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in reply to: ask the experts #52730
M wrote: ok so if I get good flight with field tips and wild flight with big broadheads how do you get the big broadheads to fly true?
The solution is to go back to square one and tune your bow (bare shaft or paper; both work). If your setup is tuned properly, sans serious inconsistencies in shot execution, wind planing should be a nonissue.
in reply to: Back tension or shoulder power? #50322Back tension isn’t a compound bow thing or a target shooter thing; it’s an archery thing. There are a lot of fine details in shooting that separate traditional bowhunters from target archers and compound archers, but back tension isn’t one of them.
in reply to: Which Broadhead ? #50313Zwickeys would be an excellent choice. I hunted with both Eskimos and Deltas for years and had nothing but excellent results. They sharpen easily, mount true, fly great, and are extremely durable.
Zwickey has been making broadheads for about 70 years. That track record more than speaks for itself.
in reply to: hog hunting ranches. #50306Hog “hunting” operations run the gambit from high-fence tame pigs (like seen in “non-hog” states like Illinois) to free range wild animals. Make sure you ask a lot of questions in advance to ensure that the ranch meets your desires.
There are no doubt countless excellent hog hunting services and ranches out there, but the only first-hand experience I have is with 7th Age Bowhunting, and they are 100% free range wild hogs (no high fences anywhere at any time).
in reply to: Waterproofing Fletching #42610Camp Dry is a silicone spray. It has a slight odor at first, but that quickly goes away.
in reply to: Paper and Bare shaft tuning? Different results? #41328Patrick wrote: Hmmm…I’ve only paper tested. I’ve never understood how bare-shaft tuning is better. My concern with bare-shaft tuning has always been with the target medium. If I shoot into a target, will not the arrow follow the path of least resistance, thereby skewing the results? I’m probably asking a question that’s been answered, and I’m admitting ignorance. Could someone direct me to the info…pretty please?
Patrick,
I use both paper tuning and bare shaft tuning. What I’ve noticed is that when I paper tune, my bare shafts fly great, and when I bare shaft tune, my fletched shafts shoot bullet holes through paper—two roads, one destination.
The problem most people have with paper tuning is that they either start out at the wrong distance from the paper, or only shoot from a single distance. If you start out too far away, the arrow could already be correcting before it hits the paper. If you only shoot from one distance, you could be shooting through the paper between oscillations.
Start out about four to six feet from the paper, tune accordingly, back up a few feet and repeat. When you’re properly tuned, your arrows will tear bullet holes from any distance. Your bare shafts should also fly straight.
For detailed tuning instructions, you can download the Easton Tuning Guide here:
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
Ed is correct that, when bare shaft tuning, you should ignore the nock kick itself and look at the point of impact. If you get 20 yards or so away from your backstop, the nock kick out of the bow will cause the bare shaft to plane off line. If the nock kicks to the left out of the bow, the shaft will fly through the air with the tip pointed slightly to the right, causing the shaft to plane in that direction.
Both tuning methods will work just fine if done properly. Once you are correctly tuned, both methods should yield identical results. If they don’t, your tuning may not be as good as you think. That’s why I always use one method as a double check of the other.
in reply to: Waterproofing Fletching #37456Camp Dry spray works extremely well for waterproofing feathers.
in reply to: Solid Bone Hits and Recovery Distances (?) #36218Steve,
My only experience with shoulders and archery equipment pertains to offside hits. I was taught to stay away from entrance side shoulder blades, and doing so has served me well. That being said, in every instance, I’ve broken trough those offside bones and gotten exit wounds.
Most deer I’ve shot either didn’t know they were hit, or trotted a short distance and fell over. Whenever I’ve hit hard bone (again, exit wound side) the animal ran off like a scalded ape. My average recovery distance on double-lung shot deer with 2-blade heads when no heavy bone was impacted is less than 50 yards. On deer where I’ve exited through heavy bone, my recovery distance is over 100 yards.
in reply to: 4 wheelers, Dave Peterson #35907Dave, Hiram et al,
Thanks for the replies. Since ATV abuse (illegal or otherwise) isn’t a problem where I hunt, it isn’t an issue with which I’m familiar. One of the nice things about forums such as these is that they allow people to gain perspective on things outside their experience.
Steertalker wrote:
If your setup is already tuned, yet your bare shaft groups are a few feet wide at twenty yards, I would highly suggest using large fletching.
Hmmm…if you’re bare shafts are impactiing a few feet wide at 20 yds then, in my humble opinion, you’re set-up is far from being tuned. Don’t you mean inches?????
Brett
Not at all. If your bare shaft group is, say, three feet across, yet centered with your fletched shafts, it’s not a tuning issue. Even an out-of-tune bow will shoot tight bare shaft groups provided the archer is consistent with his shot execution.
A lot of things will cause large bare shaft groups: plucking the string, torquing or heeling the grip, inconsistent draw length to name a few. A setup can be perfectly tuned, but the bare shafts will only fly as consistently as the archer can execute his shots. That is why you have to tune for the average.
The location of bare shaft groups relative to fletched shafts is a result of tuning. The size of those bare shaft groups is a function of the shooter’s consistency, or lack thereof.
This thread is a great idea.
I often hear or read where people say you can’t paper tune if you don’t use a mechanical release, or that you must have perfectly consistent form to use bare shaft tuning. Both statements are incorrect. People were paper tuning bows well before mechanical releases were the norm, and bare shaft tuning was around long before Allen ever went to the hardware store.
With either method, the further you are from perfectly consistent in your shot execution, the more shooting you will require during tuning. What you have to do is tune to the average. Let’s take bare shaft tuning for example.
Shooting bare shafts does two things: it shows you how out of tune you are, and exaggerates inconsistencies in your shooting. Without fletching to correct your arrow flight, what you get with bare shafts is raw data, so to speak. This is a good thing, even though it can be a bit intimidating.
When I bare shaft tune, I like to use colored golf tees to mark where my fletched and bare shafts impact. By doing this, I can shoot two or three fletched and bare shafts multiple times and still see a large group of shots on my backstop. This makes it much easier to spot patterns in where my bare shafts and fletched arrows impact, and make the necessary changes to bring those groups together.
For someone with very consistent shot execution, a small number of shots may suffice to detect a pattern. Otherwise, it may take a dozen or more of both fletched and bare shafts to pick out the average and tune accordingly.
Another thing that’s nice about shooting bare shafts is that it can give you an idea of how much fletching to use on your arrows. If your setup is already tuned, yet your bare shaft groups are a few feet wide at twenty yards, I would highly suggest using large fletching. You may need the extra fletching to overpower the steering tendencies of a broadhead after an inconsistently executed shot.
If on the other hand your bare shaft groups are tight at twenty yards, you could probably get away with smaller fletching since there will be less imperfection in your shot execution for which to compensate.
Of course, a lot of practicing with broadheads will also tell you if your fletching is too small. But shooting bare shafts can put you on the right road from the start and save you a lot of time stripping and refletching arrows.
in reply to: 4 wheelers, Dave Peterson #34118Hiram,
Believe me, we totally agree with regard to illegal ATV use. If someone is illegally taking their ATV (or truck for that matter) somewhere it shouldn’t be, they should lose that particular piece of equipment. My question was regarding the post about the difference between someone legally driving their truck somewhere versus someone else using an ATV to go to that same location. It seems like a “six of one, half-dozen of the other” sort of thing to me.
If someone is using an ATV illegally (or, again, a truck), then that’s one issue. But if they are using them within the law, then to me, that’s an entirely different discussion.
in reply to: skeletons in your closet #33852Johnny,
Steve is correct. There is no “void” above the lungs and below the spine.
in reply to: 4 wheelers, Dave Peterson #32931I agree with the farm implement label. I have friends who own hunting land and ATVs, and that’s exactly how we use them—tilling ground, removing fallen trees etc. We also use them to extract the occasional dead deer, but honestly, I can’t understand how anyone could hunt from one. Do these guys actually even shoot anything, because deer and turkeys around here run like heck when they hear or see one coming?
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