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in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #18162
As far as light weight arrows go, think of the extreme. What happens (or can happen) if you shoot a bow without an arrow? If you were to do this, you will be “dry firing” your bow. All that energy is contained in the bow and NONE is transferred to an arrow since there isn’t one. Laminated bows CAN start to de-laminate or break when they are dealing with all that energy being trapped in the bow with no place to go. With a VERY light arrow there is energy transferred to the arrow, but still some that has to be absorbed by the bow. So think of it as being close to the dry fire example. It is simply a fact that the heavier the arrow (to a point) the more energy is transferred to the arrow and the less is taken by the bow. That is why so many bowyers void their warranty if the bow is shot with arrows that are less than 8 grains per pound.
A bow stringer simply helps to keep you from twisting the limbs of your bow and is safer for the user. Most of the old methods CAN either damage the bow or worse if done incorrectly or without close attention can injure YOU. Use a stringer!
in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #17999Plus, I’d point out that the question was about QUIETING a noisy bow, Not hunting. 10 grains per pound has been a fairly good rule of thumb for many years and is frankly FAR from being “heavy weight.”. Shoot what you like Bob, you’ll get NO argument or criticism from me, I was just giving an IDEA to help quiet a noisy bow.
Arne
in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #16943What Smithhammer said! You MAY or MAY NOT be damaging your bow with the light weight arrows — BUT why take the chance?
Same with the bow stringer. Long bows are more resistant to limb twist than recurves BUT — Why take the chance???
in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #16918I was just making general observations about point on range, not trying to suggest that what is working for you is wrong. Aiming is an individual perception thing and can be different for everyone. For example, I shoot split finger and my point on distance is 56 yards and my perceived gap at 20 yards is about 2 1/2 feet (30 inches).
I will suggest that with your 390 grain arrow, you are shooting at 7.8 grains per pound which is REALLY light. This may be a very large part of your noise problem. Plus many bowyers recommend not going below 8 grains per pound. You are close to that but I think heavier will be quieter.
in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #16878I don’t see where you mention the draw weight of your bow. Knowing this will help a little but a GENERAL rule of thumb is an arrow weighing about 10 grains per pound of draw weight. So, if you have a 45# bow, a 450 grain arrow will be a good starting point. The noise issue can be caused by any number of things such as string slap on the recurve tips, arrow slap as it passes the riser. Finally, yes, it can be caused by too light weight of an arrow. Many bows will be quieter with heavier arrows as the arrow picks up energy from the bow. If the arrow is too light it doesn’t absorb as much energy and what is left over can show up as noise, bow vibration/shock, etc.
I’m not sure why you think that by raising the brace height will make you shoot lower. I would suggest that an inch and 1/8th change in brace height is a LOT of twists in your string.
In my experience, too, a point on of 20 yards is really a short point on distance. Most three under shooters find a point on of 30 to 35 yards and many split finger shooters are in the 50-60 yard range. You must have the arrow nock REALLY high on your face( very close to your eye) Not wrong just unusual.
in reply to: Practice makes perfect, Hopefully. #14607SM, Most archers don’t want to hear this nor do they want to do it. The fastest way to be able to hit something at various distances is to NOT try at the beginning. Set your self up at 6 feet and with the target at shoulder level and work on both blind bale and blank bale for the first month or two. You can absolutely concentrate on what you feel in your shot and will be able to tell when you should stop due to fatigue. Get yourself to a point where your form is repeatable and comfortable! DON”T WORRY ABOUT HITTING ANYTHING AT FIRST! Form first, form first and I might add, FORM FIRST!
If you have the self discipline to do this, then later when you try to hit something, you will have a solid basis to analyze each shot. I tell my students that if they will do this, they can be a pretty good shot in 3 or 4 months. If they insist on shooting at a target at various distances, they MAY (but probably won’t) be a good shot in a year or two. Your choice. FWIW
in reply to: Bow string release technique #12545Yes, Jimmy’s video posted above will give you some great ideas to try. I also have a video called “release tips” that may give some more ideas for you to try. You can get to my videos through the link below.
Arne
in reply to: How Many Over 55 #43500I’m 65 and can comfortably shoot a 65# bow. If pressed 75 but it is no longer fun to do that. I generally shoot bows in the 45-55# range, just don’t feel the need to shoot “heavy” anymore. I doubt the Cape Buffalo hunt is in the near future, so…
in reply to: Gearing Up For Heavy Bows #23274Duck, Had a fairly lengthy response to your question and as I was typing it I got logged out and LOST it all!
I’ll just say this. Your goal is possible but I would suggest that you search out an archery coach and be sure your form is good. You are looking to “max perform” your body and you will be able to avoid injury if your form is a good as possible. Just doing “exercises” is not the total solution to your goal. Getting your form as efficient and correct as possible IS far more important!
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #16535Vintage and Steve said it better than I did. When I said “sluggish” I was trying to say that arrow trajectory needs to be part of the equation in order to hit well. A slow looping arc trajectory is harder to hit with than a little faster and straighter trajectory. It doesn’t matter how much penetration is available if hitting is a challenge. There is a happy medium that combines both penetration and trajectory to get the most efficient result form a given bow draw weight.
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #15860Absolutely your choice! I just suggest that there is a trade off between arrow weight and velocity and to play with it a little so you know that your are getting the best results you can. A really heavy arrow VERY slow may not be as good as a little lighter arrow a little faster.
in reply to: 200 grain head/ 35# longbow/ wood arrow? #156873 feathers asks a good question. I’d also ask why you want so heavy a tip? Your bow will at a good efficiency level with about a 350 grain arrow weight but I bet with 200 grains up front you will have a 500 grain + arrow and that may make your bow kind of sluggish.
General rule of thumb is to add 5# of spine rating for every inch over 28″ and another 5# for for every 20 grains over 125 grains. These are “ballpark” estimates that should get you close but you need to answer 3 feather’s question first.
in reply to: instinctive shooting and bow/arrow tuning #12098My opinion (and that is all it is) is that you should have one set of arrows that are spined and weighted the same for starting out. Once you are shooting groups with this first consistent set of arrow then try “branching out” to other options. If you try for a cross section of various spines, weights, and balances you will not get groups and will only confuse the issue. I don’t many of us ( if any) can take a quiver full of assorted shafts and shoot them all well and to the same place.
I recommend you only work with ONE thing at a time!
in reply to: instinctive shooting and bow/arrow tuning #12049“Having never shot traditional archery equipment and regarding the well tuned bow and arrow setup brings me to this question.”
If you are just getting into trad archery, do not get too wrapped up with the details yet. We often get the cart before the horse. Get arrows that are “in the ball park” for spine and weight and then learn to shoot them. Keep at it until you can shoot acceptable groups (acceptable to you)and DO NOT WORRY about hitting a specific target just go for good groups. Once you have the groups, then and only then is the time to start trying to fine tune your equipment.
When you are starting out, trying to get an EFOC or heavy weight arrow will drive you crazy because you can not determine if the place the arrow is hitting is caused by a form element or an equipment element. Get those groups first with whatever reasonably spined and balanced arrows you have then you will have a foundation to experiment with the “other” stuff. FWIW.
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