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stykbo wrote: May I ask a question? WHY do we want such heavy broadheads 200-300 gr.)??
I am 65 yrs old, been bowhunting since 1968…back when Bob Swinehart was writing for “Archery World”??? I eventually learned and insisted on perfect arrow flight. Perfect is when you say it’s perfect. I have shot Zwickeys and Snuffers primarily (125-150 gr) and POC arrows. I will not shoot carbons. My bow is 50# @ 28″. I have 27″ draw. I almost always got pass throughs (I shoot close) and have not lost deer. Why would I now want to go to 200-300 gr broadheads?
I can only tell you why I like heavy broadheads, and the reasons are several;
1) The primary species I hunt are elk. I like to hedge my bets. A high-FOC setup increases momentum, and therefore penetration, particularly in less-than-ideal shots that might hit bone. I strive for perfect arrow flight, but that doesn’t mean I assume that every shot I take in real-world hunting circumstances is going to be perfect.
2) I find that high-FOC setups, when combined with the right shelf cut, are actually quite easy to tune.
3) Because I have yet to find any downside to increased FOC, and when combined with the benefits mentioned above, it’s a no-brainer, for me. While I tune my setup for large game, it works just fine on anything smaller. The opposite can’t always be said.
Everyone must come to their own conclusions. I just highly encourage people to come to conclusions after having experimented extensively with these ideas, rather than before.
in reply to: Off Season Gear Storage #12411Hunting clothes go in a Rubbermaid bin with a few cedar blocks. There is no “off season” for the rest of it.
I have yet to find a spine calculator that is oriented to, or useful for, higher FOC setups. So I don’t bother with them. I just start with a shaft that is in the ballpark spine range, a point weight that is roughly what I want, and keep tweaking until it flies right.
I’m shooting GT Trad 5575’s cut to 28.5″ with a 100gr. insert, a 225 gr. head and an additional 10gr. collar/washer. Flies great out of my #54 hybrid. FOC is 23.6%
in reply to: 40# for hunting? #12367Aaron –
What’s your draw length? Keep in mind that if it’s less than 28″ you will be drawing less than 40lbs.
in reply to: Your First Few Years Into Trad Bowhunting? #63613Etter1 wrote: Did you find traditional bowhunting to feel “right”, or did it seem like the hardest thing you’ve ever done?
Yes, and yes!!
in reply to: Tuffhead 225 gr. Penetration #44270Tombow wrote:
Then the next morning, I killed another deer making my total FOUR with the longbow! And FIVE animals total, including the gobbler I killed this spring! I have never killed 4 deer in a season before and I did it this year with my Whip! I am just a bit pleased. to say the least!
5 shots, 5 clean kills!
TomBow
That is truly remarkable, TomBow!! And a helluva lot better than my season has been. Well done!!
in reply to: Kind Of Sad Really! #44265“It’s not just the elk that are causing problems…”
Classic. The elk aren’t the ones causing that problems, period. And that vid offers abundant evidence of which species is.
in reply to: My toes are frozen……. #44240jfelkins wrote: One question I have is what is the best amount of thinsulate for elk season? None? 400? 1200?
Thanks for any feedback.
When and where, exactly? For archery elk season in most Rocky Mtn. states (typically Sept) I wouldn’t say any insulated boot is necessary at all, unless you have serious circulation problems. If you hunt later during general season, its still really going to depend – temps may be in the 60’s or you could be hiking through several feet of snow. New Mexico will be different than Montana. I know that’s not all that helpful, but the question is a really broad one.
The one thing I can tell you is that elk hunting often involves a mixture of sitting and moving. And when you are moving, you may be moving in steep, tough terrain that will warm you up fast (which means your feet will sweat, and get colder when you stop moving, as a result) Personally, 1200gr. Thinsulate would be more than I would ever need for chasing elk, but a lot of that also comes down to personal factors. For later season elk, 400-600gr. is a good way to split the difference.
in reply to: Machine-gun archery! #34963And to think that this actually pales in comparison to what their ancestors were capable of. No wonder the peoples of the Eurasian Steppe terrified the armies and people of Western Europe, time and time again – the Scythians, the Huns the Mongols and others.
Now imagine that rate of fire (or faster), with 100+ lb bows, while on horseback at full speed, swarming like deadly bees in no strict, regimented fashion as the Western Europeans adhered to, and then multiply that by 10,000 and sometimes many, many more. The coupling of the finest horsemanship known at the time, combined with the finest archers on the planet, produced armies that were unbeatable. It wasn’t until the widespread use of gunpowder that more effective armies existed.
I would highly recommend the recent 4-part Hardcore History series on the Mongols for anyone interested (and an earlier episode called “Steppe Stories.”
in reply to: The Election Buck #56431Good to hear from you and congrats on a fine buck, Alex! Welcome back.
in reply to: In love again for the first time #54599You can get 3-1/2″ parabolic TrueFlights from 3Rivers now. Although they come with the subtle disclaimer that they are for youth and target shooting. Ha. 8)
in reply to: Right Wing or Left Wing? #54186The only time I think it matters is when pairing with a single-bevel broadhead. You want the wing and the bevel edge to match, or your risk tearing a hole in the time-space continuum upon release.
in reply to: Have You Gotten Lost? #53030Gigglemonk wrote: Not even once. Why is this in the FOC forum?
That was a subtle gem. 😉
in reply to: Leave Strung in Woods? #53029I’d be worried about tree-climbing critter types chewing the grip for salt.
in reply to: In the Market For a Recurve #49688Thornbush Archery wrote:
First I was wondering what the optimal lbs is for accuracy concerning recurves? I have heard to go a bit lighter for better accuracy, but I still want to be able to kill a deer.
There isn’t really any direct relationship between poundage and accuracy. Accuracy with a trad bow, regardless of poundage, is a matter of personal ability/technique. With that in mind, I would strongly recommend a lighter-poundage (35-45lb) bow for learning and refining your shooting technique, i.e. improving accuracy. You can focus a lot more on correct form with a lighter bow. One of the most common mistakes made by those making the transition from compound to traditional is buy a bow that is too heavy to start out with.
Thornbush Archery wrote:
Second: My draw length is about 25 inches so I was wondering how this affected it?
General rule of thumb is +- 2 to 3lbs. per inch of draw length. As Lygooshka mentioned, the common measurement for poundage on bows is made @ 28″. So with a 25″ draw, you can expect your poundage to be 6-9lbs. less than the stated draw weight, assuming the bow was measured @ 28″
Good luck with it all, and welcome to a lifelong pursuit!
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