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in reply to: Kids Bowfishing At night #19259
colmike wrote: Jason
I’m still laughing–what a great evening. When the inevitable happens try:
Pointing at the fire pit and say start the fire (without your son’s assistance).
Of course the 12bore cradled in your arms may help.:twisted:
Good luck, but I think you and the Mrs. have already inculcated appropriate values in the young ones. Now you just have to sit back and wait.:D
Semper Fi
Mike
Bella already made it clear that she would never date a guy that can’t make a fire…lol in her own words “he can play a Xbox on rainy days but if the sun is out he better want to be outside or he is gone!”
in reply to: Kids Bowfishing At night #18038[quote=Doc Nock]Only one observation, Son…I’m going to pray for you if Bella is only 11 yrs old! Good grief! Good thing you shave your head or you’d be pullin out your hairs in a few years when boys come a callin! 🙄
quote]
I already have my speach ready for when the boys come to the door. It involves a cigar cutter, and im not talking about fingers. Might even be some mention of pliers and fingernails as well. water boarding come to mind a bit too.
in reply to: Survival training #16396Good on ya for haveing an interest and taking the course! Survival, fire, shelter, water, and woodsmanship have become lost skills only taked about as “things our grandparents did”.
Just last night I met a buddy at the boat launch to go night bowfishing. I was changing out of shorts into jeans and emptied my pockets on the tailgate of my truck. He looked at my pile of a izula knive, 2 lighters, a mini ferisoum rod, swiss tech tool and good flashlight on my key ring and 4 rubberbands around my wallet. He shook his head and said you carry that crap everyday? I said “yep and i know what to do with them”. He said why lighters you dont smoke? I said have you ever made a fire by bowdrill or hand drill? he said no. I said ” I have and if you ever do it sucessfully you too would always carry 2 lighters!”
Point being the more you know the less you need but the better choices you make.
My family (kids and wife included) make a point each week all summer long to learn a new skill and master it. Its good fun quality family time and very rewarding.
When we have guests over and I tell my 9 year old go start a bon fire and I had him a ferisoum rod and a pocket knife, the guest always follow him in total silence wondering if this is possible. 5 minutes later my son has a tinder bundle, 5 piles of different size sticks, and sparks flying. Thier jaws drop to teh ground. They always ask him “how many fires have you made like this? his favorite reply is “this is my first one…..today”.
Im glad he is proud of the skills he is learning. Hopefully he will pass them on to his kids the same way.
in reply to: EFOC high wind video #48256David Petersen wrote: I was only going to ask Jason if he’s considered going to a more streamlined broadhead? Seems a shame to come so far with Ed’s advice and see it’s positive results, yet skip over broadhead MA … but then here comes a hen turkey to the bird feeder. Here’s a pic and she’s still there … with two bird dogs napping just on the other side of the little office shed. I need another beer so the turkey best feed fast.
Wish I had that view from my office!
I have over 100 hundred of the original Magnus 1 2 blade heads. Been using them for 20 years. Love them. I have a lot of confidence in them. But onthe same note there was not as many options for heavy good heads 20 years ago when i started shooting them. When its time to buy more heads I’m keeping my options open to experiement a bit. I have been looking really hard at Tuff heads But it will be 2 more years before i shoot these all up.
in reply to: EFOC high wind video #47669Smithhammer wrote:
you said you experimented with 2-1/4″ previously – was that 3 or 4-fletch?
my 2 1/4 were 3 fletch. And since they were not cut at 1/2 inch tall they did matt down when wet and my fat 1.5 magnus head had too much influence for my liking. The other issue i think that matters for me is my short arrow. Everything i read about Efoc talks about the length of the rear arm. The longer the arm the better stability. my rear arm (shaft) is much shorter than most.
I will be experimenting with smaller fletching but only to a point that i retain 100% confidence in all conditions. I also really like seeing that twirling ball of feathers going toward my target. It is easy to follow and easy to see where i hit. So I have to do more testing. I do Trust everything written about aa fletching and tubers but not sure if I am going to make it that far. Just have to see what the testing shows. Another thing I have is officially the worst release known to man! I constantly have to pay close attention to my anchor hand or i see it in the testing i did with the shorter feathers. That is something I also have to take into consideration. The point weight saves me when i realease bad on a bareshaft. But when i release bad with a broadhead and the 2.25 feathers i saw it in the flight.
Right now im shooting 4.25 x 3 helical fletched. Im about 70% happy with that and know there is room to play. Just have not had the time to devote to testing. But i will this summer.
in reply to: EFOC high wind video #47656Steve Graf wrote: What is the weight of the bow used to shoot the arrows?
35/55 shafts with that much FOC would be really weak. Just wondering what bow you were shooting. Arrow’s seemed pretty fast…
Good shootin’ too!
I hear from people all the time that a 3555 set up like this wont fly out of my 63# longbow. Literally over a hundred people have said that to me, even when i was stuffing them with rope.
Here is how it works. I shoot a 63#@26 robertson longbow and I draw between 25 and 25.5 inches (im only 5’6″). So im shooting about 60-61#s. my shafts are at 26.5 throat of nock to cut off. My double insert set up im shooting makes the front 3″ of shaft non flexing so for spine calculations my shaft is really only 23.5″. (insert is 1.5″ and i have 2 of them butted together in the shaft). So my arrow is 695 grains, with a 145 grain point, 100 grain steel adaptor, and 2 brass 100 grain inserts.
Im very very obsessive with bareshaft tuning and always shoot thru paper a couple times a year.
When i wanted to try efoc i bought 2 other shafts (400 and 340) so i hade my 3555, an 5575 and a beman 340. I loaded the tips like i said and started testing the bare shafts. Shoot, cut on arrow saw from back of shaft, shoot again, repeat. The 35555 was the one that shot the best. I tested with bareshafts and 3 fletched for a week then shot thru paper. Only a slight rip, knock high. Happy.
Interesting note: when i shot bareshaft tested with my quiver off and no silencers on the string the 5575s tested better and the 35555 flew weak. The strap on quiver (northern) and the silencers take enough energy from the bow that it changed almost one spine size. But since I always shoot with a quiver and silencers I tuned that way.
So my situation and short draw makes it unique and as soon as i say i shoot a 3555 out of 60# bow i always instantly get that “deer in the headlights look” from everyone. But it works for me.
in reply to: EFOC high wind video #45789Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: Great video, Jason. However, I do have to agree with Doc Nock (Ouch, that hurts), if you will try some smaller fletching you won’t get nearly as much flaying around of the arrows in a high wind. The larger fletching is just giving the wind more surface area to act on.
On an UEFOC arrow like you have there, there is just no way you need anything close to the amount of fletching you are using, regardless of the broadhead used. If those UEFOC arrows are tuned well all the fletching you need is enough to overcome the broadhead’s windsheer. Anything more than that is actually hurting your arrow’s performance.
I spent a lot of time experimenting with fletching for the EFOC and Ultra-EFOC arrows. I think if you will give the A&A pattern fletching a try on that arrow setup, and test it in the wind, you might just fall in love with their strange looks.
Ed
Yeah Dave (Doc Nock) has been talking to me alot about the smaller fletching and explaining all your teachings on it. I have read a lot of your articles and studies. Im “in route” to the smaller fletching but need more testing with the broadheads i shoot (magnus I 1.5″ wide). I have the arrows bareshaft adn paper tuned to an almost perfect hole and love how they fly. with the broadheads i can go all the way down to 2.5 inch and still get good flight, but when they get wet and matted down the 2.5 or the 3in get a little too squirrely for my liking. right now im using a 4in feather made froma 5.5 high back and cutting it at 4 inches and not useing the back of the feather. Then i rounded the back with scissors. Still in the experimental phase and need more testing to see how small i can go. But for where i hunt (thick stuff not alot of wind) i need the good flight when wet and matted more than the high wind flight. The efoc is flawless and your arrow philosophy is amazing. My battle now seems to be having less feather but enough feather to use my big broadheads in the rain. I got a whole summer to figure it out and play.
I have always believed in heavy arrows and have been stuffing rope in all my shafts for almost 15 years to get the weight. I have always had about 20-23% foc on all my arrows as well. But this is my first time this high in the foc range. So far Im loving it. the proof will come with the game in the freezer. And i have no doubt the results will be exactly as im hoping. Thanks Ed, for all your studies and dedication to everything you do.
I am one of those firm believers in high foc. But I also have a hard time convincing myself that little feathers are the way to go. I have read everything there is about why they are better and im slowly trying smaller and smaller. Right now im at 30% foc with a 4.25 cross between aa and parabolic feather but still taller than the 1/2 inch suggested and I still use a helical fletch.
Have any of you tried a shorter length but taller feather?
I can get good broadhead flight with a big 1.5 wide magnus and 3 3inch soaking wet matted down feathers so I know I can get flight with smaller. but I like seeing the fletching in flight spinning to the target.
I totally understand that im giving up efficiency that I have proven I can get back by using smaller feathers but I cant / don’t want to give up that golf ball size ball of spinning fletching going to the target. Wonder if shorter but taller feathers would rob more efficiency or be better?
I Might need to do more testing and see.
in reply to: Winter Critter Damage? #60014Dont have too many rabbits up here but I worry about the deer. They have been buried in deep snow since early December here. Still have a foot and a half everywhere and it was the coldest winter ever. Hopefully the winter kill won’t be as bad as I’m expecting.
in reply to: FEATHER LENGTH #60009As Mike said you will get lots of opinions on this.
Good news is there is no wrong answer.
Lots of guys shoot 5.5 inch high back, lots shoot 5 in, 4 in, 3 in, some even 2in. Some shoot 3 feathers others shoot 4.
Endless options.
Imo, fletching is designed to prevent the broadhead from steering. If your arrows are tuned good fletching is only needed for broadheads. I shot 5.5 high back for over 20 years and loved them, still do! Now I’m playing with 4.25 high bac and I like them.
The key is to find the feather that gives you the best arrow flight in all hunting conditions with your broadheads. Wet, wind, etc. This can only be found by testing and personal experience.
So my advise if your not yet experienced in tuning and building arrows I would go with big feathers. Once you are at a point where you want to play with arrows, foc, testing etc then play away and find what you like best.
The best feather is the one you get the best flight from with broadheads. Until you test and find that lean to the bigger feather side of the options.
in reply to: cant hardly take it!! #58825I see this is your first post.
Welcome to the forum! Great people here, Great advise and stories. You will love it here.
I feel the same way. We are finally down to about 1.5 feet and its setting up enough that I have been shooting a lot outside. spent the last couple months shooting in my garage and drive way.
Wont be long and grass will be up and spring will finally be here.
Yesterday I got the spring bug and decided I was going to get my bowfishing boat out and start working on it. Got stuck 4 times trying to get it from my storage garage to my main garage. took 3 hours to get it 300 feet…lol but I made it. Spring better get here quick, im getting over anxious!
in reply to: Our Legacy #58241Love it. We need more of these types of videos.
You should get that on tv stations so the world can see it.
Our tradition needs these kinds of videos out there.
Seriously! I dont have a facebook but if you do you should put it on there and have everyone share it to everyone else.
That way all of thier non hunting friends will see it and see the true meaning of what so beautiful about being outdoors.
in reply to: Time for another chuckle!! #56442Now that’s funny!
in reply to: numb finger #56347I would go see a doctor about the numbness lasting over a week. Might be some nerve damage. A doc could tell you what happen so you can avoid or change something so it doesn’t happen again.
Sore fingers occasionally happen with long practice sessions. But not week long numbness.
What glove are you using? Some are pretty thin. You might be better off with a thicker glove or tab.
But as said above…..don’t shoot until you get your finger checked out.
in reply to: brace height problems? #56339Yep you are correct in you brace measuring procedure.
On almost any bow a lower brace is more likely to hit your arm.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Glad to hear.
How you hold your bow arm, how you rotate you bow arm, how you grip the bow, how you release, all can contribute to string slapping the arm. Its not something that is immediately figured out or there would not be a market for arm guard but would be sold as clothing guards for hunting in bulky clothing.
So don’t sweat it if you hit you are evey once in a while. Also once you hit yout arm hard it swells up and you will most likely hit it a ton during that session. Keep that in mind when you get a good smack and then keep getting hit over and over…swelling plays a big part.
Just know that as you come in to your shooting style and it all falls into place so will the arm smack.
As for the serving wear. If it gets bad it can easily be relaxed yourself or a shop will do it for about 3 bucks or so.
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