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in reply to: My new longbow #13255
Steve Graf wrote: I like the double curvy thing on the maple handle.
What limb thickness taper are you using?
I use 3 parallels and 1 taper at .002″. I can’t remember the overall limb thickness, but I can take some measurements later and send them if you would like. I always start with Bingham project plans, and I modify them to get the weight and look that I want.
in reply to: My new longbow #7988I worked on this one with/for a friend.
in reply to: My new longbow #7980This was my first hill style bow.
in reply to: My new longbow #7970ssumner1 wrote: That is a fine looking bow. Did you craft this yourself?
Thanks! Yes this is one of four Hills that I built this year.
in reply to: My new longbow #7828I’ll post some pics with the leather grip later, and I’ll add some other bows that I’ve made.
in reply to: Tuning wood shafts #10125Bitter wrote: I have built lots of my own shafts out of Douglas fir, spruce
and western larch, and out of vg bamboo. the last 2 are what I have found to be the best and the strongest. Its lots of fun and a chalenge. I have one of those veritas arrow makers wear you spin a half inch square wood stock threw it with a fast drill gun. Make shr you get strait grain wood for best performance. I am looking to sell my arrow maker becouse I am making arrows in bigger quanitys.In all 4 types.
I will be back if any want to know more info on how the veritas arrow maker works.
Jonathan
I was really interested in making my own shafts with a veritas, but where have you found to be a good source for wood? I’m having a hard time finding straight fur, and I don’t know what Larch and vg bamboo are. Where would I find those? Any info you have would be appreciated.
in reply to: Tuning wood shafts #60407tkohlhorst wrote: [quote=J.Wesbrock]One thing to keep in mind with building wood arrows is grain orientation. Wood shafts are spined on the edge of the grain, so make sure you make your arrow so the grain runs perpendicular to the bow (i.e. With your bow straight up and down, the arrow grain runs left and right. If you make them so the grain direction is random, your spine will also be random. Aside from that, the tuning is the same as with any other arrow shaft type.
I never would have thought about that. I am still in a big debate with myself to start making my own arrows. I think it would be a blast but currently I do not have any space where I live…once I own a house and stop renting then I will get more serious.
Don’t let renting stop you, I made a take down recurve on an apartment back padio, and several longbows in rental houses. When the Marine Corps moves you, you just set up shop where you can. there is not much that is more satisfying than using equipment you made yourself.
in reply to: Bamboo Arrow Shafts #28544My dad found some really nice ones online. They where $100 for 100 shafts, but the shipping and tax was $40 because they came from China. I will get the info for you and update this reply.
in reply to: Where do you get your wood? #24487If you are wanting to cut your own, the DFW area has a lot of Osage if you know where to look. I’ve found a lot at construction sites. Your best bet would be on the outskirts of town in areas that are still pretty heavily wooded. Find a site where the trees have just been cleared, they just bulldoze them over and haul them off.
in reply to: bow repairers #9678jonbow wrote: tis an early 1970s bow
jonkind of hard to call it a manufacturing issue with forty years of faithful service to back it up.
in reply to: bow repairers #9548Cool, Martin replaced a bow for me once. It broke in half while I was drawing it. Maybe BW will do the same. If its a manufacturing issue, they should.
in reply to: bow repairers #9453Who was the bow made by?
in reply to: Self bow?? #47517I’m from Arlington, my dad still lives there. The Marine Corps has me in Florida right now, but I come back there every chance I get.
in reply to: Self bow?? #47458I see that you are from Texas. We have a ton of osage, in Texas. You could probably come by some at a new construction site or something like that. If it’s straight, it splits into staves really easily (when its green, after it cures its like splitting a drive shaft). My dad has some staves that have cured for several years, he might be convinced to part with one if you are interested.
in reply to: cherry wood and red oak bow? #40630I’m with Troy, find some plans and follow them. For the lamination process you will use a form for glue up. The thin laminates easily bend to the form, they are held there under pressure. When the glue cures, the limbs are permanently shaped like the form. Smooth-on is what I use for my bows (two part epoxy). If you have any questions about what supplies you actually need, look at Bingham. They have a lot more than you need, so if you don’t want to buy too much, ask one of us, maybe we can give you some more resources.
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