[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Whoa! Troublesome. #49805

Steve Graf is absolutely correct. This is due to how a digital camera captures a photo. Your camera’s sensor is made up of individual pixels that are recorded one at a time, very rapidly. Unlike a photograph taken with film, a digital photo is not all recorded at the exact same instant.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Stone Arrowheads #41893

I’ve only ever found one in my life, ironically enough while I was looking for a small game arrow that missed a squirrel.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: two or three blade broadhead for hog hunt? #40580

scotty95 wrote: …the vpas are a little more consistent for me.

There’s your answer. 😉

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: mount and align broadheads: a how to vid #33075

Ptaylor wrote: [quote=Steve Graf]That is snazzy! Can’t see paying what they ask for the store bought version…

But then I just spin the arrows in my palm (field points) or on the work bench (broad heads) and that tells me what I need to know.

First thing I do after mounting the head is wipe off the excess glue before it has time to cool. Then check the straightness, then dip the point in water.

Why do you dip it in water?

The water cools the glue and locks the head in place.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: The Bow that Surprised You #32249

I bought a Thunderstick MOAB at a bowhunting organization banquet several years ago. I was genuinely surprised by its speed and stability. In the end, I still prefer recurves, so after a few years I sold it to someone else.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: mount and align broadheads: a how to vid #32246

You can make a spin tester with a scrap piece of wood and four nails. Drive two nails corssing each other (to form a pair of Xs) in each end of the wood. Set your arrow on the crossed nails and spin. Nothing to it.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Too much, not enough, had enough #26553

Doc Nock wrote: I choose what weapon to hunt with. I choose what way to hunt. I choose where to go and how to get my critter out if lucky. I am fastidious about handling my game, to the point I will not go where I am unsure I can care for the meat, even though success often eludes me for years at a time… to waste a death (TO ME) would be sacrilege.

alas, nobody, but NOBODY makes those decisions for me and until such time that freedom is lost, I like to “live and let live and folks find their own path…” I’ll encourage… even comment but will share why I would suggest a different approach, then let the hearer make their own choice.

Very well said!

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: New guy looking for advice #17657

DJ,

You are exactly, perfectly on the right track…light draw weight to learn form and easy to maintain equipment. The fewer variables you work on at a time the better your progress will come. I also agree with the suggestion to go with the Journey over the Sage due to your draw length…and this from a guy who draws 32”.

As far as carbon arrows are concerned, Big Jim’s Bow Company (Google them) sells Gold Tip blemished shafts very cheap. From what I’m told they have cosmetic flaws in the finish but are otherwise of the same tolerances as their regular shafts. For light draw weight I would suggest the 1535 spine, which equated to a .600.

Leave them full length, and as you progress, tune with the tip weight as needed. There’s no sense in trying to fine tune when you’re first starting out, since your form will develop as you go. Just get them flying reasonably straight and work on form. Accuracy comes second.

With respect to form, don’t think that what you know from shooting compounds does not apply. Form is form, archery is archery. The fundamentals don’t change just because there are no wheels on your limbs. There are tons of videos on YouTube that are worth watching. Anything by Jimmy Blackmon is top quality. I’d also suggest getting Masters of the Barebow, Volumes 2 and 3. They cover different aiming styles and then go into shot mechanics. Great stuff.

Most of all, enjoy yourself.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Arrow Weight for Hunting #63946

Letitgo,

I agree with Smithhammer regarding your arrow weight being in the normal range. By “deer” I assume you mean whitetails. Truthfully, they are on the easy side of medium/large game with respect to penetration. If you put your arrow where it belongs, there just isn’t much there to stop it.

For what it’s worth, my paternal grandfather hunted for decades with a recurve pulling 42# at his 26″ draw length. His arrows weighed around the same weight as yours with three-blade heads and it was very, very rare when he didn’t have a total pass through on Midwestern whitetails. I grew up eating a lot of venison on account of that setup.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Turkey Arras #56432

cpbiv wrote: Well, seeing as how it’s March 1st and it was almost 50 degrees here in NE Tennessee, the turkey fever just got turned up a notch. I really got fired up when I saw a gobbler strutting last week in the snow. Anyway, does everyone use the same arrows they use for deer, elk, etc. for turkeys? I’m thinking of building a few lighter shafts with less weight up front for birds to inhibit penetration. Just wondering everyone’s thoughts on this.

Two things:

First, I shoot the exact same arrows for turkey hunting I use for any medium or large game. There is no substitute for accuracy, and I have a lot of experience and confidence with my present setup.

Second, I can’t quite say I’ve ever understood the rationale behind wanting to inhibit broadhead penetration on an animal. Broadheads kill by cutting, and you can’t cut what you don’t penetrate. I want my arrows in one side and out the other, which is exactly what has happened on every turkey I’ve shot.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Handle on a Samick Sage #51714

Hands down, the best thing I’ve found is Tourna Grip. It’s a thin tennis racket tape that is very inexpensive, available at pretty much every sporting goods sotre, and last a long time. The bad thing? It only comes in one color. The good thing? It works extremely well.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: moderm recurve #33984

grumpy wrote: Just how big IS that freezer??

BTW forgot where you are.

We have a large chest freezer. It’ll hold a moose. 😀

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: moderm recurve #32820

I remember those recurves. The Cougar and Lynx were very nice bows and are somewhat sought after these days. Enjoy yours.

With respect to your question, no, there is no disadvantage to shooting one of those without sights and a stabilizer. The truth is any recurve can be shot with or without those accessories. How you choose to shoot it is up to you.

A couple years ago I decided I wanted a slightly longer hunting recurve, so I bought an old Sky Conquest riser (think Olympic recurve riser) from a friend of mine in California. He used it to win the USA Archery National Field Championship the previous year. I put some heavier limbs on it, slid on some camo covering and took it to the woods. Last season I put three deer in the freezer with it.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: The Endless Loop #20705

dwcphoto wrote: One question I have is adjusting the brace height with an endless loop. Do you still add in a few twists as needed? Thanks, dwc

Yes, both types of strings are adjusted the exact same way.

[Jason Wesbrock]

in reply to: Strings for old bows #18691

The stress is actually from the lack of “give” in the new materials.

[Author]

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