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in reply to: KME website #26207
I was a skeptic but gave it a try last year. Now I am a believer the KME system.
in reply to: Fletching Jig Preference #25677Bitzenburger with fletch tite platinum.
Simple, durable, changes over easy from left to right.
in reply to: Keepin' It Trad… #53244I agree with the move.
in reply to: Arrow Wood Characteristics #51507Is someone making those IPE shafts you speak of or did you make them yourself? The reason is that I would like to try some and have had them on my “to try” list for about 12 months but didn’t see them anywhere I looked. Maybe I’m not looking in the right places.
in reply to: WYOMING ANTELOPE / ELK #50346I was lucky enough to draw and have one run into my arrow without having to set in a dusty blind just a few months back. I hope you can utilize that information I sent to you in a private message. Best of luck to you.
in reply to: Selfmade bow quivers? #46570Neat quivers.
I was out this weekend and saw a kids quiver made out of a badger pelt. That was neat too.
in reply to: Flemish strings #30111Not knocking the jig. It’s just not a requirement for a string. The assertions that they make a more uniform and sound string which breaks in faster are definitely subjective. Mostly due to the string maker and the materials used. In fact I think it makes it harder for people to learn how to craft their own strings because you have this complex looking peg board called the jig. Doing away with said device actually simplifies things to a degree.. I might even suggest learning the jig method later.
When is too much EFOC?
in reply to: Flemish strings #28964To get the end of the serving wound tight and reliably strong I usually loop about 9-15 times under a short strand of string and through a loop of that same string. Then I yank the loop (from the opposite end of the loop itself in a quick motion) and serving end back under with my fingers. Once in a while pliers makes it easier but it is usually not necessary. Once it’s under and back through I cut the ends so that they are flush with the rest of the serving which is wrapped around the string and that’s where I use a drop of Duco Cement.
The photo might make for more questions than I want to answer.
in reply to: Flemish strings #28729I have heard about people using clamps. I just use my fingers for everything and have not used any other tools. I could see how that might be useful.
in reply to: Flemish strings #28141I use the following to make bow strings. I am not going to attempt to explain how I do it.
* Knife to cut the string materials
* String materials – Raw B-50 or Dynaflite 97
* Serving thread
* Lil’ Spinner
* Wax
* Duco Cement tiny amounts for the ends of the serving materials.in reply to: Twisting Limbs #23862Steam has been known to be useful. I have never used it myself.
in reply to: Longbow Strings #20478My experience has been that it would be difficult to put too many twists on a bow string which is near the correct fit for a bow. Putting too many twists on a string is not something I have ever worried about. I don’t see how it could negatively affect strength unless there was a knot in it or some other oddity. I don’t believe it would wear any quicker than one with less twists.
I’m always interested in bird species around here. And that doesn’t necessarily mean on the dinner plate (which is where a few end up every year).
We have bald eagles, golden eagles, large populations of geese and ducks, blue herons, swans, grouse, and a whole cornucopia of other species.
When in the forest most of what I encounter are crows, ravens, grouse. The owls are there but are a rarity for me to lay eyes on.
I own a bird book which I often reference for identification.
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