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in reply to: string wear #56332
This wear is often caused by too thick of serving or too tight of a nock.
Take your bow and hold it so the riser is pointing to the sky and the string is parallel to the ground. Then put an arrow on the string pointing at the ground and just hanging from the string. The nock should be tight enough to hang on the string but should come off with tapping your finger on the back of the nock.
If its too tight then take your bow to a archery shop and have them re serve the string tighter or thinner. You can do this yourself as well with just a simple serving tool and a quick search on you tube. I also have a reserving video on my podcast in my signature.
But a shop will only charge 3 bucks or so to hook you up with right size serving.
in reply to: Practice in Less than Ideal Conditions #54425Good on ya for taking advantage of practicing in that crap.
it can be hard to convince yourself to get dressed up and head out.
I do the same thing. Practice in all the conditions i hunt in. rain, wind, snow, etc. I also think its importnat to practice in your gear, especially cold weather gear. I also make sure to practice cold shots when on stand in the winter. on the cold mornings after sitting in stand for hours with no action i always take a practice shot with a judo to make sure i can shoot good after a few hours sittings still in teh sub zero temps.
in reply to: FPS/Slugs and bones…. #53456ausjim wrote:
I don’t know the first thing about bears but I had it in my head that they are relatively ‘easy’ to penetrate. Is that true or did I just make it up somewhere along the way?
Jim, I think you are correct. I have only killed a few black bears and about a dozen hogs. (some big ones of both species).
All the bears i shot as well as another 8 or so that i was along on the tracking for were all killed with 63# or less longbows and all were pass thru stuck in the ground shots. Not sure about brownies as i never hunted them but my thoughts would be they would be very similar to the blacks.
Now hogs on the other hand can be tough. But there are huge variables in what i have personally witnessed. I have seen full penetration by 45# longbows on big pigs and I have had only one side penetration on bog pics with my heaviest bow (77# recurve).
The bears are consistant pass thrus. the penetration on pigs is all over the place and no ryme or reason in all the stuff i have personally seen.
in reply to: To sleep, perchance to … sleep? #40982for car camping or “not too far in camping” I have really become a big fan of the small air mattress. comfy, easy to repair, but not as insulated, but very comfy.
When I do use a thermarest pad or foam pad I do a little trick that helps me. you guys might do it already but thought id mention it.
Before I set up my tent I use my foot or a stick and dig out a 3 to 4 inch deep depression with nice tapered edges. It looks like someone took a big heavy beach ball and made a dent in the ground. This is where I want my butt to go when im sleeping. its easier on my back and if I roll onto my side its easier on my hips. Works good and I sleep much better with that depression made.
in reply to: first bear hunt #40966congrats on your bear tag!
Your set up will work perfect as mentioned.
I have only killed a few bears and helped track a few others so im no expert. But so far what I have noticed is if you hit them right they don’t go far at all. But I helped track a couple that were not hit so well and those were tough. The hair soaks up the blood and makes for some tough tracking.
My advise is keep your shots close (no need to set up at 20 yards, 12-15 is better IMO.) And wait for the perfect shot.
Nothing like bear hunting! Congrats again on the tag and good luck on the hunt.
in reply to: German storks, African arrows #40955Jim that is very interesting!
I also wonder what things we think are best, right, safe, etc that future generations will laugh at us for.
My wife thinks in 50 years you will see commercials on tv about plastics exposure just like the asbestos commercials we see now.
Thanks for sharing.
in reply to: Twisted one up #40768Very cool! Id be very interested in that build video as well.
in reply to: Spring fever #40766I cant wait until spring! right now buried under 3 feet of snow and fingers crushed so cant shoot for a couple weeks.
Just seeing you guys shooting without snow gives me hope that someday ours will melt and I might see ground again.
in reply to: Putting a Patina on knives #31668Jim it looks Awesome! And it will be protected from rust with the patina.
Great Job! I love the picture as well!!! Its a great calendar or screensaver!
ausjim wrote: So in an attempt to answer my own question I gave it a go to an old bent Aztec I had laying about. Apologies for burred edges, I just gave it a couple of passes on a file to bring back the shine.
This was my second attempt and I have a couple of lessons learned 😉
My first attempt I left it for 2 hours and I guess it overworked it as it had a matt black finish just like from the factory. But it is hot and humid here, which may have impacted on it. My second attempt (pictured) I had left it for 1 hour.
The second lesson was let it air dry after you unwrap it. The other side of that head is matt because I grabbed a dry paper towel and wiped it, which just cleaned it up. Still, pretty cool for 60 seconds work and a table spoon of vinegar eh?
in reply to: Beginning Arrow Construction #30873broken fingers so sorry this will be a short version.
buy 3 different spine arrow shafts. the spine the charts say is right and one spine weaker and one spine stiffer.
you need a taper tool to taper the shafts. pencil sharpener style or wood chuck taper tool.
before you fletch shoot bare shafts with kocks and field tip only. adjust for spine by cutting shafts. again with my fingers instead of typing all this part do a search on “bare shaft tuning”. this will get you the correct arrow set up.
once bare shaft testing done fletch them up.
buy TJ Conrads book “traditional bowhunters hand book” will teach you tons.
important: when you glue you knocks on your arrow make sure to pay attention to the “rift” and mount knock cross grain to the bowstring. again with broke fingers cant type full detail but look up rift any why its important.
jig wise I like my jojan best. all are good. jojan and bitzenburger are most common used. you need to figure if you are gonna shoot left or right wing and use same feathers.
in reply to: What's in your daypack? #27798Great stuff listed here guys! Keep it coming. I love these kinds of posts.
Pack items in a very personal thing based on locations, durations, weather and skill level.
I think Skill level really determines how much and what types of survival stuff a person brings. There are not a lot of people that can get by comfortably or safely in the woods in the fall over night with just a knife like you see people do on tv. It good to have the right gear with you. As skill levels increase and knowledge increase pack items can decrease.
I love all these types of topics and seeing who carries what and why. Actually I love anthing survival or skills related.
me personally I will never be out in the woods or even out in the city with out a knife, lighter, magnifying glass, compass small feresium rod, flash light with adjustable power (so I can run on candle or low for weeks if need..lol)
These items are on me every day.
when in the woods I always have at minimum 2 crushed flat plastic water bottles (for boiling or just a container), iodine tablets, 2 silver space blankets, 50 foot paracord, good fixed blade knife, 3 lighters, cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly, extra compass, extra flashlight battery, big feresium rod, some Toilet paper and 10 feet duck tape.
That is my minimum that is always in my pack.
all this stuff is small enough to fit into a quart zip lock bag and weighs very little. But there is no condition or location that I have yet been in that this would not make life comfortable and safe.
Forager wrote: [quote=jasonsamko]Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
It’s called “chaga”, and yes it works great for tinder. However, it works FAR better as a tea and for your health (google some of the reports and attributes). Use it that way, and you’ll be better off.
I think you are reffering to “true fungus” the black build ups at damage spots on the tree.
This false fungus or tinder fungus is a type of hoof fungus.
The True fungus grows on live birch trees. the False fungus im talking about is usually only on dead brich trees.
Both are great fire tinders! Just one more way the birch tree is a good resource.
Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
in reply to: Awesome EFOC Idea Im working on #22344Archer38 wrote: Great Idea !! Just a thought though, a number 8,32 bolt will thread into your insert.You could cut the head off one and use it to thread the two inserts together.
Might make a more solid connection than the nail.
I wish mine were threaded thru. My inserts just have a tiny hole in the bottom the same size as the nail.
in reply to: Awesome EFOC Idea Im working on #21021Smithhammer wrote: Looks pretty good, Jason. Let us know how they shoot!
Out of curiosity – how are you fletching those?
Have shot about 30 arrows and the goldtips seem to be the best and flying very well bare shaft. so far its looking good.
I will probably fletch them with 3 5″ high back parabolic (i buy 5.5 highback and cut them off at about 5 inches). I know with high foc you dont need that much fletching but i really like seeing that big ball of color heading to my target. they really let me see where i hit even in low light. So i will probably stay with those for feathers.
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