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Dave2old wrote: CO’s minimum bow weight is an embarrassment and tragedy, more “good work” from CBA, who is more interested in their weak wives and kids being able to hunt elk than trying to elimiante wounded elk running around with arrows flopping around visibly. I’ve been hunting elk in CO for 27 years and have seen and done it almost all. Some years ago I determined that if I couldn’t find a way to kill elk fast and humanely and with certainty, I couldn’t keep hunting them. Back then I was using 64# recurves with aluminum or wood shafts and Thunderhead 3-blade 125s … and never once got a satisfactorily fast kill no matter arrow placement. Average weight was 550. Thank God, then along came Doc Ed Ashby with his great wisdom, which I followed and immediately started getting pass-throughs and animals going down within sight. That said, the arrow is far more important than the bow, though I would never condone less than 50# even if it sometimes works (miss all those ribs, a 50/50 chance broadside and far less at any angle, and maybe can do). In the briefest summary, here is what Ashby says as minimum for big big game like elk, knowing that bone hits are inevitable: Minimum overall arrow weight of 650 grains. Strong, slender two-blade broadheads preferably single-bevel. As much weight as possible up front. I am 63 and my current setup is a 55# Shrew longbow with 750-grain carbon shafts (for their versatility in getting weight up front) and any of several very heavy and strong single-bevel two-blades: ABS “Ashby,” Abowyer “Brown Bear,” Grizzly “El Grande,” Tusker “Concord.” Happily, manufacturers are really getting behind the Ashby technolog and STOS, among others, will soon be coming out with very heavy single-bevel heads. Yeah, it can be done with less and regularly is. But if you don’t want the heartbreak of lousy penetration and a lost wounded animal, why take a chance. And a bonus: The more weight up front, the better the accuracy. dave
AMAN!!!! Dave, you said it like it is, there are people who think we are fly fishing, and want to use the lightest gear they can get away with.
I want more than I need to get the job done.
This is my Elk arrow for this year.
Oh! by the way it worked excellent also.
in reply to: New Grizzly coming soon! #13336Hi Ron, how the heck are you? thanks for letting us know how you get an edge.
You said you strop ( with cardboard ) after you remove the bur.
I go to fine stones and keep polishing the bevel side, some times it just falls off if I have kept a contestant angle, of course I do a few strokes on the flat side also, after polishing the edge, I will strop with kind of a course leather, check to make sure all of the bur is gone ( with a magnifying glass) then I go to a vary smooth leather strop to finish.
I just show the hair on my arm the broadhead…….. and it volunteers to just jumps off my arm……. I don’t even have to touch it any more.:D
I’m not that good of a shot, most of the animals I kill just lay down, rather than get hit with my broadhead. lol
I was thinking of getting some Norton 8000 and 10000 stones, Shapton even has some 16000 and 30000 stones for more polishing, whats your 2 cents on that, is there such a thing as over kill.
I thought I’d ask you, being, you are the sharpster Sensei 😯
This is a buck I shot @ 5 yards, 55lb Habu recurve 550 total grain arrow with a 160 Grizzly.
This arrow did not go through the thin part of the scapula, it is at least 1/2 thick.
This is his left scapula and the arrow went in about 10″, no exit though, I have worked up an arrow that should crash through both shoulder blades now.
This is the exit side or what you could call the inside of the scapula, you can clearly see the “S” in the bone split.
This is a boar I shot this year in his bed @ 9 yards, with a 60lb Centaur 650 grain total arrow weight with a el grandy, this is the path of the arrow.
the arrow went through the ridge breaking it off and going through the scapula, in effect 2 bones.
It went down into the lung severing the right lobe completely off.:shock:
in reply to: EFOC (20+ %) and Aluminum Shafts #9042The 2117 is a good hunting arrow, you could buy a 1/2 dz 1820 Easton Genesis shafts, they slide right inside 2117, cut them to 9.8 inches and you will get 3 dz inserts from a 1/2 dz.
That will ad 119 grains in the front end and ad a little to your spine, I like to use gorilla grip glue because it expands and keeps every thing tight.
Your shaft is 378gr at 31 1/2″, so you need to ad 300-350 to get it high EFOC.
I like the 125gn steal broadhead adapters inside a 190 Grizzly + I put a 1716 shaft over my carbon shaft for 765 grains total after sharpening the head, with a 28% EFOC
It is vary important that you tune the arrow to the bow as you go, if you go up in front end weight you will need more spine.
Have fun
in reply to: Have you ever considered a longbow ?? #19730Today’s longbow a’ent you grandpas longbow, they where turd’s (just my 2 cents, don’t shoot me) I have shoot them and there fun.
However today’s long bow can out shoot the best recurves
Centaur Chimera
Habu Viperkon dbl. carbon
O.L.Adcock ACXThese are a few that I love
in reply to: Big Russian Boars #19065I killed one once, it was fun:shock:
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