[sharpster]

in reply to: New Grizzly coming soon! #59392

Snuffy,

Grizzly BHDs are made by Grizzly/Woverine BHDs in Coudersport PA. It’s STOS that are made by “another big name company”.

I hope to have some of the new Grizz soon. Shawn had a limited supply at Denton Hill a couple weeks ago but they sold out on the first day!

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Just say'n hi… #58398

Hi Brett,

Don’t thank me… Robin’s the one who did all the work and she’s the one who deserves all of our thanks. This is a great forum and getting bigger every day. You’ll see a lot of familiar names and good people like yourself are very much welcome here.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: limb twist #56538

It can most definately be fixed. There are a few different techniques that work. I prefer to simply twist the limb in the opposite direction of the defect. I leave the bow strung when doing this and don’t be afraid to really crank on it. You’ll break your hand before you break the limb. Twist it well passed straight and hold it for a few seconds then slowly relax your grip. The limb can be straightened by doing this daily for 3 or 4 days.

Some guys like to run the twisted section of the limb under hot water then twist it back straight but in my experience, it’s easy to end up with a reverse twist that way.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Grizzly tough! #56523

Next, remove any factory burr from the unbeveled side of the blades with a file or coarse stone. Just lay the file flat on the blade and make a few passes along the edge.

Then start on the bevel side with a file or coarse diamond stone. Grizzlies have been through a few different factory bevel angle changes over the last few years. Depending on how new or old yours are you may need to remove a heck of a lot of material or if they’re more recent issue, maybe not so much. If you look at the above photo, you’ll see that the bevel extends slightly passed the center of the tanto tip. This is how I estimate a 25 degree bevel. They can be sharpened at other angles but this is Ed Ashby’s “optimum” bevel angle.

Work the bevel side with a file till you have raised a burr again on the unbeveled side, then switch to a coarse diamond or ceramic stone and continue to polish the bevel. Use as many or few grits as you like. As you do this the burr will continue to get bigger and heavier. Then with a fine grit stone, do just the minimum necessary to remove the burr from the unbeveled side of the blade. Strop the head on a piece of leather or better yet plain old corrugated cardboard and it should shave hair easily. Sounds complicated but after you’ve done a few it’s pretty easy. Let us know how you make out.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Grizzly tough! #56505

Michael,

Sharpening single bevel blades is actually easier than double bevels once you understand what needs to be done and how to do it.

The first thing I do with Grizzlies is to flatten the tip section. The bulge at the tip is actually excess braze that has bled out during the lamination process. I do so many of them that I use a belt sander but, if you’re only doing a dozen or so a file will work just fine. Just be careful to file the tip perfectly flat.

Soon as you get through the paint you’ll see that the metal beneath it is brass. Just file the brass off till you see nothing but steel.

[sharpster]

in reply to: Grizzly tough! #53321

Snuffy,

You are correct in your assesment. Depending on the type of steel, carbon content, and a few other factors, it is very possible to make a blade too hard and therefore brittle. But if the hardening/tempering is done just right for the steel being used, then you can get the best of both worlds. Very hard but not so hard as to be brittle. If either of the heads you mentioned were excessivly hardend, say to 65 Rockwell then they would indeed be prone to breaking. I think both these manufacturers have the recipe for their steel/hardening/tempering pretty well “Tuned” or we’d be hearing about them breaking instead of blowing through bricks, or even concrete. Thanks,

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: Grizzly tough! #53098

Yea, they’re tuffer than nails that’s for sure. The other thing I’ve found is that the Grizzly’s hard steel really holds an edge. We sharpen them for people and last year I bought a bunch of unground blanks to experiment with. I had sharpened one blade of an El Grande but the other was blade still blank. The broadhead had been laying around my shop for a couple weeks like that and even had some minor rust on the sharpened blade. I was about to start on the other blade but the sharpened blade was too sharp to be messin with so in attempt to purposely dull it a bit, I made 4 deep cuts into a solid block of aluminum. It still shaved! I made like 3 more cuts into the aluminum and it still shaved. I ended up taking the edge to some sandpaper to make it safer to handle. You’re right, single bevel or not, they’re tuff heads to beat.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #50710

Thanks for the invite Standing Bear.

Terminology varies from region to region and since Standing Bear is neighbors with Santa Claus, we just wanted to make sure the details didn’t get lost in translation.

(SB, to us southerners, when you say “double bevel” we think of a blade with bevels on both sides, as opposed to a single bevel which is ground on only one side).

In his diagrams Standing Bear shows what we might call a “Duplex” or “Compound” bevel geometry, ground on a double bevel blade. That’s two separate bevel angles ground on the blade edge- a “primary bevel” ground at a relatively low angle, followed by a “secondary bevel” ground at a steeper angle to give strength and durability to the cutting edge. This technique provides exactly the same benefit to a cutting edge that putting a tanto tip on a broadhead does for the tip: prevents it from curling over. In fact the two profiles are identical. When you look at a broadhead with a tanto tip, that’s just what a cross sectional view of a knife or broadhead blade with a duplex bevel looks like.

Most of us have heard the term “working edge”. To most of us it means a coarse sharpened edge like you get with a file or carbide type sharpener… That is not what SB is talking about. He’s describing the steeper secondary bevel of a duplex bevel, and it’s honed and polished to surgical sharpness.

The only other thing that might be unclear is “Manufactured edge” meaning- factory bevel.

Thanks Standing Bear, now you were saying…

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #49526

Well, well… If it isn’t my good friend ‘rick!!! (not his real name but, that’s an inside joke). Good to see you posting Standing Bear!

For those of you who don’t know him, Standing bear is a master knife maker and an extremely well versed authority on metalurgy, bevel geometry and sharpening. (forget it, most of us couldn’t afford his least expensive blade). He is one of the kindest, happiest, people I’ve had the pleasure of crossing paths with and his greatest pleasure in life is helping other people in any way he can. Standing Bear is without question, among the finest of of “the good guys”. We are blessed to have him as a member.

Now if this wasn’t a family oriented, public forum I could tell you what I really think about him! LOL

BTW, I’m sure he’ll deny it but most of what he knows about sharpening, he learned from me! How’d ya like that ‘rick??? Great Stuff! Keep it coming buddy, I’ll let you know if you’re wrong about anything…

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade Blood Trails? #21056

Michael,

Gonna be tough to find any good quality single bevel head in the 150 gr. range. Aboyer, Tusker Concords, and Grizzlies are available in that range but, they’re all glue-ons. Any special reason that you don’t want to use adapters?

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade Blood Trails? #21052

skrsr1 wrote: ok, I give. King? I GOTTA ASK!
God bless
Steve

Steve, David has one picture in particular that will explain the “King” thing without so much as a word.

How bout it David, I love that pic!

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade Blood Trails? #20172

King, I think that’s the first picture of yours that I’ve ever seen where the broadheads aren’t bloody! LOL!!!

Sent you a PM.

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: New Member #19871

Kentucky TJ… now where have I heard that name before…?:wink: Hey Tom, good to see you here!

Ron

[sharpster]

in reply to: 2 Blade Blood Trails? #19577

Wow! I have been away too long!.. Great to see so many old friends posting here. Thanks to Dave Petersen for the well deserved smack in the head telling me to get my butt back over here.

Looks like the subject has been covered pretty thoroughly already but, I’ll throw my 2 cents in… First, the phrase “2 blade slit” gets my blood boiling. You’ll only hear those words from people who either have never hunted with a quality 2 blade head, or those who don’t understand and fully appreciate how critical the level of broadhead sharpness is in influencing the amount of blood left on the ground.

Without even addressing the single bevels clear advantage, given that all other aspects of the shot are equal, the best bloodtrail will always be left by the sharpest broadhead. Not the biggest one or the one with the most blades. As stated, shot placement, complete pass through penetration, and a blazing sharp broadhead = meat on the table. Considering those critical factors before choosing a broadhead is a wise move. You’ll often hear “I’m only shooting whitetails so penetration and Dr. Ashby’s research doesn’t apply”. Really??? Do any of us whitetail hunters know in advance that we’re going to get a ground level, perfectly broadside shot? Do we know in advance that we’re certainly not going to hit any heavy bones? Many of us hunt from treestands and it’s a heck of a lot harder to even get an exit hole when shooting through a deer from the top down, and achieving a complete pass through is nearly impossible. How about quartering shots… is penetration an issue here? Clearly it is. Ed’s research and reports apply to all bowhunters not matter what animals we may be hunting and regardless of the equipment we hunt with, be it a stickbow or a wheelie bow.

One other aspect of game recovery and bloodtrails that needs to be considered is the animal’s reaction to the shot. If we can get the arrow to blow right though an animal and keep on going, often the animal will not even know what happened. Frequently they’ll jump and look around like “what the heck was that? Then just walk off with blood pouring out both sides and fall over within site. Now compare that to a non-pass through with any broadhead. Whack! That animal instantly knows that something very bad just happened and he’s headed for the next county at light speed. Which one would you rather have to track…? Even with a perfect double lung shot, it can take a deer 90 seconds or more to die and they can sure cover a lot of ground in that time. Now think about broadheads, which will generate more impact force to the animal as it penetrates and cause a greater flight response from the animal, a long narrow 2 blade head or a 3 or 4 blade?

Ron

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