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  • smiley1
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      Post count: 102

      JMO. A 400 spine with only 145 up front is too stiff for that bow. Don’t worry about nock left or right. On a vertical line are your arrows impacting right or left of the line?  Since you didn’t mention it I’m assuming your draw length is 28″. Maybe try a 500 or even a 600 if you have access to them to rule out arrow spine being wrong. Again JMO. Good luck

      smiley1
      Member
        Post count: 102
        in reply to: Arrow Build Help? #142219

        The company recommends only cutting from the front of the arrow. When you are bare shafting wrap the insert in a very small amount of plastic wrap so it fits snugly into the arrow…that way it can be easily removed if you need to cut shaft to a smaller length. Make sure you are shooting into a soft medium so the arrow can be easily removed without losing the field point & insert in the target. I’ve been bare shafting this way over 12 years and have only lost a few inserts in the target. Once I had it figured out I haven’t lost an insert or field point. Go slow and remember consistent shooting form will give you consistent results.  There’s a lot of great information on proper tuning of a high FOC arrow on this site if you do a search. Good Luck, Steve

        smiley1
        Member
          Post count: 102

          Thank you Robin. Glad to hear Dr. Ed is doing better.  Agree 100% about his arrow leathality studies. It’s the most in-depth comprehensive study ever performed and for that all bowhunters should be grateful. Thanks Ed for all your time and dedication.

          smiley1
          Member
            Post count: 102
            in reply to: Second Bow? #137650

            Mainebowfly,

            The above recommendations are all good ones. If there is any chance you could make it to a traditional shoot you should do it. Especially one of the bigger shoots. There’s usually vendors with many different bows for you to try. The only way to really know if a bow fits you is to shoot it. Good luck on your venture into traditional bowhunting.

            smiley1
            Member
              Post count: 102
              in reply to: Compass ???? #137487

              That’s quite bizarre. I think we need a NASA scientist to comment on this one…..

              smiley1
              Member
                Post count: 102

                Adam,  personally I don’t like putting rope, wire, plastic tubes, weed eater cord or anything inside the arrow shaft. My suggestion would be to get different field point weights and experiment with arrow flight. A finely tuned arrow that flies as close to perfect as possible is most important for a hunting arrow. If you have access to an arrow saw, a few different field point weights and time to experiment you can find the perfect arrow to match your bow. I wouldn’t cut your shafts until you’re absolutely sure they’re weak to begin with. You may be surprised how much weight you can front load carbon to get a desired arrow weight after you start cutting. In my experience once you reach the 28″ bop length and below carbon starts to really stiffen up. Most guys don’t realize this because their drawlength dictates a longer arrow.  Good luck with your arrow build.

                smiley1
                Member
                  Post count: 102
                  in reply to: Tuff Head #135877

                  Best of luck Jason on your new venture and to Joe on his second retirement. Maybe Joe will be able to spend more time with the grandkids.

                  smiley1
                  Member
                    Post count: 102
                    in reply to: Newbie advice??? #133574

                    <p style=”text-align: center;”>I am far from an expert but I think you are correct in wanting to shoot a lighter weight to achieve proper form. You will gain about 2 1/2 – 3 # of weight per inch over 28″with your Sage. I would recommend getting 40# limbs (no need to purchase the whole bow) as you will still be pulling 45-46# at 30″. I would also wait to purchase a custom bow. Try to go to a traditional shoot with vendors so you can try multiple bows. You just may find out you prefer a certain grip style or even a hybrid or a longbow. Good luck and enjoy.</p>

                    smiley1
                    Member
                      Post count: 102

                      I believe you are on the right track. You already hunt so honing your skills to be proficient with traditional equipment is a progression in your adventure. Best of luck to you. Enjoy the journey.

                      smiley1
                      Member
                        Post count: 102
                        in reply to: Quiver mod #133316

                        Luckily for me anyway, Great Northern makes a longer hood option to accommodate my Tuffheads.

                        smiley1
                        Member
                          Post count: 102

                          Beautiful buck Ron.  Great story. Congratulations. Gotta love it when it all comes together like that.  Steve

                          smiley1
                          Member
                            Post count: 102

                            This is great news. Thanks Ed. I think it would be interesting to see how some of the newer single bevel heads compare to the ones already tested in earlier studies. It appears to me there were some good broadheads developed after your initial studies were made available.

                            smiley1
                            Member
                              Post count: 102
                              in reply to: Very light bows #126407

                              Last year i killed a 200# whitetail with a 43# recurve and my brother killed an even bigger buck with a 40# recurve. We both used 600 grain+ arrows with Tuffhead broadheads. With the penetration we both got I would say 40# with a heavy arrow and a well designed broadhead is plenty for whitetail sized game.

                              smiley1
                              Member
                                Post count: 102
                                in reply to: arrow diameter #124960

                                Preston, the only micro-diameter (.177 ID) arrows I have experience with are Victory VAP arrows. They use outserts and IMO they are not as strong as reduced-diameter (.204 ID) or standard-diameter (.245 ID) arrows. They usually break directly behind the ousert. I use aluminum footings on 9/32s and 5/16s arrows greatly reinforcing the front of the arrow. I have not found an aluminum arrow with an ID small enough to fit micro-diameter shafts so therefore can’t reinforce the front of the arrow.  If you were to foot a micro-diameter arrow quite possibly they could be as strong as 9/32s or 5/16s arrows. IMO the higher gpi shafts are the strongest because of the simple fact they usually contain more carbon material regardless of the diameter. Steve

                                smiley1
                                Member
                                  Post count: 102

                                  Interesting information Doc. A few years ago I was hunting bears in Saskatchewan. I was shooting a 50# longbow with 660 gr carbon arrows and Tuffhead broadheads. UEFOC was 31.7%. I shot a bear at 15 yards quartering away. My arrow penetrated the last rib, exited between the front legs and the broadhead buried into the dirt. The bear went 9 yards. One of the other guys in camp was shooting a 74# high tech compound with 4 blade replaceable low MA broadheads. He considered his arrows heavy at 480 grains. He kept talking about his KE being so high. He shot a bear with very poor penetration 4″ and couldn’t figure out why he didn’t get better penetration. They found the bear the next morning 200 yards from the shot. His hit was high but the only bones hit were ribs. My KE was about 1/2 of what his was but my arrow significantly out performed his. Steve

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