[jjnapp]

in reply to: Climbing treestands #63785

Hey guys –

I have a Lone Wolf hand climber and really like it. I bought it used for $200 off of craigslist. The previous owner used it lightly for 2 seasons and then found permanent hunting ground where he could leave stands up…so I got if fairly cheap.

I used it a bunch last season and the belts don’t look like they are even close to needing replacing (i’ve noticed no wear at all). However you have to be careful about how you position the stand on the tree…if the belts are loose they will be torqued in and adverse manner. If you use it correctly everything holds up well.

So I think the replacement recommendation might be a little more about LW guarding themselves legally (and looking to sell more product) than actual safety.

I decided on a climber because I mainly hunt private land too, where a stand is not supposed to be left up overnight. The only problem I have is that climbing the stand in the morning make more noise than I would like. I guess it is better than trying to set up a hang on stand though.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Help identifying bow #24677

With all of the knowledge I’ve seen displayed on this forum someone has to know something about older longbows. You won’t hurt my feeling if you tell me this thing is a piece of garbage….I’ve personally never seen/owned a non reflex-deflex longbow.

Were there any companies that made production scale longbows? How do you shoot a bow off the shelf? Do I need a glove on my bowhand? How long of a string do I need for a 72″ longbow?

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Help identifying bow #23277

The white markings are painted on. The paint is very old and chipped/cracked in places. Other than that there are no symbols, numbers or writing on it.

I’ve checked with everyone who might know more about this bow and they don’t seem to have any info for me.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: short longbow recommendation #50342

I took all of the advise on here and I decided to keep my name on the list for a Shrew bow and I’ve ordered “Expedition” model from Bama bows. I can’t tell you how excited I am for this new bow!

I talked with Nathaniel from Bama bows for a couple hours and I think we came up with something pretty special. It sounds like it should be finished within 2 months. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out!

[jjnapp]

in reply to: short longbow recommendation #43628

thanks for the suggestions guys! I heard from someone that Striker makes a good short longbow. Has anyone ever shot one or know anyone that has one?

I found some pics on line of the Hoots and Big Jims bows. They look great…does anyone have any personal experience with either bows or have any input about them?

Celinsin – Do you have a link to Wild Horse Creek Archery or know how I could get more info on their bows. I could find much.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: arrow tuning…point weight to shaft spine #45879

thanks for the help guys…..If you think I can get up around 160 grains I’ll give it a shot. My current arrows shoot well and I’m sure would do the job but I’d feel more confident with a little more weight up front.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Where do you get your tradional supplies from #53711

I got started ordering all of my gear through 3 rivers and have had no complaints. I still order quite a bit from them, however I stumbled upon “The Footed Shaft” when I moved to Minnesota. This is a small but fantastic shop. It is owned and run by a veteran of the traditional archery community…Mr. Lamont Granger. He genuinely cares about you as a person and an archer. He has went out of his way to educate me on many shooting and equipment issues. I’ve had nothing but great experiences. Even if you don’t live in MN they ship orders promptly…check out their advertisment in TBM.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Great target for stump shooting #50531

A few months ago I visited Zwickey archery to pick up some broaheads and judo points. Jack Zwickey, the owner was telling me about the milk jug courses he sets up. Apparently he sets milk jugs up around his property similar to a 3d course..some hung from trees…others just laying on the ground. They glue on some judo points and get after it.

Sounds like a lot of fun to me…I live in the city so I don’t have the room set up an entire course but I defiantly have shot at plastic containers. Sometimes it is nice to see your target explode instead of your arrow hitting the same stationary bale. 😀

[jjnapp]

in reply to: New arrows!! problems with broadheads. #47863

I’m pretty much all set for hunting. However I’ve been told it is a good idea to waterproof your feathers. Any ideas for a quick way to do this?

[jjnapp]

in reply to: New arrows!! problems with broadheads. #47234

I’ve tried tuning my shafts in the past but I had such little success that I figured I would never find out a solution for these arrows. However, you guys were spot on!! My shafts were definitely too weak. Even before trying to cut and reduce the weight of my points I was given some great advise from my friend Lamont Granger at “The Footed Shaft” in Rochester, MN (Great trad store by the way). He mentioned that I might want to increase my brace height. Once I did that my problem with the nock finishing high went away. The arrows immediatly flew better….I increased my longbow brace height from 7 inches to 7 3/4 inches.

I thought the problem was solved but when I barshafted my first wood arrow it hit the target at such an abrupt angle (point right..nock left) that it actually snapped after penetrating a few inches. To test out if I was actually shooting too much weight for my arrows I launched a few arrows at 3/4 draw and the arrows flew perfectly straight. I went ahead and shortened my shafts by an inch and my broadheads are flying perfectly straight now. I am extremly excited for my first trad bowhunt Sept 25th!! Thanks for help guys.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: New arrows!! problems with broadheads. #46097

I’m not sure if they are hand or factory spined. I’m positive they are straight though.

I have never paper tuned an arrow before. However I have tried bareshaft tuning. I became very frustrated when doing this because I was never able to get the arrow to fly with out the nock finishing up. No matter how high or low I set my knocking point the arrow’s nock always enters the target well above the point.

I heard something about this when watching “masters of the barebow 2″…..the gentleman from Black widow bows talked about how some people have trouble with the back end of the arrow kicking off the rest. I’m not positive but I think this is happening with me. It also makes the nock finish left no matter what spine I am using. Has anyone had any experience with this?

Although what I am describing sounds like a disaster, my groups are pretty tight out to 25 yards with a field point. Sometimes my arrows would waggle a little the first few yards of my shot but I have never had major problems until shooting with broadheads.

I would be happy to hear any suggestions you all have. I need to figure this out before Sept 25th or I might have to skip my first traditional whitetail bowhung.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Can I fix this Bow? #35726

Thanks for all the replies guys! I think I’m gonna superglue it and see how that goes.

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Has anyone used Zwicky Broadheads #32191

I just moved to Saint Paul, Mn and found out Zwicky’s factory is located there. I went over to their operation a few weeks ago and picked up some “No Mercy” broad heads and a few Judo points. The shop doesn’t really have a display room but I called ahead and they were happy to have me in. It was very cool to see such a successful, small family run business. Great people, and from what I hear Great broadheads (I haven’t had a chance to shoot them yet).

[jjnapp]

in reply to: Bow hand index finger pinching #22640

Thanks for the response Steertalker. By the way I mis-titled my post…..I meant “STRING hand index finger pinching”. I just got done shooting and my finger is killing me! Archery must be an addiction….even though it’s hurting me I can’t take a break.:twisted:

I might try a glove which would cover my whole finger and take away the discomfort. However I’m wondering if the pressure I’m putting down on the nock of the arrow is still a bad thing.

I’m one of those guys, that when trying to bare shaft my arrows always ends up with the nock high. It doesn’t matter how high or low I set my nock point. I think my index finger may be pressing the nock down upon release and the back end of the arrow hits the shelf forcing the back end high. This is just speculation but does anyone have any experience with this?

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