[raghorn]

in reply to: Tuning stiffer spines than expected #50088

Wood shafts spine different depending on grain orientation. So if your nocks are not lined up correctly then your results are skewed.

You did not state your bow weight at your draw length.

Do you plan on putting broadheads and feathers on the wood

shafts to hunt with? If yes…then why shoot a bare shaft which give a different result?

Wood spine is marked to coincide with a 28″ draw length and a 125 head. so if your bow is 55# and with a 27″ draw then you would need 50-55 to start with. Adding broadhead you add 5#, so the 55-60 would have been good for a 55# bow. Adding the 160 head could make a case to go to 60-65, but it is not that big a difference.

[raghorn]

in reply to: minimizing the stuff we carry #53351

I am on our county SAR team so these situations are real.

Always have the ten essential items and keep them with you.

Updated Ten Essential “Systems”

Navigation (map and compass)

Sun protection (sunglasses and sunscreen)

Insulation (extra clothing)

Illumination (headlamp/flashlight)

First-aid supplies

Fire (waterproof matches/lighter/candles)

Repair kit and tools

Nutrition (extra food)

Hydration (extra water)

Emergency shelter

Classic Ten Essentials

Map

Compass

Sunglasses and sunscreen

Extra clothing

Headlamp/flashlight

First-aid supplies

Firestarter

Matches

Knife

Extra food

[raghorn]

in reply to: minimizing the stuff we carry #52107

Search for the 10 essentials you should be carrying in the back country. If you leave your clothes and you have to spend the night or have a long wait while somebody finds you, you’ll be wishing you had them. Even hunting small areas in the eastern part of the country bad things can happen.

[raghorn]

in reply to: Whoa! Troublesome. #49058

This is normal. String does not stay tight. This is what can cause arm slap. Changing brace height, silencers, release can all change/affect string oscillation.

[raghorn]

in reply to: matching tip weights #14320

Do you really think that 5 gr will make any difference?

Besides the fact that your Grizzly broadheads are longer than your field point and that moves the FOC forward and can change the spine.

[raghorn]

in reply to: Could this be the best knife sharpener ever? #30329

Also- the bottom of your ceramic coffee mugs.

[raghorn]

in reply to: Brace Height Bear Kodiak Hunter #63412

Where are you measuring the brace height at? Should be at deep part of grip throat 90deg to string. If that is where you are measuring then that string appears too long,you are going to have to come up 1 1/2 -2″

[raghorn]

in reply to: MA-2 heads #20985

Good for you!

Proves that a $10 to $30 broadhead doesn’t work any better.

[raghorn]

in reply to: great northern side mount quiver #41586

I may have misunderstood what you were saying. Angled back would mean the gripper is closer to the string than the hood is. Angled out would mean the gripper is further away from the riser than the hood.

Out allows clearance for the feathers from the limb and allows easier access to remove the arrows from the inside of the gripper.

Back to me places the arrow slightly closer to the shooter. The arrow nocks are aligned toward the bow tip rather than being in front of the limb. This is the setup I learned to shoot with from the early 1960s using the Bear bow quivers.

[raghorn]

in reply to: great northern side mount quiver #40440

IS it the quiver or the mounting holes in the riser? Angled back is better in my opinion.

[raghorn]

in reply to: Converting Browning compound to recurve #12735

You might ask this over on -Tradtalk- those are the guys that really get into conversions.

[raghorn]

in reply to: Converting Browning compound to recurve #12596

The limbs on the compound are unsafe because you feel that 30 years old makes them unsafe or is there a visible problem-cracks, splits, glass separating? There are bows 50+ years that are still being shot, cars that old still on the road.

There is more to it than just bolting another limb onto a riser. The most critical is limb angle. This affects performance and safety.

[raghorn]

in reply to: limb tips #48667

I disagree…………… I’ve fixed many twisted limbs and they stayed straight, or needed a tweak occasionally and after a few times would stay straight. It’s like working with a guitar neck, sometimes it takes awhile to get settled in.

[raghorn]

in reply to: limb tips #47951

Tiller is the difference between a point on the riser or fadeout and the string. The top limb should be 1/4″ more or so depending on the bowyer.

You have limb twist….just grab the limb around the tip and the limb near the riser and twist it the same distance to the opposite side being carefull so it does not unstring. Hold for a minute, then release. See if the string is centered. You may have to do this a few times. If need be the limb can be warmed- not to hot, if you can’t touch it than it is too hot. About 110 deg.

[raghorn]

in reply to: String grove silencer #42897

None….there is no need to add anything to the string or bow limb in this area of the bow. You need to look at other tuning items such as brace height, nocking point, string twist, string silencers, arrow spine & weight, last- is the limb twisted.

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