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  • looselystrung
      Post count: 12

      You can also spray your clothes (only the clothes!!) with Permethrin spray.Drug stores sell it under diffent names ie RID etc for spraying bedding,couches and such to kill lice/crabs. It is odorless and will stay on the fabric thru several washings.Kills the little buggers on contact!
      I give my hunting pants a good dousing with it especially early fall and have never had a problem….

      looselystrung
        Post count: 12
        in reply to: Scent-Lok #18765

        Never used or will use the stuff…I read elsewhere the industry has a class-action lawsuit going against them for fraudulent advertising..go figure.
        The”carbon” already picks up odors in the stores,being handled,shipped etc and to “re-charge” it requires several hundred degrees of temperature!!:shock:
        What is real good I.M.H.O is the stuff (particularly underwear) with silver thread in the weave. It is a natural bacteriocide, never wears off and keeps B.O to a minimum.I use that, wool clothes and take chlorophyl caps with meals (you get get it in most health food stores) which deodorize you from the inside..hey I found it helps.And of course the MOST important…..watch the wind…:roll:

        looselystrung
          Post count: 12

          I used it once while deer hunting one of the patches of woods between housing developments near where I live.It was very early morning with a fog beginning to burn off and a light variable wind.I was in waist deep brush alongside a young white birch wood just listening and watching,.
          Suddenly the grass in front of me 15yrds out begins rustling and something is rapidly running directly at me but I can’t see what!!:shock: I have an arrow nocked and ready….the heart is juiced and I’m thinking WTF?. Suddenly this big fat coon comes blasting out of the brush in front of me coming right at me! I drew and released..caught him just back of the head…took 2 more arrows to put him away!! He had to be at least 15-20 lbs (at least that’s what he felt like as I carried him back to the truck..) Far as deer go..I don’t know but that coon seemed hot to trot for it:D

          looselystrung
            Post count: 12

            I hunt with a longbow..years past I have “made meat” (or tried to) with a Mauser 30/06 rifle..like Hiram said…I just picked up a T/c Hawken .50 flintlock and and plan on using that this year in late season..

            looselystrung
              Post count: 12

              I bought a half dozen of the 250gr’s.Haven’t hunted them yet (season opens 10/3 Wahoo!..sorry). They heavier ones are machined from a solid piece of steel with no vents, are teflon coated and fly silent as smoke.Also real easy to sharpen…just slide them a couple of times on some wet/dry paper (I glue mine to something flat & smooth)to put final hone to them.Look and fly real lethal..can’t wait…

              looselystrung
                Post count: 12

                For feathers….I’ve also used Thompson’s Water Seal (for wood decking and such)work pretty well once it dries…:idea:

                looselystrung
                  Post count: 12

                  I use them on most of my longbows and they adjust and hold just fine.Use a good lenght of serving thread and use “half” of a square knot (kinda like you use when tying shoes but withour the final bow 🙄 ).Alternate one above the string then one below back and forth till you build up a fair size ball.I finally tie off with a double knot/square knot..cut off excess and burn it down with a lighter.I then CAREFULLY put a small dab of crazy glue on final knot to seal the deal..don’t get any on your string..you will never move it!
                  A dab of string wax rubbed in smoothes it out.Turning the knot with one hand while holding onto the string will move it up or down as it follows the wrap direction of the serving string…

                  looselystrung
                    Post count: 12
                    in reply to: cutting carbon? #30606

                    Quaker boy wrote: Whats the best way to cut carbon shafts w/out a cut off saw?

                    Cheapest and bet way I found was a small saw I found at Harbor freight. You can see it here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307It comes with a round wood sawblade but it is removable and you can get an “apple saw” or similar replacement cut off blade for carbons or large Dremel or cut-off tool type disc. They used to be around $12-15 but I think they caught on and price went up.See them on “Bay sometimes but watch out for prices…

                    looselystrung
                      Post count: 12

                      http://oldbow.com/silverwood_tapered_shafts.htm
                      Check these out: They are barrel tapered,heavy ,grain and spine matched and $30 ish a dosen packed in air tight packs and they rock!!!
                      They are straight grained hardly need any straightening and a are bit tough to stain but will with some effort. I have bought and used around 3 dozen over time and the fly like a bullet.The barrel tapering allows them to recover from paradox much quicker it seemsas they initially used to surprise me when I would overshoot my mark.

                      looselystrung
                        Post count: 12

                        Killed a doe from treestand at 15 yrds with a stinger. She barely twitched when the arrow hit..almost as if a fly bit her making me think that I had missed till i saw the bloodied arrom stuck in the ground 😯 .She walked another 10 yrds or so with her “boyfriend” the button buck following and keeled over dead after legs buckled.The doe did not even know she was hit!…they truly are that sharp oh yes it was the 2 blade version.
                        The only issue I had with them is the aluminum ferrule which can and did bend once when I buried a shaft into the ground but magnus guarantees them for life…I was just too lazy to mail it to them.

                        looselystrung
                          Post count: 12

                          I shoot a Martin Savannah similar to “Stickbow” and as Jerry suggested a “low wrist” bone on bone grip works best for me.High wrist for the Bear recurve just was not my flavor and could not shoot it well and got rid of it.
                          For the longbow I more or less point thumb straight up and let grip settle along inner thumb, & palm to tranfer pressure into wrist and arm etc. If you ever shot a compund bow…the grip is similar Dan

                          looselystrung
                            Post count: 12
                            in reply to: xx75 "singing" #62423

                            Hi Nathan…my first post here also. Are use using straight fletch offset or helical? If fletching is straight..try left (or right) helical dpending on your feathers and jig.
                            Also the spray-foam will not dry unless exposed to air and only make a gooey mess. I once put a can of the stuff into ballons hoping to make round foam targets and it never dried or expanded even. Dry chunks of packing styrofoam on the other hand might not be bad idea if all else fails.Could it be something with the weights you added for F.O.C tip weight possibly touching or bouncing inside shaft to create vibe?…just a thought.Maybe try one shaft without? Best luck Dan.

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