Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: My First Recurve #39559
madmav70 wrote: I have tried changing the spine, adjusting the nock, and even drawing the string to the left to counter-act it, with no luck.
At this stage for you I would suggest that you look to your shooting form rather than trying to fix equipment. This is sort of the exact opposite of how C bows are set up and takes a different mind set. For many who are just starting out, there is a tendency to draw too far back which as the string hand/nock move back on the face, places the nock of the arrow to the right and not under your eye.
Try shooting with the string in front of your eye, it should essentially center your pupil. If you perceive the string to be to the right, the arrows will go left every time. Try shooting a few arrows with the string in front of your eye, try to keep your string hand on your face at release (let it move to the rear but maintain contact on your cheek) and see what happens.
Arne
in reply to: Trad-Bow arrow speed & KE #23740Tom,
You are getting what you should be. KE is largely a function of velocity. K=mv^2. The velocity is squared so the much higher arrow speeds of a C bow produce much higher number for KE. Most of us “trad” shooters discount the KE values in favor of momentum to measure arrow performance. M=mv. Your numbers on your Whip are about right and more than enough for hunting.
Some (myself included) will say that the KE figure is really a C bow’s manufacturing advertisement hype. By squaring the velocity, and as you notice they get much higher and therefore more impressive numbers to advertise with. They did what you are doing to show the much higher KE for the C bows as compared to “trad.”
Arne
in reply to: Recurve or Longbow… #10197Alex, We are all trying to tell you that you are worrying for NOTHING! It really does not matter what the bow looks like! A bow is a bow and they shoot the same. That can be held vertically or canted regardless of what they look like!!! Spine is spine! Each bow will have an arrow spine that it likes the best BUT they ALL will shoot a range of spine rated shafts for a given draw weight.
IF you feel that a center cut (shot) bow is what you want than that is what you should have. BUT it will STILL like one spine over another BUT that is dependent on draw weight AND how YOU shoot. Two people shooting the same bow MAY have different spine rated arrows for that bow and their form.
What I tried to say in my first answer is just shoot what you have, learn to shoot it with what you have, AND just enjoy it! You are worrying about stuff that largely IS NOT A PROBLEM. Once you learn to shoot, you should be able to shoot ANY bow with whatever style you develop within a very short time. I still recommend that you find a coach/mentor. That will shorten you learning curve by many months!
Arne
in reply to: Recurve or Longbow… #8205David, I was just trying to slow him down a little. I did say that he “MAY find.. ” not necessarily that is WAS enough. I meant to imply a difference but probably could have said it better.:D
Arne
in reply to: Recurve or Longbow… #7978“(like the DIY elk trip I hope to do in the upcoming years)”
You don’t say how many years BUT… I think you are laboring under a lot of false impressions! For example, longbows are shot differently than recurves; recurves are shot straight up and down and long bows are canted; Spine to bow configuration just to name a few. You say you are “I am really new to traditional archery” so I suggest that you SLOW DOWN. Shoot with your son for a while, like for at least the rest of the summer and just enjoy him and your learning process.
Find a coach if you can or lacking that, read all you can, ask questions here and anywhere else you can and keep shooting what you have. Do not rush into buying a heavier bow for a planned hunt that is a “few years down the road.” As you get closer to that day, you will have more experience and be better able to make a choice that fits you better than just what you THINK you need today. You may even find that your 45# bow is plenty for elk.
in reply to: new to archery too #34643GBlue, I think Joe means your string arm elbow, not your bow arm. You look pretty good, have you had an instructor or are you self taught? I agree, that elbow is high and that can do strange things to how you hold the string and release it. Under my avatar is a link to some videos I did a while back that may give you some visual cues to help out.
Also, as has been said, and especially in the beginning you will have good times of shooting and times that you feel you can’t do anything right. Hang in there, and remember that “us guys” were able to do it, SOOOO….
in reply to: @#&^%*$ Bear! (Update: Bear wins) #34634Byron Ferguson told me a few years ago that he had quit hunting bear because he didn’t hate them anymore. Sounds like you have reason to head out for revenge!:D
in reply to: Shooting left-age old question #26927My 2 cents is that 2217s are really stiff for your 55# bow (and I am assuming your are drawing 28″). How do those arrows work in your 65# bow? I’d also ask how or why you got 2217s for that bow?
As a coach, I would first look to your anchor and release (form). If you shoot those arrows for a while and they are still shooting left then a shaft (spine) change would be in order. Are the arrows slapping or clanking the bow when you shoot? How are they flying (fishtailing/porpoising)?
in reply to: Bareshaft FOC? #21762g, Not sure really what you are asking. If you want to know the “FOC” of your bare shafts, measure the length, then find the balance point and do the math. BUT… FOC is built into the arrow as you make it by point weight, footing, taper, type and style of nock, feathers, paint, wrap, etc. Short answer is that FOC is what YOU make it.
Arne
in reply to: Anybody Shoot Howard Hills? #26618Great bows with the nostalgia that goes with a great name! I have far too many bows in general but with 7 Hill bows on the rack and one coming in May, I guess I could admit to being a fan.:D My main “go to” bow is a Wesley Special, 70″ & 50# @30″.
Hill style bows seem to be either loved or hated but I guess I think that they are pictured as a bow when you look at the dictionary definition of a bow.
in reply to: where are the heavier bows at??? #10512I noticed that too. Did you also see that there was not one Hill style longbow in the arena? I thought that that was kind of strange too. Seems to me that a Hill style bow fits neatly between modern recurve and R/D long bows and the self bows that were there.
in reply to: "Horse Bows" #10506OK, Here are the preliminaries. The horse bow is 56″ strung and measured from string nock to string nock. 6.5″ brace height. It draws right at 55# at 28″ measured with an Easton hand held digital scale. Putting 2016 aluminum shafts (500 grain total weight) through the Chrono, I’m getting a very consistent 160 fps. This is with a finger release, shooting off the hand and no nocking point yet. I do not have a thumb ring, but it will be interesting to see how that works out when I can find one that fits (never shot one of those before so will be a learning experience too). I also do not know the material used in the string but it is an endless style string with huge loops to fit over the siahs(sp?).
That’s what I know for now.
in reply to: "Horse Bows" #9911I just picked up a Kassai Lajos horse bow at the traditional and primitive expo in Waterloo,IA. It is a beautiful bow, but I just got home and shot a couple 2016 out of it here in the house. It appears to REALLY fling an arrow. It is rated at 55# but is incredibly smooth to draw. Will take it to the range on Wednesday and shoot it at 20 yards and see what it does. Will try to chronograph it tomorrow. I’ve been a longbow shooter most of my life and only grabbed this out of curiosity. Will try to report my impressions in a couple days.
in reply to: Help with camcorder purchase #50341Troy,
Check out the Casio Elixim. Mine is the EX-FC-100 but I think there is a newer version. It is a pocket camera (not a camcorder) but has video capability to shoot up to 1000 frames per second. This camera is a staple in most archery coach’s equipment bag. Not real expensive but with the selectable video frame rates very versatile. When you get to 1000 FPS the picture gets a little small and grainy but you can still see what is going on. You also need very good light at this speed (no florescent) bright sunlight is best. Just a thought.
in reply to: Arrow swinging off shelf #30125Hey folks, I’m glad the videos are helping answer some questions. Below is a link to the videos I’ve done. I have been a “lurker” here for a while but like to try to help with suggestions.
Arne
-
AuthorPosts
