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in reply to: 2014 Hunting #55099
It’s great to hear all the stories and see some successes.
SmithHammer, please stop posting pics. You’re making me homesick….more than I already have been for the last 5 years. Seriously, though, I love to see pics of my old stompin’ grounds. Some day I’ll get back home. Some day…..
I’ll be heading to the Del Rio area Dec. 12, at least that’s the plan (gotta get the days off from work). I’ll be taking a new recruit with me. He’s gun hunted before in WA where I’m from, but never bowhunted before and wants to do traditional, so I’m really stoked! It should be……interesting (like the-blind-leading-the-blind interesting), as I’m fairly new to it myself, but the learning experience will make up for any missed animal. That, and being away from the city.
I wish everyone continued success, and I’ll post pics if I get something, and figure out how to do it.
in reply to: creeks and streams #52856That may be a stickey one. It would fall under the “envoronmental issue” category. Which brings environmental groups (I’m definitely not a fan of them, just my personal view) into the mix. I’m not a rancher or dairyman, but most of them have a good working relationship with various state agencies to both address environmental concerns and to run a profitable cattle/dairy operation. I think your best bet would be contacting one or several of those agencies, or the local cattle grower’s association. The thing to keep in mind is to keep, as much as possible, a good relationship with said ranchers/dairymen. From personal experience, they tend to take things personally because it means their livelihood, and I don’t blame them. Point being, just tread lightly while, at the same time, voicing your concern.
Best of luck.
in reply to: Quiet my quiver! #52842two4, I’ve had and use that quiver since I started my trad “career” and have always liked it. My hunt in Oct. highlighted that I didn’t really know how to use it in that situation. I read the article you posted and went right to work. I put 3 coats of a good leather treatment on (bee’s wax, and a bunch of other stuff), and warmed it carefully in the oven. By the time was done, it felt totally different (floppy…..or supple….whichever you prefer). I also adjusted the strap as per the article. Not sure why I couldn’t have figured it out myself just by playing with it. I do it with everything else I touch…..”fix it till it’s broke”, as the saying goes. Anyway, I’ll continue using it, as I not only like the looks of it, but the idea of it.
Doc, I still plan on making what you sent pictures of. Thanks again, by the way. I probably won’t get to it this season, though. I like to keep my options open, and if it doesn’t work for me, I’ll pass it on to someone else.
Thanks for the input, all.
in reply to: poor performing EFOC arrow #52212Ptaylor, thanks for sharing your experience. Not being able to physically walk through the whole scene, I won’t speculate on what happened, except to say that, sometimes, we can do everything right and something can still go wrong. That sounds like the case with your experience.
Also, your FOC calculation sounds off, based on your arrow setup. I base that statement on my own setup, which is a Carbon Express Pass Thru Extreme Small diameter (10.32 gpi) @ 29 3/16″ knock-to-end of shaft, not including insert; total shaft-only weight without feathers: 297.9 gr.), 235 gr. Kodiak, 75 gr. adapter, 40 gr. insert, 20 additional gr. behind the adapter. Total arrow weight is roughly 668 gr., and weight up front hovers around 370 gr. With that setup, the alaskabowhunting.com FOC calculator calculates mine @ 27.08%. That’s not saying your’s isn’t high, but possibly not as high as you’re thinking. I could very well be wrong, it’s just that the numbers you gave didn’t seem to add up to that EFOC, on the surface, anyway.
I know you have a bad taste in your mouth with selfbows now, but I wouldn’t give up on them quite yet. Now that your season is over, take that time to do some dignostics and see if you can figure what went wrong. Something that came to me as I’m writing this: you mentioned a fairly heavy-weight bow with a low spine arrow and heavier-than-normal head weight (compared to most archery “standards”). Could it be that the arrow wigged and wagged on it’s way to it’s mark, didn’t hit straight on, and that caused poor penetration? I’ve noticed a marked reduction in penetration on my arrows when that happens. Luckily, I’m only killing foam.
Anyway, I’d like to know how you fare, as any info helps us all.
Best regards
in reply to: Lake Amistad, TX hunt #51364I forgot to mention what there is to hunt. Besides white tail, Rio Grande turkey(requiring tags, and an upland bird stamp for turkey), and javalina, there’s the exotics: Mouflon sheep, Audad sheep, blackbuck (African Gemsbok), and ferral hog, all of which, have no bag limit.
in reply to: Quiet my quiver! #51135two4, that’s a great article, thanks for posting it! I’m working on what was in the article as we speak.
DocNock, thanks for the pics. It will give me another option as I refine my gear.
in reply to: My recent experience #49484Ok,I have an update. I ordered some 235 gr. Kodiacs, rt. wing bevel, and some 75 gr. adapters. I have to say, those things are HUGE! And, quite the wicked looking head.
I got them yesterday and glued heads to adapters. Today, I shot them and they fly very well.
Thanks again for advice, Dave. I’ll update after my hunt in Dec…..if I actually get something.
Well, I’ll throw my hat in the ring.
Bow: re-worked Martin something-or-other longbow, 66″ knock-to-knock,
Draw weight: 63# @ 28″.
My draw: 28 1/2″, so actual draw weight is about 65#.
Arrow shaft: Carbon Express Pass Thru Extreme Small Diameter.
Arrow length: 29 3/8″.
Spine: 350 (60-75#).
Insert: 40 gr. steel, factory half-in, half-out.
Insert weights: 20 gr. (2 10 gr. weights)
Current b/h: Zwickey Eskimo 125 gr. Waiting on some Kodiaks in 235 gr. and 75 gr. adapters.
Adapters: 125 gr. steel.
Fletching: TruFlight 4″ shield cut x3.
Total arrow weight: 660 gr.
FOC: about 29%.
Now that I have a different style of broad head on the way, I’m still working up the arrows, but I am keeping the new setup as close to the the weight of my current one for the sake of consistency. I will, however, also try the Kodiaks on the 125 gr. adapters to see what happens. I’ve noticed that the extra weight up front keeps the arrow on track pretty well, even with a sloppy release, change in brace height, or if the tie-on knocking point slips down a bit.
in reply to: My recent experience #42493Thanks for the input, Dave. As I re-read yesterday what I wrote, the thought of using heavier heads occurred to me, so we’re on the same page. I also did more testing today with my current broadhead setup (250 gr. total point weight), and 250 and 300 gr. field points. I re-measured my arrows and they come out at 29 3/8″, and I re-calculated the FOC with a 300 gr. field point (my initial calculation was with the 250 gr. b/h setup and came out to just over 23%). With a 300gr point, 40 gr insert, and a total of 20 additional gr of weights behind the insert, I’m at just over 29% FOC, and the arrows fly flawlessly.
Needless to say, Dave, I’ll be taking your advice and procuring some heavier broad heads, probably either Tuff Heads or Grizzlies. I’m just glad I can do the testing to find out what setup works for me. It’s getting a bit costly, but now I know what direction to go.
Thanks again for the input, Dave.
in reply to: Recurve tiller #39445J.Wesbrock, thanks for the reassurance. I’m not sure the age of the bow, but I remember that my dad bought it used when I was a kid, so I’d say it’s well over 30 years old, and long before the type of “modern” tillering you talk about, J. The bow is in good shape, with no cracks in back or belly. There is a small piece of glass missing on the very tip of one of the knocks, but it does not affect the function of the bow.
Thanks again for the input.
Rich
in reply to: Light Weight Hunting Bows #39173I like your style!
in reply to: Light Weight Hunting Bows #38342OldBow, you pose a thought-provoking question. My assumption, after having read, and re-read Vol. 1 of the Trad. Bowyer’s Bible, is that overall bow efficiency would be an important part of any chosen bow, not just the wieght. If given a choice between a poorly designed 40#er and a well designed 35#er, I’d pick the superior design over higher poundage. What I’m saying is, we should be careful to not just look at draw weight, since 2 bows of a given weight, but different design, will probably shoot the same arrow at levels of efficiency, affecting overall penetration. If I recall, Dr. Ashby did a writeup, comparing a 40# bow to 2 different bows, one of 70#, the other @ 82#. The results of the 40# bow were really surprising, and would point towards a pretty efficient setup for the 40#er, unless more factors were at play (and I don’t remember!). It reminds me of the addage “work smarter, not harder”. Now, I won’t tell you that I have a 60ish pound longbow, but after drawing my lighter recurve, the higher poundage bow sometimes is a bit burdensome, due to the much greater effort required to draw. I have no idea how they compare, but now you know one of my projects! Just my thoughts.
Rich
in reply to: Check out the two Voodoo Kustom elk longbows #38316What a beaut! The cool factor is off the charts for this guy!
Dave, I didn’t know antler was so weak. They seem pretty hard to me, but I am Young Grasshoppah.
in reply to: Recurve tiller #38299Well, I guess I’ll have to give the 3 under a go. I’m just not sure if I should try 3 under, since I shoot my longbow with split fingers. I have no idea what make it is. It looks to be lemonwood between white glass lams, 64″AMO, 35#@ 28″. It’ll be a nice practice bow to work on form with, and Lord knows I need it!
in reply to: Twisted one up #35687Tailfeather, looks good! Let us know how the natural fiber string works. I know that’s how some of the “primitive” strings were made, as well as from sinew.
Rich
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