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in reply to: Arrow Selection #44006
Aeronut wrote:
Wow. I was selling hardwood shafts waaaayyy to cheap. I don’t know what kind of wood shafts you were shooting but I have never broken a Hickory shaft.Dennis
A few years ago I was stump shooting with Bob Mayo (Ace Archery Tackle owner). He shoots mid-70s poundage. I thought my arrows were tough until I watched what he slammed his hickory shafts into. I’ve still never seen a wood arrow as tough as his. To be honest, I’d be hard pressed to think of a tougher shaft at all — wood, carbon, or aluminum — and I used to shoot 2419s.
in reply to: what bow for long draw length #39642I too have a 32” draw length, and while finding a 62” recurve that works well at that draw length can be tricky, here is a short list of currently available ones with which I’ve had a lot of first hand experience.
Chek-Mate Hunter II
Bob Lee T/D Recurve
Palmer
Black Widow SA series (I think it’s now called PSA or something like that)
TradTech Titan (with long ILF limbs, it’s 62”)
DAS
Fox High Sierrain reply to: Anyone own a Shakespeare? #11558A lot of the later Shakespear bows were Root designs brought on board after they bought Root Archery sometime in the mid or late 60s. For example, the Shakespear Necedah was a Root Brush-Master; the Ocala was a Game-Master.
They were very good bows, although not quite a nice as the original Root designs.
in reply to: Intentional Shoulder Shot #10108Jesse,
Heck, I totally misread your post. Sorry about that. You were clear; I just goofed it. I’m going to blame it on the decaf. 😳
in reply to: For those of you that hunt with wood arrows #9947I have to agree with Don, and this coming from someone who primarily shoots carbon arrows (which probably has more to do with not being able to reasonably find wood shafts that accommodate my 32” draw length). Folks were killing all sorts of big game for a long time when wood arrows were all they had. Whether or not they’re suitable for bowhunting use isn’t even debatable.
in reply to: Intentional Shoulder Shot #9944Jesse,
As far as I’m aware, the only time that the majority of the lungs are behind the shoulder blade would be on a downward quartering toward angle.
in reply to: Target Panic #9593Hiram,
I don’t exclusively use a clicker in the traditional sense. Yes, the overwhelming percentage of my practice involves allowing the clicker to trigger my release—what Jay Kidwell would call a conditioned response. Clickers are to finger shooters what back tension releases are to release shooters, which is probably a discussion for another venue.
Unfortunately, I don’t feel comfortable giving up split second control over the timing of my release in bowhunting situations. Static targets allow us a long window of timing for releasing the arrow; animals generally don’t.
For that reason, I don’t allow the clicker to trigger my release when I’m bowhunting. The clicker is still on my bow limb (call it my security blanket J), but if I use it at all when shooting an animal, it’s simply a draw check. To be honest, I don’t even have a clicker on my longbow; only my recurves. Shooting with a clicker gives me the control to shoot without one, which is where bowhunting comes into play.
Just as a point of clarity, I never said I don’t have TP anymore. To be honest, I think the term “cure” as it relates to TP is a bit misleading. I’ve read a lot of material on the subject from top archery coaches, and all of them say a person can’t really cure TP, per se, but merely control it. That’s probably why Jay Kidwell stresses the long-term use of his drills for controlling TP—if a person thinks he’s cured and stops working to control it, TP will likely creep back.
And that’s exactly what a clicker does for me (as it has done for others) that various shooting drills and blank bale didn’t. It allows me to control my TP. It allows me the control to shoot without it, especially while bowhunting.
in reply to: Target Panic #9433Rocks wrote: Just wondering about the figure eight… why? which way.. down over and up or up over etc, never heard of this before…
If I recall correctly from Jay’s book, the reason for the figure eight is to ingrain into your mind that you don’t have to release as soon as your aim reaches the target. By repeatedly getting on and off target from different directions, you gain control over that situation. It’s the same theory behind the “draw-anchor-aim-let down” drill. This is very effective for some people, but not for everyone (myself for example).
The thing about target panic is that it’s not the same for everyone, so there’s no one-size-fits-all cure. Target panic is somewhat like automobile problems. If you simply scratch your paint, you can call a body shop and they can tell you how to fix it; get some touch up paint and buffing compound—very cut and dry.
But if you turn your key and your car won’t start, the diagnosis isn’t so automatic. You may need a new ignition switch, battery, alternator, or starter. You may have even seized your engine entirely. Telling someone that such-n-such will definitely cure his target panic is a bit like telling a person that his car will start if he replaces the battery. If the battery is the problem, replacing it will work. But if his starter is fried, he can replace his battery a hundred times and his car still isn’t going to start.
If we could crack open our skulls and poke around in our brains like we do automobile engines, target panic would be easy to fix. Unfortunately we don’t have that luxury, so we have to fix things like target panic through trial and error. Bottom line: find a “cure” and give it an honest try. If it doesn’t work for you, find another remedy and see if it yields sufficient results. Keep trying different ideas and hopefully you’ll find something that will take care of the problem.
in reply to: Intentional Shoulder Shot #8785Sapcut wrote: “There’s a difference between making a bad shot and taking a bad shot. One is accidental; the other is irresponsible.”
I agree, but…
The light bow/arrow camp is gonna have real problems either way. Problems that most choose to ignore.The heavy bow/arrow setup is not gonna have problems either way. That.. we all have great confidence in. And great confidence has alot to do with great shot placement among a host of other things.
Yes, confidence is key. But if someone thinks their heavy bow/arrow is going to guarantee that they’re “not going to have problems either way,” well, here’s to wishful thinking. There’s nothing wrong with overkill in equipment, but it should never be a substitute for common sense and proper judgement.
in reply to: Intentional Shoulder Shot #8674M wrote: With a good EFOC setup and a single bevel BH would anyone recommend taking a shoulder shot on whitetail deer on purpose?
Assuming you’re not trying to finish off an already wounded deer, absolutely not. There’s a difference between making a bad shot and taking a bad shot. One is accidental; the other is irresponsible.
in reply to: Sounds of a Whitetail #7691It was probably the tail end of a snort wheeze call.
in reply to: How much bow and arrow for hogs? #63978Patrick wrote: Kingwouldbe is saying use as much as you can handle AS OPPOSED TO as little as you can get away with. Very simple and makes complete sense.
Patrick,
Perhaps I have misinterpreted David’s posts. I was under the impression that he has been stating that 45# was insufficient in and of itself, and should not be used. If I was mistaken, I hope he corrects me.
That being said, I agree with using as much poundage as you can handle; key words being “as you can handle.” If the original poster stated that he could handle 55# just fine, but wanted to know if he should hunt with 45# because he wanted to see how little he could get away with, my reply would have been to stick with 55#. If he has no problem shooting the higher poundage, it’s a proverbial free lunch—the extra poundage creates no risk to offset whatever benefit it may yield, real or perceived.
But that’s not what he posted. Here is his quote:
snuffornot wrote: Thanks Hiram,
I’m shooting 45# right now. I was having difficulty with my usual 55# bow so I dropped back in poundage and am shooting much better now.So with that, the discussion becomes about acknowledging what actually is sufficient poundage and then weighing the risks and rewards of anything above that point. There are decades of historical data to prove that 45# is sufficient for the species he is pursuing. And since he is having difficulty handling 55#, I view the question as that of shooting accurately with sufficient poundage versus hunting with the inaccuracy and lack of control that comes from being overbowed.
in reply to: Going to switch to 4 fletch #63608butts wrote: My Trad shop told me to try the 4″ and it would also increase my FOC.
There’s theory and then there’s reality. 😉
I’ve read that theory numerous times recently, so I decided to check some numbers. On my digital scale, four 4″ parabolic feathers weigh a total of 12 grains. Four 5″ parabolic feathers weigh a total of 17 grains. That’s only a five-grain weight difference. Assuming one could even measure the FOC difference created by five grains, I highly doubt it would even be one tenth of one percent — a complete non-issue.
I can’t think of any possible scenario where that FOC increase would make any difference at all. But I can think of numerous instances where the added stability of a little more fletching could mean the difference between good arrow flight or not (bad release, bowstring hits your sleeve, short drawing etc.).
Does that mean we should all be shooting flu flu arrows at deer? Of course not. As with most choices of this nature, it’s all about finding an acceptable balance between risk and reward. And decreasing fletching size in the name of increased FOC seems like creating a real possible risk for no tangible reward.
By the way, I primarily shoot four 4″ feathers. They work great for me.
in reply to: Gun Season with a Bow? #62911No, I usually hunt deer from a treestand…especially when I’m bowhunting during a gun season.
in reply to: How much bow and arrow for hogs? #62012Kingwouldbe,
“Both Fred Bead and Howard Hill said PENETRATIONIS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.( of course assuming you can hit what your shooting at )
They both understood that if my broadhead does not make it into the vitals you cant kill it.”
I have a tremendous amout of respect for both Fred Bear and Howard Hill, but let’s be honest about something. They took some rather creative routes to “make it into the vitals.” I’m not judging them for it — things should always be viewed in their historical context and never judged by the ethics of another timeframe.
If I knew a bowhunter today who was taking 180-yard shots at elk, 60-yard frontal lob shots at sheep, neck shots at bears, or going for the old Texas heart shot, their bow weight would not be the first topic that we would discuss.
As an afterthought: If I’m not mistaken, Howard Hill also said that 40# bows were more than sufficient for deer-sized animals. 😉
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