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grumpy wrote: A year ago I needed the certificate to get a hunting license, so I called the town hall, and someone I didn’t remember told me she missed me, and sent the certificate to me.
Classic.
Welcome to the forum.
No idea if one is faster than the other, but I can tell you that either one is plenty fast enough to get the job done, assuming it’s paired with the right arrow. People were taking animals with bows long before anything as sophisticated as what we’re shooting now came along.
The Savannah is probably the best production longbow I’ve ever shot – smooth and quick and not afraid of a heavy arrow. Probably the only production bow I’ve owned that I regret selling.
I think it’s a really good position to practice from for hunting. I also practice a fair bit while kneeling and sitting on a low stump in the backyard.
two4hooking wrote:
Short bows….who needs ’em:twisted:
Ha. At some point when there isn’t snow on the ground, I’ll shoot a quick vid doing the same with my 64″ longbow (the longest bow I’m willing to own…:wink: )
I will never get the fun and excitement that I get from bow hunting when I’m out with a rifle. When I reach that point in the season where the rifle comes out of the man cave, I’m purely in “get it done” mode at that point. But sometimes it’s what you have to do, and I believe that whatever we have in our hands, we should make our decision and then put it to rest and go afield with a clear and resolved conscience. There’s nothing wrong with hunting well (rifle or bow), and putting good healthy meat in the freezer for family and friends.
R2 wrote: Reckon if I’d have used the tongue from an insulted boot it’d kept my hand warm:roll:
I’ve insulted my footwear for a variety of reasons over the years, but never to keep my hand warm – I’m going to have to try that!
colmike wrote: Jim
If I let enough scope out–I hope to find my anchor at the end of the rode when I haul it in.:D:D Trust this will help.
Nice one. And some people think that “runnin’ out of rode…” just came from a country song. 🙄I anchor a little higher and farther back than the corner of my mouth – index finger to my cheek bone. This gets the arrow up under my eye a little more.
I can’t seem to ever settle on this. I don’t really find any big advantages to a glove over a tab for my shooting, but there’s something classic and old-school about shooting with glove, to be honest, and when I’m shooting my “D” bows, it just feels somehow right.
But, I’m convinced I get a cleaner release with a cordovan tab. I also have yet to use a glove that doesn’t eventually develop a crease on the stalls, no matter what the material is, leading to some degree of ‘hang up’ on release. On some gloves it’s been so bad that even though the rest of the glove was still in great condition, I couldn’t shoot with it anymore, which seems like a waste. I haven’t had this happen with any tabs I’ve used.
I can also buy a couple good cordovan tabs for the price of one good shooting glove, and I can wear a tab with just about any glove when it gets colder, without having to cut the fingers off. And when I need to do things in the field that require finger dexterity, it’s easier to flip the tab around than take off the glove.
So lately, after using a glove all summer and enjoying it, I’m shooting with my favorite tab again – the Bateman Bubba. Like you, Patrick, I’m sure I’ll stick with it “forever!” 😉
Update – I’ve been using Schnee’s insulated pac boots as my “go to” winter boots for years, but earlier this year I bought a pair of their uninsulated “Guide” boots for early-season hunting, and used them quite a bit until it got too cold for an uninsulated boot. While they are more expensive than the Bean Hunters, I’m now convinced that they are worth it.
Why do I think they are worth the extra $$? They have a more sturdy sole than the Bean boot, thus a little better support, without giving up any of the sensitivity and quietness that makes this type of boot so great for stalking. They have thicker, higher-quality leather in the upper. Additionally, heavy leather ‘tongue savers’ are included which increase the longevity of this part of the boot.
Also, the last time I ordered a pair of Bean boots, I was told I had to order them either with all speed hooks, or all eyelets – I couldn’t do 1/2 and 1/2. This is silly, imo – ideally a boot should have eyelets on the lower, exposed half of the boot where you don’t really need speed hooks anyway (and where hooks tend to snag/catch on stuff in the field), and speed hooks on the upper half of the boot that is protected by your pants. The Schnee’s are set up this way – no special ordering involved.
Frankly, the last pair of Bean boots I bought just felt a kind of flimsy in comparison to the Schnee’s Guides.
Schnee’s has the same “no questions asked” guarantee and excellent customer service that Bean has, in my experience. Their pac boots are handmade in Montana, and are completely rebuildable for a reasonable fee. But you probably won’t need to look into that for a long, long time.
