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Those Schultz videos are classic.
When Greg posted this last week, I thought it might be April or May before I could get some seated shots outside again without sitting in snow. But it’s warmed up quite bit this past week, and as you can see, what was a foot and a half of snow in the yard last week is mostly gone.
Figured I’d take advantage of it, and practice some shots while sitting; 12 yds. from the target, with a 64″ longbow. What surprised me in looking at the video afterward was that my cant angle was not as extreme as it felt like when I was actually shooting. Good practice…
A few other things I’ve noticed from shooting this way:
1) Not too surprisingly, this is a limited mobility shot. I can rotate about 50deg. to my left and still get a more or less proper draw, but I can’t move to my right much at all, without it being a difficult shot to execute properly. A good thing to remember when I’m setting up for hunting.
2) I have to be mindful to rotate my draw hand so that it is still in alignment with the string at full draw. It’s easy to keep my hand more vertical than the string is, and by doing so torque the string.
3) Maybe it’s just me and what I’m used to, but this seems like an easier shot/position with a longbow than a recurve. I’ll have to try it someday with my recurve and see if it’s just mental or not, but I suspect it has something to do with the grip style of a traditional longbow, making it easier to rotate to different angles with more cant?
Another way I sometimes prefer to carry a smaller fixed blade, when I don’t want one on my belt or I’m wearing a pack with a waistbelt:
These pocket sheaths ride nice and slim, and keep your knife upright in the pocket. I usually either carry it in a front pants pocket, or the side pocket of a coat.
Glad you like them, David. I’ve certainly spent that much (or more) on gloves that weren’t half as nice!
Steve Graf wrote: But with wood arrows, it’s important (according to them that know better than me) to make sure the grain run out is pointing away from the archer on top of the arrow. That way, if the arrow should break, in theory the arrow will move up and away from the bow hand instead of down and into it.
Ah – gotcha. I didn’t realize that what you were saying before was wood arrow-specific. Makes sense.
Steve Graf wrote: Is it really a big concern? I don’t really know…
Good question. I wonder how much the archers of the distant past concerned themselves with these details, or whether we just overthink things, cuz we have a hard time accepting simplicity?
Steve Graf wrote: There was some sorry info in that link. Two examples:
– Bare shaft tuning is a waste of time – couldn’t be farther from the truth in my opinion
I thought that was pretty odd advice as well. Esp. the reasoning he gives – that it’s “impossible” to be consistent enough to get useful results, and that it’s “time-consuming.” 🙄
What I have found is that with field points, it makes little difference how the fletching is oriented. But when I put broadheads on the arrow, it seems like they fly way better with the fletching aligned like you have them, Xing the string.
Exactly what I’ve observed as well.
I am playing with some wood arrows and thinking of switching over to that. If I do so, I may be switching back to 3 fletch. Not for any arrow flight reasons, but because it is important to put the arrow on the string correctly and not upside-down for the aforementioned safety reasons. 4 fletch makes it easier to stick the arrow on upside down.
Ok, you lost me here a little – if my fleching is oriented as it is in the above pic on all of my arrows, how is there a chance that I could put it on the string “upside down?” In my experience, one of the benefits of a 4-fletch setup like I’m using is that I don’t ever have to look down and see that it’s properly aligned when I put it on the string. Can you elaborate?
Very good Jeff K. quote in your sig, btw.
Doc – that is one sweet puuko. Not sure I’ve seen one quite like that, with stacked ram’s horn before. But knives are meant to be used – carry that thing!!
Rather than start another thread, I figured I’d throw this in here. A question for those of you using 4-fletch – how do you prefer to orient your fletching when the arrow is nocked, and have you played around with it at all? Noticed any advantages/disadvantages to particular orientations?
I orient mine to 45/135/225/315º like this:
It’s worked fine, as far as I can tell, and I’ve never really given much thought to orienting them any other way. But I came across this link the other day (scroll down near the bottom) and it got me thinking. Has anyone else experienced ‘arrow kick’ as a result of 4-fletch orientation?
Right on, Alex – glad to see you’re still gettin’ after it!
I came across this the other day, and thought it was worth sharing here:
Let’s see a pic of that quiver, Mike. And I’m assuming you’ve ordered a “D” bow to go along with it?
