Home Forums Bows and Equipment Cane/bamboo arrows

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    • Kegan
      Post count: 43

      Ok, I have some more silly questions. Thanks to Dr. Ashby and the rest of Tradbow, I’ve learned:

      1. Carbon arrows produce the best EFOC hands down, but need IF for durability
      2. Hardwoods are the most durable shafts, but have the lowest FOC

      So what about cane and bamboo? It’s naturally tapered, light and hollow, has a slick natural coating, and requires some sort of insert for points anyway. Since they’re not native in my area, my experience is limited, but it seems that it might be a viable option. Once could drill out the center pith at the point and insert a brass adapter with screw in two-blade point just like on a carbon, and then perhaps use a small, short piece of aluminum to foot it and help deter split-fractures. Cane seems to bend more readily, or at least take more bend without breaking, than carbon- like wooden arrows- but is light and hollow for good FOC.


    • Bert
      Post count: 164

      Trying some experiments with a bamboo shaft with your suggestions- will post results.
      Jim Boswell at Rudderbows sells straightened and heat-tempered bamboo- check out his tutorial on methods on the straightening tool location- steam, pancake grill and some cold concrete.
      Asians used bamboo arrows for thousands of years, so there must be something to them- don’t know why we don’t read about them more. Perhaps our good Dr. could shed some more light on the subject.

    • Kegan
      Post count: 43

      I know that there are still a number of southern archers who use cane arrows from selfbows, with the general opinion being they’re some of the best arrows there are. I think I might know someone who employs “Ashby tecniques” with cane arrows, but he seems to be one of the few. I’ll talk to him and see if I can find anymore out:).

    • Clay Hayes
      Post count: 418

      I used cane a lot when I lived down south. It’s a great shafting, tough, and easy to get high spines. The tough part is finding high quality material. There’s lots of cane, but few stands meet the “good material” marker.

      I always looked for lond spaces between the nodes, and no kinks. Most cane will be somewhat wavy, and that’s fine. You can straiten waves, but not kinks. It’s, by far, the toughest shafting I’ve ever used. It’s not as light as you’d think though. At least not the stuff I was using. But, since it’s tapered, most of the weight is up front.


    • Mark Turton
      Post count: 759

      Poplar was once widely used but the only folks I know using it now are re-enactment types. It has quite a lot of taper and is heavy when compared with cedar.


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