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in reply to: Cock feather orientation #8090
I’m done with cock feathers since using two RW 4 inch feathers. Quite and true flight,simple,tad less expense,lays better in the quiver,faster to glue. Try it!
in reply to: Sorry….Just a pet peeve of mine. #49909:lol:Which one is your bench?? Could not help it.
in reply to: A few things I've learned #7796The GUTLESS technique,enough pack for a good load of meat back to the truck, decent emergency kit.
in reply to: help with antelope hunt #53429Consider a blind at a fence crossing also.
Antelope do use their noses contrary to some experts opinion.
Find a single buck(preferably blind) near a gully,ditch,brush,etc. to improve stalking odds.
You have better ways to spend your time than stalking a herd in the open.
LUCK and PATIENCE will get it done.in reply to: Mechanical Advantage question #16293Single vs. double bevel is less an issue of MA and more an issue of rotational torque to split bones as I uderstand it with all else being equal. If MA is affected by bevel design I think it would be minimal.This is only my best guess w/o research to prove it.
in reply to: Help with fletcher! #16279I use a Bears Paw which works great and is reasonable cost from Kustom King.
in reply to: efoc vs arrow integrity #61501The insert/outsert tells me that at least mfgs. might be listening to a product need. In conjunction with the internal footing a person might really be getting somewhere.
in reply to: efoc vs arrow integrity #60284Interesting new insert/outsert at http://www.trophyridge.com
Thoughts?in reply to: efoc vs arrow integrity #58853I believe most carbon arrows are engineered for light, fast compound set ups. Researching “tough arrows” gives Grizz stiks, AD hammerheads, CE heritage ,and Easton fmj contenter status. Here are some observations from stump/field type of shooting with a 63#recurve and a 70# Mathews(easy now).
I used 300 fmjs (skinny,expensive,h.i.t.insert) and Easton epic shafts(standard dia.,inexpensive,standard insert) because I already had them. Keep in mind the 2008 force graph of the bending shafts.
1) Approx 40 gr. Alum. Insert and 100gr. F.p. Both shafts hold up quite well to a variety of impacts such as oblique boards, frozen ground, trees, etc. Some blown nocks or cracked shafts on only the most severe impacts. These are low weight and low foc set ups like the compound pro shop recommends.
2) Add 100 gr. brass insert and 100 gr.f.p. Things get more interesting with more nocks blown,cracks and complete shaft fractures,some flowered insert junction fractures. Now the fmjs are definitely better survivors. Really, somewhere in the 75% survival rate when trying to damage the shafts.
3) Add 100 gr. brass insert and a 250-300 gr.f.p. Now let the carnage begin! All the above at an alarming rate. Plus the fmjs are quite easy to bend(internal fracture) behind the insert when ricocheting a shot off frozen ground. Direct hits bulge the point eng of the fmjs as the insert is driven into the shaft. I would not feel safe shooting the epics twice into anything other than a quality target at this weight/foc !
4) Aside note is the epics are easy to break when a standard bag target falls forward onto them. The fmjs are not damaged in this case.These are just observations and this is not quality research but one gets the idea of momentum and bending forces in action.High K.E. does not seem to ruin much stuff.Internal footings!? Heck, maybe I’ll try some Hammerheads next. Come on guys, volunteers vs. Grizz Stiks vs. C.E. Heritage would be great fun and save the rest of us some cash!
in reply to: PAYING FOR PERFORMANCE OR NAME? #51400BW and a few other co’s have trial “test drive” programs listed on their sites which is a great deal. Now if only high mile pickup trucks increased in value like a 60 something Bear takedown…..:lol:
in reply to: Moving target plans #45660Have a kid drive a radio controlled car with a balloon attatched.The kid will have just as much fun as you. Heck, you’ll probably want to trade between the driver controlls and the bow.It does not have to be engineering 400!
Buy a good pack that fits your kid!:lol: I’ve been researching also and I’ll summarize.First decide on use,size,max #’s to be hauled, external or internal frame, versatility needs,and budget.
1)Dream packs: McHale customs(internal)or Barney’s from Ak.for external frame and huge,heavy loads. 2)Best semi-custom: Mystery Ranch by Dana Gleason in Bozeman Mt.and Kifaru by Patrick Smith in Colo. These are both outstanding internal/ sort of external frame hybrids with excellent pedigrees. They can handle heavy weight loads over 100#’s,have great warranties,are very versatile, etc.People swear they put Badlands and Eberlestock to shame with heavy loads. 3)Sporting store packs:Badlands,Eberlestock,Sitka,and various mountaineering brands such as North Face,Gregory,Osprey, etc.These work well for most and are more affodable.4)used:Kifaru,Dana Designs Terraplane and Astraplane(Dana Gleason),Gregory Denali Pro and a good old Kelty external frame with a new upgraded hipbelt.
This summary is from a compilation of hunting gear junkies including myself. And don’t ever forget a good Decker on a good mule!!! Me? Kifaru long hunter G2 will be next because of the versatility and options. Hope this helps.Getting in shape is more important than the dollars spent.Found this.Enough reason for me! http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/tf/lw/thread2.cfm?forum=23&threadid=198371&messages=10&CATEGORY=1
in reply to: tapered vs. skinny carbon shafts? #38400Thanks Dan
The mushrooms were caused by the fmj arrow bouncing off frozen ground and then hitting a pipe fence 10 yards distant so:lol: maybe not fair to judge. An elk’s shouler knuckle has broken alot of set-ups and I’m thinking about Doc’s findings that a completely intact arrow systen is paramount.
I need to re-read the tapered/parallel report but it possibly was written before the skinny shafts(H.I.T.) were widely popular?? ANY field repots are appreciated aspecially since I’m out for the season with an injury so I’m here to learn! -
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