the Eclipse and Journeyman broadheads just plain look good.
I like the straight edges for the ease of setting the initial angles on a S-24 Tru-Angle jig with files. And thereafter it’s easy to “field sharpen” a used head with a file I keep on my quiver. You can also hone a straight edge without the need to rotate the head as it is drawn along the stone. I find the Stos to be “self-jigging” if I lay them on a dummy credit card (the banks send me these regularly).
I’ve got a modest collection of glue-on heads and it’s a good mental exercise to look through them and wonder “why was this designed so?”
Unfortunately, the answer in many cases seems to give a nod to the old bass lure philosophy: a lure that sells well is more often designed to catch fishermen, not fish.
in reply to: An Old Coot's Contemplations…. #9334I will stand on my soapbox and support Dr.Ashby’s findings till “the cows come home”
I, more or less, do also. But I use a 125 gr single-blade, double-bevel broadhead and 30-1/2″ BOP cedar or Douglas fir shaft at 11+ gpp and by happy coincedence it comes out not being terrible by his observations. If it did, I’d probably still not change because that’s what I view as traditional equipment (and I’m to cheap to throw away 30+ years of accumulated bowhunting tackle and buy all new gear). If I eventually buy a 94# bow and gear-up to head off to Africa anytime in this lifetime I may follow his recommendations more closely.
Currently, I am guessing I couldn’t draw a heavy enough bow to throw an arrow to a suitable trajectory that would get 20% EFOC on a wood shaft that alone weighs 470 grains. Nor do I care to learn how such a thing would be calculated. 😀
in reply to: Camp Fire Trick #9325I just couldn’t spell “Djibouti”. 😀
in reply to: 67' Kodiak Hunter #9308Hi-ya George!
Nice K.Hunter. I have a ’73 in that oddball green Futurewood. Yours is a looker. They’re good, reliable bows.
Do good with your surgery. Hope you’re out flingin’ with that nice Hunter soon!
in reply to: Kinetic Pulse #8633Stumpy’s Postulate states that: heavy, sharp and fast beats any combination that substitutes light, dull or slow for one of the three variables.
in reply to: Camp Fire Trick #63413?
There are no colors that begin with “X” that an Ibex from Dubai could be.
in reply to: recommendations for a recurve #61812I’ll tell you my current favorite bow (I own six recurves and one longbow) is a 1966 Browning Explorer I paid $110 for. It’s 56# at my draw weight and will push a 650 grain arrow with sharp single-blade broadhead well beyond the off-side of a 200# whitetail. It is as fast and enjoyable as my custom recurve, though a tad lighter in draw weight. I would recommend you check out some of the classifieds for used bows.
And that way, if you find it’s not for you, you can sell it for what you paid for it. As noted above, recurve grip styles vary tremendously and they don’t all have universal appeal.
When I was bouncing between recurves and compounds I found it took as much effort to shoot a 70# compound with 30% letoff as a 50# recurve. Don’t overbow yourself starting out.
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