[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Bow Poundage for Pheasant Hunting #43910

I grew up living and hunting pheasant in SD. They are ONE TOUGH bird and frankly I don’t think the “small game” points are a good choice. Obviously, if dogs are involved you have to be careful. Check with SD Fish and Game. it USED to be that broad heads were required for upland game and waterfowl. That MAY have changed in the many years since I lived and hunted there — but you may want to check.

Good luck with it though, archery pheasant hunting is a LOT of fun!

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Good Deer Liver Recipe #34318

I’m with Ben and mhay on this one. The recipe I use is to soak it in EVERY steak sauce I have on hand for three weeks. Then fry in a cast iron skillet with $200 a bottle brandy poured on top until unrecognizable. Then throw liver AND skillet away and go to Mickey D’s.

Sorry, JUST CAN”T eat ANY “inards.” 😀 😳

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: formula for bows #64089

I wouldn’t have said a word if I’d known you were talking laminated bows. Quite a different animal.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: formula for bows #60248

The way I was taught was to never stress an all wood bow beyond it’s target draw weight. That reduces (reduces, not eliminates) the bow taking set or crysalling. Other more experienced bowyers may have other ideas but again, as I understand it pulling a bow to (say) 70# but at less than final draw length during tillering when you want a 50# bow in the end will crush the fibers or overstress the limbs.

I learned this from a Jim Hamm bow class I took a few years ago and it is mentioned in several books.

For me, theory aside, it allows me to hit my draw weight pretty close and at the desired draw length. This is also one of the reasons that for self bows, you don’t want someone with a t 30″ draw length to shoot your self bow that was made to shoot at 28″.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: formula for bows #58524

Single growth ring on the back of the bow or backed with something. As you tiller, never pull the bow farther than the desired end weight. If you pull to 50# for example and get that at 10″ keep scraping until your get 50# at 11″, etc. You have to “sneak up” on final draw length and weight by NEVER exceeding your target weight.

If I understand your question correctly.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Is my recurve out of alignment??? #58354

Agross,

The only measurement that means much will be the “tiller” measurement. With the bow at proper brace height, measure perpendicular to the string at each fade out. IF the bow (unlikely for a manufactured bow) measures the same at each fade out, then the bow was tillered for 3 under. If the top measurement is 1/8 to 1/4 inch MORE on the top limb, then the bow is correct for split finger.

If the bottom is MORE than the top, there is a problem. you will find shooting a bow where the bottom limb is out more than the top limb to be difficult (impossible) to tune or shoot.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: video yourself shooting #57515

If you have a smart phone, apple or android, get “ubersense” (free) or Coach’s eye ($5) and video often!! If you haven’t seen my videos, they are available on the link below. You don’t necessarily want to keep your string hand on your cheek, ideally it should slide back at release.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Straight Fletching Clamps #55064

ST, Wing won’t matter, but IF they are for hunting and a broad head arrow, straight fletch will be a little weak. Don’t misunderstand, straight fletch works and works well but if trying to “spin” a broad head might be a little weak.

Second, “fantasy” fletching can be noisy and may not be a best choice for hunting. Feathers are feathers and either left or right wing can be fletched straight, there is no “special processed” feather for that.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Hunting canoe #36027

Canoes are very useful watercraft and will carry quite a load compared to their overall weight. I have some experience with them — was a canoe guide for several years in North America’s top area — Boundary Waters Canoe Area and the Canadian Quetico.

Canoes have a reputation for being easy to capsize and for beginners that is true! Unlike you there in Oz, we don’t have “scary” things lurking in our water — at least not up here in the “North Woods.” IF you pursue the canoe, learn to handle it in “safe” water that doesn’t have a population of “nasties” waiting to poison, strangle or eat you.

There are many books available about the building of a canoe, some better than others. There are wood strip and wood and canvas styles but they all take a fair amount of study and wood working ability. I don’t know if folks try making them at home from fiberglass, kevlar, etc. that just doesn’t seem like a “home” project to me but I may be wrong about that.

IF you just want a boat to go out into the Croc infested waters, I’d suggest something that is a little more stable at least as you are learning. Don’t misunderstand! A canoe is VERY seaworthy BUT there is a learning curve involved that more often than not involves getting pretty wet. (That would be “total immersion” training. :shock::D:shock::D )

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Shot Placement #28619

Sorry Howard, I’m going to respectfully disagree. When NEW shooters are having left, right, up and down errors is is SELDOM equipment. TOO many folks immediately blame spine for left and right hits when 95% of the time it is “what they are doing” (FOR NEW SHOOTERS!!). Arrow spine ONLY becomes important AFTER the NEW shooter has learned to shoot and truly control their shot. Until they can do that they have NO way to determine whether the problem is them or the equipment. 95% of the time it is them and 5% of the time it MIGHT be equipment. We need to start with the most likely problem!

A shooter that has developed a decently repeatable form, can accurately shoot arrows that are 2 or 3 spine groups off, either higher or lower. Especially wood as the OP said he uses.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: Shot Placement #28558

Yes there is a chart available but it depends on whether you are left or right handed. IF right handed, generally high AND left is a combination of things. There are reasons for left and there are reasons for high. When you get them both at the same time it will probably be a combination of things. You will need to work on eliminating one error at a time. Start with the left errors.

Be sure your arrow nock is under your eye. Be sure your string hand is tight on your face each shot. Be sure your string hand isn’t “flipping” out from your face as you release. Be sure your bow hand stays on target. That’s 4 things to work on ONE AT A TIME!!! and see if you can get the “lefts corrected.

One way to do this is to place a vertical length of blue masking tape on the target and work to center your shots on the tape. ONE ITEM AT A TIME!!!!

Once you get that figured out, then work on elevation. Check that you are holding the bow correctly. Don’t “peek” (lift your head to watch the arrow). This time, place the blue masking tape horizontally on the target. and only work on that.

Finally, place both a vertical and horizontal tape on the target and work on both.

I would be remiss IF I didn’t add the standard coach caveat of “50# is a LOT to start with!!”

Welcome to Tradbow and Have fun!!

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: From Master #26998

I and many coaches agree that the commercial form master is too expensive. It does come with a “booklet” that gives good instruction BUT still a little too pricey. There are several places where there are plans or instructions for making one yourself. I make my own for less than $3 each and give them to students — just a short trip to the hardware store.

The FM does give the shooter REALLY good feedback for two areas. First for learning to draw with as relaxed as possible forearm (pulling with the elbow and the fingers OFF the string and therefore forearm, wrist and hand can be completely relaxed). It is a good way to learn to draw with the back AND hold with the back and bone alignment.

Second, lengthening it (the cord) so you can nock an arrow and draw with the fingers, then when you release, the form master will tell you within a few shots whether you are collapsing or loosing back tension. If you have faults in your shot, the FM will pull your string elbow forward “enthusiastically.” NOTE! This device is NOT recommended for over 50# or so!! If you are “solid” in your shot, then at release, your string elbow will not move.

The FM is NOT magic and must be done right. That’s where the commercial version’s manual is handy OR having someone that has worked with it before is recommended.

It is a good training device IF done right!

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: A short rant about KE… #16497

Well said SmithHammer. If you can’t impress with facts, dazzle ’em with Bravo Sierra. Common advertising these days.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: question about eye dominance #60114

Sorry if what I wrote the OP came across as a “recommendation,” IT WAS NOT.

“If you are happy with your shooting now, DO NOT change! If you get unexpected left misses, you MAY want to explore changing hands or explore retraining your eye dominance. (Yes, you can retrain eye dominance but it will take some guidance and work on your part.)”

I did say that if he was happy with his shooting (ie. no apparent problems) NOT to change! BUT IF he had a problem to EXPLORE other options. I did not in any way mean to imply that he should change anything.

I think we are saying the same thing just in different ways.

Arne

[Arne Moe]

in reply to: question about eye dominance #60089

Ya, the Hill /Bear cross dominance example ALWAYS comes up in these types of discussions and that is very true. There are no hard and fast “rules” — shucks, one Korean Olympic medalist is legally blind — anything CAN be worked out.

But, frankly most of us are not in Hill or Bear’s class and ANY tool that can help solve shooting problems for any given individual should be at least explored. If we can REDUCE built in challenges the shooter (especially the new shooter) will be successful faster.

I DO ABSOLUTELY agree that learning good consistent form is the most important and aiming is just ONE step of the shot sequence and PROBABLY not the most important one. I, too, often tell folks to learn their form, the “aiming part” is the easy part.

Arne

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