[SteveMcD]

in reply to: My Latest Project #39674

Hi, Patrick! Good to hear from you! Thanks!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Chopping wild turkey feathers. Help! #35614

Actually, the Wild Turkey is like a 747 he needs plenty of room to take off. One reason why it is best to call from the top of a hill. Turkeys are more likely to approach uphill that way if they need to make a fast getaway, running downhill makes it easier for them to get airborne. Furthermore, once he is in the air, the american wild turkey is capable of a flight speed up to 60 miles an hour.

Steve Graf wrote:
Setting aside all matters of economics and access to natural feathers, here is the question: If you want your arrows to fly straight, why would you use feathers from a bird that can’t fly at all?

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Which Hoot? #35608

Vey Cool! Thanks for posting!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Difference in wood arrows #30693

Spruce would get you there likely with a 23/64 diameter shaft. But, I would still recommend Doug Fir.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hexshafting ? Anyone heard of this? #29474

I have found Spruce to be a little lighter. I had gotten some spruce shafts one time (not Sitka Spruce just Alaskan Spruce – and they were very light and not very tough. I have gotten Hildebrand Sitka Spruce, which is a good shaft and you can ask them from heavier shafts. Personally I like the feel and penetration of a heavier arrow. So my preference is still Doug Fir or Laminated Birch.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Difference in wood arrows #28913

Check out my post from last year on Arrow Wood Characteristics.

https://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=A9153E2D-1422-1DE9-ED2CCBCCCDDFB8D4

I prefer Doug Fir the best with Laminated Birch next after that.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Hexshafting ? Anyone heard of this? #28908

Hexshafting is 6 pie shaped pieces of wood laminated together to make a single shaft. In theory it is supposed to be stronger than a traditional straight grained single shaft of wood and uniformly straghter. I have never tried them, but have heard both pro’s and con’s about their use. They are typically laminated hex lodgeploe pine, the design and lamination also makes them less flexible when crossing the paradox. So I would suspect the more center cut your bow, the better.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Thoughts on camo, fabrics, etc. #19080

I have to agree. Dark “Natural” Earth Tone colors seem to work best. I was never big on the camo fad. But with “hunting clothes” many times it’s hard to avoid. I look for functionality in my outdoor clothes, just like my gear. It usually tends to be NOT Camo, because paying 3X the price for the same cargo fatigue pants just because it’s camo is an insult to my intelligence. But like anything else as a consumer I look for function, fit and price.

Mankind has survived and thrived without hunter camo since the beginning of time. It’s only been the past 30 years that we cannot survive without it! 😆 :roll::P

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Thee Elusive Thunder Chicken #18703

We had a very wet nasty rough spring too. I believe none of the pulits from the first nesting ever made it. Appear to be nesting again.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Tradtional feather shape! #18498

Rip.. I like that – Beautiful work! I’m going to have to get me a Traditional chopper…..

Like your “arrow signature” too.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: My Latest Project #15149

Hi Steve G!!! Absolutely Not. Those footed shafts are in a case where they belong! I only take them out for hunting.

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: My Latest Project #14604

Homer.. thanks. That sounds pretty cool. Definitely gets your arrow where you want them to be. Which I think is why we make our own in the first place. That way we KNOW what we got.. we made them ourselves. Good going!

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: woodarrows #12377

RI Swamp Yankee wrote: Steve,
I understand all that. But the original question was about what spine arrow to use. I think actual arrow length has more to do with figuring that out than draw length.

Correct. AGain we are talking about a Recurve. If his draw length is 27 inches than 55-60 would be too much spine. If his draw length is 29 inches than 55-60 may be too litte spine.

Check out the 3Rivers Chart for more details –

http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/WoodChart.pdf

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: woodarrows #12273

RI Swamp Yankee wrote: Do we really mean draw length here, or is actual arrow length the more important factor in chosing the correct spine?

If 8Pointer is shooting a recurve then yes. Draw length is a factor. If a recurve is 45 @ 28 and your draw length is 27 inches than your total weight pulled by the bow is then 40#. With recurves the weight is incremental based upon draw length, with longbows 45# is a static weight and remains 45 regardless of draw length (over drawn will result in some stack, but not an issue here).

[SteveMcD]

in reply to: Great Books for Shooting #10769

David Petersen wrote: DWC — I for one have never read a how-to book on traditional shooting in my life. Maybe I’d be a better shot if I had. 😛 Thanks for sharing this info. dp

Nope.. Probably better off if you don’t. I think some folks think about it too much and get all tangled up in their drawers.

Actually I have read quite a few. Understanding Winning Archery, Instinctive Insights, Instinctive Shooting, Become the Arrow, Hitt’in Them Like Howard Hill to name a few. They are all good, but you still have to adapt and use what works best for you.

KISS – keep it simple… just go shoot and have fun!

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