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in reply to: Ghilli suit #16635
Hi Clay, I have a few suggestions that may be helpful, avoid military Ghillie’s most have a ‘skid’ plate up front for crawling about the last thing an archer needs. If you use a commercial mesh based jacket sew the front up 2/3 and use it as a pullover this allows you to remove any fastenings, if its tight at the top of the legs slit it up the sides.
A welded mesh base allows you to cut it about without the material unravelling, go at least a size too big so that it will pull over your normal hunting gear, this will also ensure that the sleeves are long enough to cover your hands, cut out the palm area and put in finger loops.
A separate hood will move with your head so as not to restrict vision.Burlap is unbeatable, cut into strips about 2” wide as long as you like die and fix with commercial dies keeping some that original dead grass colour. If you can weather it for a few months takes away the smell and mutes the colours.
Using carpet adhesive (the type that remains soft, goes on white and dries clear) start at the base and work up glue on end and cut to length, no more than 4” long on the front, longer on the back and under the arms where you are trying to hide the transition from trunk to arm. Use colours in blocks and strips, always a shade lighter than the area in which you are going to be hunting, don’t worry about using local veg its just a pain, wilts in summer and looks out of place that’s when it’s not telegraphing movement. Same with the hood add an old baseball cap or similar if you like to keep material from your face, may have to cut the brim down, add plenty of tail to the hood so that the head shoulders become one.
Take an old kitchen fork bend the end 1/2″ at right angles and use this to strip the burlap DON’T DO THIS IN THE HOUSE.
Finally get a volunteer to go stand/sit in an area where with veg is the same colour as that where you are going to be hunting if necessary and it generally is take cans of spray paint the type model makers use and touch up area that you are not happy with.
joel_k_31 suggestion of netting is good use it up front to make a low hide to hide gear and legs, use it behind to loose your outline when cover is thin.
That’s enough from me, I’ve read smaller books, Mark.
in reply to: A REGRESS FOR MS BOWHUNTERS #16598Msarcher, being a pessimist when it comes to anything like this I would take this judgment as no more than a breathing space, it may be a good time to have ‘primitive’ defined, get a definition that is acceptable to the ‘primitive’ community and have it recorded for latter reference.
Just my humble opinion, Mark.
in reply to: brace height question #15807Hi, I would start with a minimum brace height of about 6 inches but guess you need more like seven. Shoot a few arrows at that and see how it performs.
Alternatively drop Clay or one of the other bowmakers a line.
Mark.
in reply to: Cane/bamboo arrows #13558Poplar was once widely used but the only folks I know using it now are re-enactment types. It has quite a lot of taper and is heavy when compared with cedar.
Mark.
in reply to: Hi Everyone #13216Hi Mike, welcome aboard.
Mark.in reply to: Let's build a selfbow #62046Clay, an excellent buildalong great to see the whole thing from stave to a shooting bow, I appreciate the effort it must take not only to make the bow but to document it also.
Good luck with the moose tag and looking forward to the trophy picture.
Mark.
in reply to: Flemish strings #62032Well it’s taken about a month, getting up courage and rereading all the posts but I finally did the deed and made a bow string:D (two really but I’m only admitting to one) and it’s not to shabby.
Found where I was having problems previously and it was just poor coordination on my behalf when making the loops.
So thanks to Hiram, Chris, Rayborbon and all the others that inspired me to have another go, it’s great to be able to do something our ancestors were doing possibly thousands of years ago.
Mark.
in reply to: For those who love Footed Arrows #60205That is a true blend of craftsmanship and art.
On the one hand I just want to marvel at it on the other I just want to see it fly.Mark.
in reply to: Looking for advice on draw weight #57400I agree with everything Steve has said the only thing I would add, from my experience, is that added weight made me far less accurate.
The older I get the less relevant age becomes you just become richer in experience. Although older and wiser seems to have passed me by.
Mark.
in reply to: subscription #57390‘if I were you I wouldn’t even buy green bananas’
Oh I’m so looking forward to using that line.:D
Mark.
in reply to: subscription #57388Posted twice
in reply to: Choosing the right bow #56525Hi Jakob, and welcome to a whole new world, if your neighbour belongs to a club tag along have a look see what others are shooting. Most traditional archers are pretty friendly and will tell you about their set ups and often let you have a go.
I guess then its a case of fixin a budget and visiting some stores, when you finally take the plunge buy from an archery shop or someone that knows about traditional bows they will be much more knowledgeable and helpful.
Check out 3 Rivers Archery they often have deals and the classifieds one here.
Guess that’s enough from me Ill let someone else have a say, Mark.
in reply to: tungsten-footed woodies; considerations #51828Hiram, Dave
I can see the reasoning in both arguments and experiments but can’t help thinking that heavier broadheads may be a simpler answer if you could persuade a manufacturer to keep a proven design and just use thicker material and include a longer socket on the broadhead to accommodate some ballast this would allow for tuning.
Just my observations, Mark.
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